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Old 10-30-2017, 03:34 AM   #1
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GMC Jimmy fuel gauge issue.

Hello Everyone,

Have a 2001 Jimmy. New fuel pump/sending unit installed. Ignition off, gauge goes to 1/2 - 3/4 full mark. Unlock any door or open any door or turn key to start position, gauge snaps back to empty position. Engine running, gauge stays at empty. Have tested voltage and resistance at sending unit, ok. All other gauges in cluster operational. Not sure what to check next.

Any Idea , Suggestions would be appreciated,

Thanks,

I didn't find the right solution from the internet.

References:https://www.cnet.com/forums/discussi...l-gauge-issue/


installation video
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Old 10-30-2017, 05:14 AM   #2
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My first suspicion would be a deteriorated connection on the instrument cluster printed circuit board. Probably a bad ground connection where when you power up more stuff the circuit is not complete and the residual electricity finds a ground path through the gauge, which means you have no ground. More than likely it would be the ground connection where more than one of the components shared a common connection.

If you can power up the cluster with it outside where you could get a DVOM to the pins you might be able to find the voltage drop across the connection to confirm absolutely the problem. I usually just did a good visual inspection looking for a point where the solder rises up on the pins and there is a crack surrounding the area close to the pin itself. The gauge sending unit most likely grounds to the chassis so that ground pathway needs to be in good shape.

It could also be something crazy like a bad ground almost anywhere. If the cluster is a simple job to remove, you might try it first. If not then start at the battery, making sure there are good grounds everywhere. I think that is a separate frame vehicle, so make sure you have good body to frame grounds, even temporary grounds just for the purpose of diagnosis.

It can be a real challenge to find the bad ground.

If your replacement initiated the problem then that is where you need to start double checking everything. the sending unit receives current from the gauge and that current goes to a ground. The current is reduced to around 5 volts before it gets to the gauge, then goes to the sender and to a ground back to the battery.

Find a voltage drop by going along the same circuit checking to make sure the voltage is the same along that circuit. The circuit needs to be active to measure the drop. Start at the ground connection to the battery and work your way along the circuit backwards. This can be a tough job taking considerable time, some customers mistaken a process of elimination as a hit or miss repair and when you find the problem the repair usually takes a very short time.
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Old 11-02-2017, 10:02 AM   #3
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I also instantly thought about the instrument cluster. IIRC, GM was using a new, more environmentally friendly solder at that time, but it was more brittle or prone to breaking down, and there are a decent number of early-mid-2000s GM products with all sorts of wacky electrical stuff that can be traced back to the clusters.
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Old 11-02-2017, 06:32 PM   #4
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First time I ran onto it was when the Nissan Z cars went DISCO with the 280ZX with a digital dash. The power amplifier would get the bad connections and the dash went dead. Did probably a hundred of them. I think it was a two hour labor job and virtually 100% successful. Sometimes had to test and retry but the customers loved it and later you could not even get the digital dash replacement at close to $1k.

Dit it on my old Ranger to get the tach working, even got the cruise control working.
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