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Old 08-12-2006, 01:12 PM   #31
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Just unplug wires until the engine dies.
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Old 08-12-2006, 01:14 PM   #32
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I need to have the plug unplugged to depin them.
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Old 08-12-2006, 01:16 PM   #33
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Snip, snip.
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Old 08-12-2006, 01:24 PM   #34
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Passenger's Side, c101

Front of car Back of car
yel Blu
Wht/Yel Wht/Yel
Wht-3 wht-3
Grn/Wht-2 Grn/Wht-2
Red/Wht-1 Red/Wht-1
Wht/Blu Wht/Blu
Or/Blu Or/Blu
Wht-4 Wht-4
Orn Orn
Red/blu Red/blu
Yel/wht Yel/wht
Red/yel Red/Yel
Brn/blk Brn/Blk
Blk/red Blk/red
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Old 08-12-2006, 01:27 PM   #35
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Ok, White 3, engine side, goes to O2 sensor. ECU side, goes to C16 on ecu.
White 4, engine side, goes to ignitor unit, on dizzy. ECU side goes to C2.
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Old 08-12-2006, 01:44 PM   #36
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SVOboy: Would you do me a favor? I've been looking at the schematic and although their are similar colored wire's on both of the plug's, none of them look to me like they would allow the car to keep running, once it's started and then the ignition key is turned off and removed, but the engine keep's running.

I keep thinking about Krousedb's comment on the fuel pump, because the fuel pump relay is enabled by the ecu and the only way the ecu can keep enabling the fuel pump is if it was getting power from somewhere besides the ignition switch.

Do I understand the problem correctly?
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Old 08-12-2006, 01:53 PM   #37
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Sorry, my dad comandeered the computer, since he's a fool.

I think you're getting it correctly. Think being the main word.
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:12 PM   #38
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Snip snip discovered that the second wire I clipped, which was a yellow black, would turn the engine off. I'll take a picture of it here in a second, but anyway, it runs out to the harness section under the IM then I can't follow it because the IM is in the way. I'm going to wire back up the first one I cut and see if it'll work normally with just that one wire cut...wonder what it does,
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:16 PM   #39
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Sorry, I got busy trying to sort out the schematic's.

Can you check for voltage at the yellow/black wire which goes to your injector's. You will probably need to change the DVM to measure DC volt's, which some meter's show as a flat line. Set it for 20V. Then you should be able to measure voltage. Double check it by measuring across the battery.

Presuming you get 12-13 volt's, then turn the ignition key on, but don't start the car. You should get 12 volt's across ground on the battery and the black/yellow wire to the injector's.

Then turn the key off and take it out. You should get 0 volt's. I think you are probably getting 12, even with the key off. Then let me know and we can track backward from their.
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Old 08-12-2006, 02:23 PM   #40
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Well, I checked the injectors yesterday with my test light and they seemed fine. Anyway, picture in a second of the working solution at this time.
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