D15Z1 Engine swap project log

[GasSavers_Jack]

Originally Posted by Matt Timion

I actually toyed with the idea of just removing the entire a/c system today because it's so darn annoying to try to put the engine in while the compressor keeps getting in the way.

DON'T DO IT. When I replaced my engine I ripped out my A/C becuase it would be easyer and didnt work anyway. Well man oh man do I wish I had it now. I may actually try to put it back in.

[LincolnW]

Nice progress!

That sucks that you had to pull the engine back out of there though. lol.

Especially if you didn't have any help. I've done my engine by myself every time and it still sucks each and every time.

About the valve cover bolt... that actually happened to me once. The threads stripped out and as I was installing a helicoil the casting cracked off just like yours. All I did was JB weld that sucker back up! lol

I cleaned both surfaces really well and applied a thin layer of JB weld to them. Then I put the chunk back on the rocker arm and let it dry for a few days. When it was dry, I drilled and tapped the hole again and inserted another helicoil. It's held fine ever since. Maybe not the best way of repair, but it was easy and cheap.

You could also completely fill that hole with JB weld and drill and tap fresh threads for that bolt. Anyways, just an idea. Those threads don't have to be super strong because they only have to hold 7 lbs of torque anyways. I don't even torque mine to that any more, I just hand tighten them. I have stripped out more of those threads than I would like to remember.

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by 90CivicStandard

Nice progress!

That sucks that you had to pull the engine back out of there though. lol.

Especially if you didn't have any help. I've done my engine by myself every time and it still sucks each and every time.

About the valve cover bolt... that actually happened to me once. The threads stripped out and as I was installing a helicoil the casting cracked off just like yours. All I did was JB weld that sucker back up! lol

I cleaned both surfaces really well and applied a thin layer of JB weld to them. Then I put the chunk back on the rocker arm and let it dry for a few days. When it was dry, I drilled and tapped the hole again and inserted another helicoil. It's held fine ever since. Maybe not the best way of repair, but it was easy and cheap.

You could also completely fill that hole with JB weld and drill and tap fresh threads for that bolt. Anyways, just an idea. Those threads don't have to be super strong because they only have to hold 7 lbs of torque anyways. I don't even torque mine to that any more, I just hand tighten them. I have stripped out more of those threads than I would like to remember.

I think for now I'm just going to leave it. The last thing I want to do is tap a hole and have little tiny metal filings inside my cylinder head.

If it doesn't hold down though (if oil comes out of the valve cover) I will most likely jb weld the old one on and heli coil it just as you said. I have a heli-coil set for 6mm bolts, and that's exactly the size of this one.

[Matt Timion]

The engine is in... hooray! I wired up the distributor thanks to the folks at rywire. I now need to fix injector firing order and put the last engine mount on. After that I'll be putting the A/C and power steering on, and then it'll be time to get the vaccum hoses figured out.

[Matt Timion]

Engine is in



here are my vacuum woes. I have labeled each mystery hose in hopes that Someone can help me.



I'm holding the old Purge Solenoid from my old engine. This engine doesn't have a nipple for this valve, so I need to tap into another source. Can I do it at E below?

B goes to the fuel filter. Is it good to stay where it is?



This is the EGR control box for the Civic VX. It's unique to the VX. It helps with emissions and other stuff. There are two vacuum hoses here, C and D. Where do they go?



E is on the back of the intake manifold. Where does this go? Is this my own source of vacuum on this engine?



F and G are not vacuum hoses, but I'm assuming they go together. Do I plug F into G? I believe it's fuel... hence it being plugged up to prevent leaking (don't ask... my driveway smelled like gas for 2 days and I had NO idea why... geesh Matt).

[SVOboy]

F looks like the fuel return line, shove it on the back of the FPR, where G is. It might be too small/large/short or something like that, I had to get one from an EG to get it to fit properly and it still didn't fit well enough (but didn't leak, so happy ben).

[Bunger]

A: Gets vacuum somewhere over by the MC on the plenum I believe
B: Is good on the charcoal canister valve (i think thats were it is right?)
C: Goes to the EGR Valve
D: Vacuum on manifold at point E
E: See D
F: Goes to G
G: See F

There ya go!

[LincolnW]

Originally Posted by Bunger

A: Gets vacuum somewhere over by the MC on the plenum I believe
B: Is good on the charcoal canister valve (i think thats were it is right?)
C: Goes to the EGR Valve
D: Vacuum on manifold at point E
E: See D
F: Goes to G
G: See F

There ya go!

Beat me to it!

Except I would just take G off all together and hook F right up to the fuel pressure regulator... but whatever works.

I forgot how small those intake manifolds are. lol

[Bunger]

Originally Posted by 90CivicStandard

Beat me to it!

Except I would just take G off all together and hook F right up to the fuel pressure regulator... but whatever works.

I forgot how small those intake manifolds are. lol

Yea, only one of those hoses is needed. I think I had to use a worm drive on mine to get it to hold pressure.

That intake manifold is REALLY small. I'm always surprised how quick the car is with just a d15z1 mated to an HF trans. I can keep up with my friends 01 Durango... =)

[Matt Timion]

Originally Posted by Bunger

A: Gets vacuum somewhere over by the MC on the plenum I believe

The only problem is that there is no spot for it on my intake manifold. See this picture:



Normally there would be a spot for a vacuum hose here, but since this is a Japanese Intake Manifold it doesn't have one. Can I tap the purge solenoid into E (above) with a t-connector?