Benefits to CAI - Cold Air Intake? - Page 2 - Fuelly Forums

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Old 07-02-2007, 05:26 AM   #11
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Insulating the OE airbox is a good idea. What I'm actually planning to do is replace stock air filter with a cone style, left inside the OE airbox....then insulate the entire thing.

Very similar to http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/FIPK.html
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Old 07-02-2007, 10:22 AM   #12
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Originally Posted by Raccoonjoe View Post
Insulating the OE airbox is a good idea. What I'm actually planning to do is replace stock air filter with a cone style, left inside the OE airbox....then insulate the entire thing.

Very similar to http://www.jeep4.0performance.4mg.com/FIPK.html
I did something similar on the TJ and noticed zippo change in FE. Power did improve about 2k though
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:48 PM   #13
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...so I won't speculate on any changes...but...
Alright, I told myself I wouldn't do this and I know this totally non-scientific...but my last 2 fill-ups since partially insulating the box have averaged @ 24.5mpg. Also, the 'butt-dyno' has indicated a moderate improvement in throttle response, even after sitting in traffic on a 90f deg. day(That's never happened before!).
So, I've decided to take it a step further. I just ordered another Thermo-Tec heat barrier, but this time I bought a 12"x24" sheet which should be enough to completely cover the box and still have some left over to do the Wife's ride. I also ordered a 1.5"x15' roll of heat barrier tape so I can wrap up the air tube between the airbox & MAF sensor.
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Old 07-03-2007, 01:59 PM   #14
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SL8Brick, neat to read what you've been doing.
My airbox has a different mod - I cut out most of the front so the air blows straight in through the (non functional) ac condenser. Gives off a nice loud moan when you step on the gas; apparently the oem intake snorkel has a muffler type function for intake sound. In addition to it's restrictive effects since it's only about 1.75 inch diam.

Somewhere here on GasSavers I read that optimum IAT is 60-80 deg. F. That's fine for spring-summer, however I'm concerned that any bricks with the airbox t'stat removed are pulling in very raw air in winter. I just don't want to put one of those t'stats back in since we know that when they die, they kill the amm which is $$$.
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Currently getting +/- 50 mpg in fall weather. EPA is 31/39 so not too shabby. WAI, fuel cutoff switch, full belly pan, smooth wheel covers.

Now driving '97 Civic HX; tires ~ 50 psi. '89 Volvo 240 = semi-retired.
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Old 07-05-2007, 06:14 AM   #15
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SL8Brick, neat to read what you've been doing.
My airbox has a different mod - I cut out most of the front so the air blows straight in through the (non functional) ac condenser. Gives off a nice loud moan when you step on the gas; apparently the oem intake snorkel has a muffler type function for intake sound. In addition to it's restrictive effects since it's only about 1.75 inch diam.

Somewhere here on GasSavers I read that optimum IAT is 60-80 deg. F. That's fine for spring-summer, however I'm concerned that any bricks with the airbox t'stat removed are pulling in very raw air in winter. I just don't want to put one of those t'stats back in since we know that when they die, they kill the amm which is $$$.
Thanx, brucepick.

I've seen pics of your modded airbox on TBricks. I'd ultimately like to do something similar, but I'm leaning towards doing something creative with PVC tubing on the snorkel.

And, yes, it will be interesting to how my newly insulated box reacts to c-c-cold air this Winter. Since removing my airbox t-stat over 1yr ago, I've already encountered a few CEL conditions which could be attributed to the lack of warm air. I may end up hooking the warm-air t-stat back up for the Winter months. I'm thinking that the t-stat might operate a bit more efficiently while inside of and insulated enclosure. We'll see.
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Old 07-05-2007, 06:28 AM   #16
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Thanx, brucepick. ... Since removing my airbox t-stat over 1yr ago, I've already encountered a few CEL conditions which could be attributed to the lack of warm air. ...
SL88Brick, FWIW I didn't have any CELs after modding the airbox. That includes driving through a complete New England winter. I suspect something else caused the CELs, sorry to say.
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Currently getting +/- 50 mpg in fall weather. EPA is 31/39 so not too shabby. WAI, fuel cutoff switch, full belly pan, smooth wheel covers.

Now driving '97 Civic HX; tires ~ 50 psi. '89 Volvo 240 = semi-retired.
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Old 07-05-2007, 07:49 AM   #17
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brucepick,
The CEL code that I repeatedly encountered(3-4 times) last Winter was code '2-1-2'..."Signal missing/faulty from o2 sensor"...and the CEL only lit up on very cold days after the engine was warm and the car was sitting @ idle. I initially replaced the o2 sensor and visually traced the wiring...everything checked out OK, but the CEL persisted. A good friend of mine is a Volvo tech. He thinks that o2 sensor is picking up higher than normal unburned o2 levels due to the lack of the warm air mix. It kinda made sense to me, after all, cold air is more dense that warm air and there would tend to be more unburned o2 @ low rpms.
I lived with the "boomarang CEL" all Winter. If it came on, I verified the '2-1-2' code and reset the system. No running, drivability, FE problems associated with it...so I didn't worry about it too much.
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