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Old 08-04-2007, 12:07 AM   #21
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Alright. Good news so far.

I believe I found the fuel filter. I got under the car the best I could and did not see it underneath. I opened up the hood, searched around for a little while and spotted a highly similar looking piece, only weathered. It was attached against the frame of the car on the side nearest the driver. Leading directly from this piece was a line, which fed four different items (shaped like a spark plug). I presume that those are the fuel injectors.

Could I possibly be right?

If so, this is a major step for me. I was almost tempted to try to replace it myself.
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Old 08-04-2007, 07:41 AM   #22
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Someone else I talked to said it could be the throttle body (idk what that is).
The throttle is a round metal plate that blocks off airflow coming into the engine. Stepping on the gas pedal twists that plate (via a cable) until, with the pedal to the floor, the plate is edge-on to the air flow, presenting almost no restriction. In gasoline engines, it's the throttle plate that controls power output. In older cars, the throttle is part of the carburator; In fuel injected cars, it's generally a separate component.
The throttle body is simply the part that houses the throttle plate. It's generally a round air passage bolted to the beginning of the intake manifold (yeah, yeah... "what's an intake mainfold?"). It's generally a few inches long, made of aluminum, has a cable attached to it and is connected to the air filter box by a large tube. If your car uses a MAF (Mass Air Flow) sensor, it will be located between the air filter and throttle body, so don't confuse the two.
Depending on engine design, the throttle body may incorperate other components such as a throttle position sensor, MAP (Manifold Absolute Pressure) sensor, idle control valves and even the fuel injectors.

I guess pics would help. Lucky you, I've got the engine out of my car ATM.



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Old 08-04-2007, 09:51 AM   #23
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I had something very similar happen to me. This is what solved it for me. Your new oil change should consist of the smaller bottle of marvel mystery oil and 4 bottles of whatever your choice of oil. Then from their I recommend getting some B12 chemtool. With only about 1/4 of a tank left add B12 Chem tool through until you just about run well into the red. This will blow any gunk from the injectors. before doing even that I recommend replacing fuel filter and fuel pump (new fuel pump is always helpful) When you finally get the gas tank drop clean the gas tank out with some gasoline this will ensure their are no loose particles sitting at the bottom. Also replace the ignition module if you got one and put some newer spark plugs in . Check the fuel lines to see if their free of foreign material. Also ensure that the belts are in good shape and take the alternator down to a auto store like autozone and have them do a alternator check this is always good regardless if you are having problems or not. Put new distributor on and wires but if you have a distributor less car then minus that. Make sure you coolant temperature sensor is in good share. This is always a very overlook part on the car. Allot of times the manufactures will make them of plastic and they do fail and the ones you get at the auto store are made of a good metal and normally they last forever. It sounds like going overboard but its always better to go ahead and knock out all the likely problems then trying to take down and rebuild again.
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Old 08-04-2007, 01:08 PM   #24
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Also replace the ignition module if you got one and put some newer spark plugs in . [...] Put new distributor on and wires but if you have a distributor less car then minus that.
I was thinking it could be an ignition problem as well, but given the info, it could just as well be a fuel supply issue or clogged cat.
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Old 08-04-2007, 01:12 PM   #25
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Well the car has an ignition problem as well. Either a bad wire, or a bad relay switch somewhere, so right now there is a push button wire to the solenoid and battery somehow.

Thanks for the pics and explanation bobski. I had ready something like that on howstuffworks.com but it wasn't as in depth.
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Old 08-04-2007, 09:58 PM   #26
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another thing I recommend doing is get a code reader for that car. Being 94 its probably the older style code reader. I still recommend getting one and try to fix anything that comes up on the code reader. This will help allot it might not fix the problem your faced now with but it will let you know of any other hidden problems you might face down the road. Plus getting all the codes cleared off the car is a great feeling both to you and how the car will act. Allot of older cars will act just fine but when put up to a code reader can give a whole host of codes that might result in problems with the car.
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Old 08-05-2007, 07:38 AM   #27
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bfg,
I'm pretty sure a code reader for a 1994 mitsubishi is gonna cost upwards of $500. It's not the same as the ford/GM/Chrysler 1994's two prong device....in fact a paper clip works on 1993's, 1994's and 1995's are OBD1.5's,....they are the expensive ones to pull codes from.

Atomicradish,
I would vote that its your fuel filter causing the problem. The fuels we are using now have a minimum of ethanol in them, and ethanol is an incredible cleaner, so all that old gas varnished in the tank and lines and the new gas cleaned it out and deposited it in the filter.
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Old 08-05-2007, 09:40 AM   #28
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yes it still needs to be done especially if its never been check. Go to any good mechanic shop they will run the codes for you. Autozone will do it for yeah as well. Pending what it is.

On a side note Its always funny when you take your car to a toyota dealer service center and you hand them the code error and they write them down and give them to the mechanic. I did this a couple of times and each time the mechanic personally came out and talk with me about the car. Not their stupid middle man that just says your car needs this and that and you gotta pay this and that. They know I'm not F**** around. Man I cant stand those middle man people that come up to talk to you about your car. They dont know nothing beyong what the mechanic told them. Of course I'm out of the warranty part of my car now so If something goes wrong I fix it myself.
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Old 08-05-2007, 10:49 AM   #29
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Autozone will not scan codes on ANY car older than 1996.
Also, since the vehicle is a 1994, IF the SES light is not on, there will be no stored codes in the computer. It wasn't until 1996 that codes could be set and not activate a light.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bfg9000d View Post
yes it still needs to be done especially if its never been check. Go to any good mechanic shop they will run the codes for you. Autozone will do it for yeah as well. Pending what it is.

On a side note Its always funny when you take your car to a toyota dealer service center and you hand them the code error and they write them down and give them to the mechanic. I did this a couple of times and each time the mechanic personally came out and talk with me about the car. Not their stupid middle man that just says your car needs this and that and you gotta pay this and that. They know I'm not F**** around. Man I cant stand those middle man people that come up to talk to you about your car. They dont know nothing beyong what the mechanic told them. Of course I'm out of the warranty part of my car now so If something goes wrong I fix it myself.
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Old 08-05-2007, 03:12 PM   #30
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Are autozone will run codes on older cars. They ran it for me on my 92 Taurus. It verys from autozone to autozone. Although most don't
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