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Old 03-12-2008, 11:08 AM   #11
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well you haven't got 41 years of crap in there if it was stripped and rebuilt. Unless you've had some really nasty gas through it since, it should be fine.
The tank would, since it's all-original and is the only part of the fuel system that hasn't been dropped + refurbed or replaced. So far so good though...I've put about 250mi on mostly E10 gas (I guess most of it was E10 - the pumps are all marked "MAY contain up to 10% ethanol") this week and although the gas mileage sucks even for a '67 Mustang (I'm working on that), it seems to be doing OK.
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:29 PM   #12
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whats it supposed to get? might have to tune the carb some.
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Old 03-12-2008, 04:53 PM   #13
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with no smog and emissions stuff to mess with I've heard of folks getting mid 20s comfortably with even large V8s, must all be in the tuning. Might wanna make yourself a progressive throttle arm if tip-in is a little on the aggressive side.
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Old 03-12-2008, 08:34 PM   #14
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whats it supposed to get? might have to tune the carb some.
Most folks are averaging 15-16 in good tune, and are able to get 17-20 on the open road even sans overdrive. My '68 was capable of this, I had several tanks over 20mpg between college and home, about a three hour drive. The only good thing about 2.73 gears I guess. But the '67? My best tank was on Monday, 200mi of mostly highway driving, got 15.47mpg. I average around 13. Like you, I had suspected it was running a bit rich, but a pull on the dyno revealed I was right on the money (as far as power was concerned). Also, I don't have that many miles on the engine, so it's still loosening up to some degree.

I've just put in a fan clutch, but I'm now a bit dubious as to the gains. I had to switch from the original 5-blade Ford fan to an aftermarket 6-blade fan with a way deeper pitch to fit over the clutch. We'll see what I get before I move on. Next move is a stronger throttle return spring - the one now is super weak, and I've never really gotten used to it so that every few green lights I'm sure I'm hitting the accelerator pump. It hangs up unless I blip the throttle a little before letting off, too.
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Old 03-13-2008, 04:02 AM   #15
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OK, since the subject is now broached (somewhat):
What equivalent EPA numbers are accepted for Gassavers Garage entries that were built before the EPA began rating fuel economy?
My 39 year old SAAB is wishes to play, too.
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Old 03-13-2008, 04:08 AM   #16
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From what I've seen and helped people with on their track cars, when they switch to full alcohol they have to put massive oversized jets in the carb. Alcohol is tricky to work with and set up. If you add alcohol to your fuel it'll run as though it's too lean- and it is. You also get much less btu's out of alcohol than straight gasoline which is one more reason the mileage goes down. Basically if the car was already running at it's peak perfect mixture with gasoline, and then you mix in some alcohol, now it's going to be running lean. It's harder to start in cold weather, causes condensation in the oil, and messes with the rubber hoses unless they're pretty new.

I personally would look into installing a fuel mixture gauge if I was forced into using alcohol in my fuel, on my older car.
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Old 03-13-2008, 05:31 AM   #17
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Have you thought about an AOD with a locking converter?
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Old 03-13-2008, 11:27 AM   #18
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Have you thought about an AOD with a locking converter?
Eventually I do plan on getting one of these. Ford's AOD isn't an overly tough swap into these cars...but waaaaaaay over what I can afford on $7.50/hour. The hardest part is setting up the throttle valve cable so the trans doesn't grenade itself in 50 miles.
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Old 03-13-2008, 06:02 PM   #19
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Eventually I do plan on getting one of these. Ford's AOD isn't an overly tough swap into these cars...but waaaaaaay over what I can afford on $7.50/hour. The hardest part is setting up the throttle valve cable so the trans doesn't grenade itself in 50 miles.
Really? I would have thought they could be had fairly cheap around $150 for a working used one. You could use almost any aod, truck, van, car, etc.
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Old 03-13-2008, 07:21 PM   #20
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Yeah, it's the putting it in that gets expensive. Plus, I don't recall offhand, but there might be flexplate issues, getting someone who knows what they're doing to tune the TV cable, time on a car lift, etc. Just like how a $30 fan clutch turned into a $100 project. Oh and then there's the driveshaft which I think has to be shortened.

Alright...now that I think about it...I guess it's not so easy. But you shouldn't have to bang on the trans tunnel and I believe you can still use the stock shifter location.
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