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Old 09-01-2006, 01:27 PM   #21
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Quote:
Originally Posted by zpiloto
My gauge doesn't move once it get to 170 and the temp can goes as high as 218 in traffic and the thing never budges. I guess if it moved around with the temps people whould think it's broke If it ever moves to the high side of normal then it most be getting really hot.
Yeah, I heard the same thing. Also, back in the 70's they started putting the normal mark in the same spot among the same model, so if Mr. X's '76 Plymouth Volare' Wagon's temp gauge was slightly higher than his neighbor Mr. Y's identical car (a Dodge Aspen Wagon in this case), then they wouldn't be rushing to the dealer to complain than one ran "hotter". But indeed, it takes quite the heat for it to go past that mark.

Also, thanks Zugy for the info. I'll have to check those items. I'm going on a 100-mile round-trip right now, so I should have a chance to do some more analysis.

JanGeo, many times I would accelerate up to speed and cut the power, which probably isn't a good idea using the turbo analogy.

We'll see what develops. Thanks guys!

RH77
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Old 09-05-2006, 01:56 PM   #22
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Holey Radiator (Batman?)

Well,

After taking it to a local shop that will look things over free of charge to help the "break-it-yourselfer", they recommended a new rad cap, and to clean all of the green showing anywhere in the engine bay. I did that, ran an errand, came back and saw a little squirt on the reservoir. I waited 10 minutes, came back, and coolant was running down the top of the rad after if cooled -- there was green all over the top of the nooks and crannies of the rad. Looks like a puncture I 'spose.

Should I have a pressure test done, to be sure?
If I replace the rad, how high on a 1-10 scale would the difficulty be?

Thanks again -- I'm slowly learning the world of do-it-yourself auto repair and you all have been very helpful. When I joined this site I could basically change the oil. Now I can really get into some trouble! JK

RH77
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Old 09-05-2006, 02:32 PM   #23
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If it were me, I'd go ahead and get a new radiator and put it in. When you do the radiator, I would recommend getting all new radiator and heater hoses, as well. When you get a new radiator, purchase the heaviest duty, most number of radiator core's you can get. Additionally, I would try to find a new radiator which has brass tank's, not the cheappy plastic one's which seem to be typical, more often than not. If you get the brass, they seal to the core's with solder, instead of relying on a rubber gasket and a bunch of bent metal tang's, to hold the tank to the core's.

To replace, take drain your radiator fluid, their is usually a petcock at the bottom of the radiator. Disconnect and remove all electric fan's. Disconnect and remove all hose's. Typically their should be a couple of bolt's which hold the top of the radiator, to the front crossmember, through some rubber bushing's. Remove those and you should be able to remove the radiator.

When your done replacing everything, I recommend you use a mix of 50/50 antifreeze and distilled water. If you use distilled water it makes it so you don't get any deposit's, to speak of, plugging up your radiator or the engine.

Good Luck.
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Old 09-05-2006, 03:30 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Gary Palmer
If it were me, I'd go ahead and get a new radiator and put it in. When you do the radiator, I would recommend getting all new radiator and heater hoses, as well. When you get a new radiator, purchase the heaviest duty, most number of radiator core's you can get. Additionally, I would try to find a new radiator which has brass tank's, not the cheappy plastic one's which seem to be typical, more often than not. If you get the brass, they seal to the core's with solder, instead of relying on a rubber gasket and a bunch of bent metal tang's, to hold the tank to the core's.

To replace, take drain your radiator fluid, their is usually a petcock at the bottom of the radiator. Disconnect and remove all electric fan's. Disconnect and remove all hose's. Typically their should be a couple of bolt's which hold the top of the radiator, to the front crossmember, through some rubber bushing's. Remove those and you should be able to remove the radiator.

When your done replacing everything, I recommend you use a mix of 50/50 antifreeze and distilled water. If you use distilled water it makes it so you don't get any deposit's, to speak of, plugging up your radiator or the engine.

Good Luck.

Holy crap, thanks Gary! I have time this week to look for and install the rad, so it should get done soon. Thanks yet again for the detailed advice!

RH77
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