I'm trying to determine how much more it would cost to inspect/replace if needed the ISB when I get the clutch done(by next summer). Is that at the part of the transmission that is visible when the clutch is removed(plate/disc/flywheel etc)?
PS: Thanks for trying to locate the pressure test port, also I'm curious to know how to test the FPR. I don't think I'm having fueling issues, then. It's probably all clutch related, on top of a battery that's getting roasted this summer.
EDIT: Someone else mentioned on the BITOG site to perhaps check for flex in the floor beneath the clutch pedal, that could be affecting performance(aside from obviously mechanical issues), possibly making symptoms worse.
A failed ISB could certainly affect idle (and stop affecting it when you step on the clutch pedal).
A manual I was reading to try to find your fuel pressure test fitting (I couldn't find it, sorry) said that the main relay is fine if the car starts at all.
...and here is some proof that manuals aren't always right:
Originally Posted by benfrogg
Now the behavior on the highway you've just described is almost exactly the symptom given by the main relay. This is what happened to my vx. I was a couple of miles from home (almost all down hill from there, thankfully) and the car just stalled. I was accelerating at the time. I cranked for a while to no avail. I put it in neutral and coasted much of the way home. I had to push a while, which wasn't bad, until the medium incline of my road. I figured for grins, why not try to start again. And, just as beautifully as it had started for the past year, it started again. No crappy running, just good to go.
So, you need to resolider your main relay. If nothing else, it rules it out. That relay controls spark and fuel in one plastic box. If you had no spark at the shop, that is absolutely why. (especially if it came back randomly not long afterward) The reason it starts again later is because the temp has lowered enough or vibration allowed the relay to have good contact at the joints. It is very possible that the relay is giving low/insufficient voltage/amps during certain circumstances like when it is hot.
If you have a solidering iron you can do this fix yourself. Most people recommend removing the old solider with a special tool (desolidering iron) but I just added solider to each of my joints with new solider and it's been a year with no problems.
You can replace the relay too, but this solution is really cheap and easy to do. If it solves the problem, and it comes back, you can buy a new one if you'd like.
(just posted in another thread)
Also, it is wise to note that the main relay isn't merely part of the fuel or ignition systems, but is in fact part of both, so if you have no fuel AND no spark (per a question in an earlier post) then the main relay may be a good place to look, you may only have one item to fix after all.
If you intend to pull the relay for inspection, resolider it either way. It's worth 5 minutes of your time if you have it out already!
The poor idle could be symptoms of another issue.... only happening when at lowest idle. When I got my vx, the idle was set too high. It was too high because it idled like crap at the right rpm.
Have you cleaned your TB? That helped a lot with idle for me. Did you every see my backyard mechanic video on cleaning injectors? It's a good vid. http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2y_YSkJmXhM
You can did it without the vacuum too, perhaps more effectively. Use a length of tube the diameter of the injector input. Block the other end of the hose with a bolt or whatever. Drill a tiny hole to insert the spray tube of the can of cleaner. Follow the rest of the steps in the video from there.
Great posts guys. No symptoms for the main relay, yet, but I may pull it for inspection. I have a K&N air filter and it was re-oiled recently enough that I probably could afford to check the TB for residue, etc.
Also, I will be removing the breather chamber, if possible(I believe it may need a replacement o-ring?), at the time I next remove the oil filter(later this fall).
I still want to know if 94/95 VX owners, or any VX owner for that matter...that has the PCV valve at the location some of us have the hollow elbow(in the intake manifold) have located at the breather chamber? I wonder what would happen if there were 2 PCV valves installed by mistake?
Seems to imply the vx came with a pcv, just in two different locations.
I'd say double pcv wouldn't hurt anything. It would very likely act just like it did with one pcv, in my guess. Now, if one of those two pcv's had failed open, the other valve would "fix the problem." If, (the more likely scenario) the pcv failed in the barely open or closed position, the second pcv could interfere with operations. The internal spring tension could be too great to be over come by the lowered vacuum pressure offered by the prior pcv.
The chamber has a gasket that is thicker than an o-ring where the pcv plugs in. It looks a lot like the o-rings on the injectors, if I remember correctly. Where it bolts to the block there is almost guaranteed another gasket. Maybe try majestic for a diagram?
My TB and IM was gross. It had + or - 1/32" of crud on the throttle plate and the point it meets the TB. I don't use a k and n either. It was really incredible how much better the car idled after cleaning both. The TB being the more important of the two. You need the flat gasket that comes with it to clean it. It comes out in pieces usually. You also need to back out the idle screw which is brass and really wants to strip in spite of being a flat blade (not threads, flat blade part strips). The factory seems to have added a copious amount of something that looks like "pipe dope" that's used on black iron pipes. The idle screw also has a gasket on it, so I couldn't see any need to redope it. Just like working on a carb, count the number of turns the screw comes out. You'll need it for ballpark idle adjustment afterward.
Also do the cleaning of the IACV. No need to replace the gasket, I've found, just rebolt it afterward. I filled it with cleaner on the bench and covered the holes with my hand. Then, i shook the crap out of it. I repeated that 2-3 times until the cleaner that drained out was clean.
Adjust the idle:
Get the car good and warm. Short the two prong plug near the ecu on the passenger side under the dash. The CEL will come on to verify that you are in fixing mode. (no ecu idle adjustment via IACV or timing advance, etc) Turn the brass screw until idle is where it is supposed to be (400rpm is the sweet spot). Done!
As for the main relay, mine was having the problem I described but was almost impossible to tell it was the problem, even when looking at it in good light. The cracks are hairline at best.
A tip for removing the brass idle screw; Count the number of turns to seat the screw rather than out. Due to the amount of goop, I had a hard time knowing when the screw was actually free of the threads. I had to check another TB I had to get a baseline. It was~1.25 turns from seat FYI. There was a nice little carbon teepee under it on the intake.
My motor has a pcv in the breather chamber seated in a grommet and a elbow on the intake.
I just attempted replacing the ISB on a spare tranny as well. The shops around hear wanted a few hundred dollars for labor time to do it. I got old bearing fragments out and looked at the mesh teeth and just decided to get a rebuild. It only took me about 1.5 hours to disassemble including cutting the bearing race from the trans housing. I used this procedure
Thanks for your experience. Is the ISB clutch side, easy to access without serious transmission dis-assembly? I need my clutch replaced and do not want to have to disassemble the tranny to access the ISB.