This morning when I started my car, I noticed tha tthe clutch pedal was soft and when I engaged it to start the car, it sunk to the floor very easily. i was able to start the car and drive to work, but the pedal is really soft and I have to press it all the way down to shift. I had this issue before on my 91 Accord and had to replace two parts but I can't remeber the names of them. One part was on the other side of the firewall from the clutch pedal. The other part was located near the front of the engine. It was like on a cable or attached to a cable. I just dont remember. Has anybody had this issue and what was the issue. Can someone tell me the names of the parts I'm talking about?
Sounds like the clutch master cylinder to me. Often they get internal pressure leaks, and just don't hold the pressure like they used to, so if the slave cylinder is not leaking, replace it. I had one go bad on my 95 Integra, and it is common for them to go bad.
The other thing it could be is the slave cylinder, attached to the front of the tranny. TO check that one, pull back the accordian looking seal, under the rubber boot that covers it, and look for liquid. If it's leaking, that is probably it.
On the never-ending quest for better gas mileage...
The whole clutch system on the 92-95 Civics consists of the Clutch pedal (part of the pedal assembly), the reservoir (on the driver's side shock tower), the clutch master cylinder (on the firewall attached to the clutch pedal via the rod protruding from the clutch master cylinder), the hydraulic lines, and the clutch slave cylinder (on the transmission).
When it feels like the engagement point feels like it changed abruptly, first thing I do is flush out the hydraulic lines with fresh DOT 3 fluid. Check for leaks on the rubber lines near the slave cylinder and from the reservoir to the clutch master cylinder.
You can also check the adjustment of the rod connection to the pedal, although that would rarely change on it's own.
Another possibility is clutch disc or pressure plate failure.
I have, on the rarest of occasion, seen the clutch fork pivot point and fork itself get worn out and need replacement. This is a super rare occurrence with a stock clutch though.
The quick procedure is to go out and buy a mighty vac:
Turns it into a one man 5 minute job. It helps with brake bleeding, as well as engine diagnostics. It's worth the money to get one.
With the vacuum pump and reservoir, you just hook it up to the slave cylinder bleed valve, pump it up a few times, crack the bleeder valve and then make sure to keep the clutch reservoir filled while the old stuff goes into the vacuum pump reservoir.
I've done it the old way, then I got a vaccum pump for about $25, and it was well worth it! the clutch is a simple enough system that you can just pull fluid straight thru it, once you get clean clear fluid close everything up snug and pump the clutch a few times, then try flushing it again, if it's still clear you are good, if it's black like coffee then repeat the flush, put used fluid in a jug and take dispose of it properly, auto part stores should take it, or be able to tell you what to do with it.