"Homemade" Upper Cylinder Lube - Page 2 - Fuelly Forums

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Old 09-06-2008, 04:21 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by bobski View Post
Anyway, it's a lot cheaper to replace the rings than the cylinder liner, but that's really the only solution here -- replacing the rings. That means removing the cylinder head, oil pan and unbolting the connecting rods from the crank. Might as well replace the rod bearings while you're in there.
...and while you're in there, you might as well use gapless rings.
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Old 09-06-2008, 08:47 PM   #12
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Well, I changed the oil today and ended up adding the Restore. The last oil was Mobil 1 High Mileage 10W-40 and only had 1000 miles on it. I don't think I've ever seen 1000 mile oil come out so black. I guess that's what happens when you have a car with 292,000 miles and an unknown history. I'm sure it's been to a few JiffyLubes in it's day and who knows what they've done to it.

I'll finish off this tank of gas since it has B-12 Chemtool in it, and then I'll add my upper cylinder lube to the next tank. I don't want to put a lot of money into this car because I'm hoping to save up some money for a Geo Metro.

I'll post the results as soon as I get them, I'll also do another compression check after a few hundred miles and with the upper cylinder lube in the gas and not in the gas. Just out of curiosity.
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Old 09-08-2008, 06:10 AM   #13
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My only concern is that the lead substitute may damage your catalytic converter. I know that cats were one of the reasons for switching away from leaded fuel and that leaded fuel will ruin a cat in no time. I'd read the bottle very carefully before adding that to the engine.
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Old 09-08-2008, 06:29 AM   #14
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It depends. Some of the lead substitutes are really lead, some aren't. The stuff I used to add to my 74 Chevy was a lead substitute. The bottle even said it was safe for catalytic converters.

Two that come to mind that I had tried when I had the 74 Chevy were "Instead O' Lead" and "ReaLead" I ended up buying an entire case of Instead O' Lead because I found it on clearance for like $0.25/bottle. I think there is probably some still left in dad's garage. I know I still have oil filters. I found a bunch of Fram oil filters on clearance for $0.50/ea and I bought about a dozen. I still have some. We just used one on Rusty a few months ago.

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Old 09-08-2008, 07:41 AM   #15
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Improbcat,

My Honda has the CVCC design, so it never had a catalytic converter, even new from the factory. So that's one thing I don't have to worry about.

The bottle doesn't say anything about safe for catalytic converters and O2 sensors, and it says "For Off-Road Use Only" so I'm guessing it may contain some lead, but I'm not too worried about it since the car doesn't have a cat and the I think the O2 is already bad. O2 Sensors for this car are only $17 anyway.

It also says "Reduces Exhaust Emissions". So I guess it would have to contain some lead, otherwise why would they be required to put "For Off-Road Use Only" on the bottle?
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Old 09-08-2008, 08:18 AM   #16
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It could be that they just didn't want to pay for the testing to have it approved for road use.

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Old 09-09-2008, 12:44 AM   #17
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The black oil is probably from all the stuff you broke off in the steam cleaning. Did some thinking after I did mine, because I got water in my oil too. I don't think that water in the oil, in little amounts, compared to what you poured in, necessarily mean you have a blowby problem. I have no doubt that what was sucked in when I did mine was more than what could be burned. that means that the piston temp was probably dropped quite a bit, possibly enough to make enough room for the piston to pull away from the cylinder wall. Just me thinking out loud, but even after 500 km I still have the PCV catch can bottom barely coated, after a long trip with too much stuff and not enough engine(meaning lots of boost).
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Old 09-10-2008, 03:19 AM   #18
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Even with 2 engines that don't use much oil (5K and 3K per qt) I use a pint of kerosene in the oil run for 15 mins before it is changed...plus about a pint of water introduced into the intake using a dish soap bottle with the spout...keep the rpms up some...go slow.

If I had an oil burner...I'd do this every 3K with an oil change and try using Seafoam in the plug holes overnite also.
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Old 09-14-2008, 05:44 PM   #19
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I might try adding some extra detergents in the oil right before the next oil change, maybe CD2 Oil Detergent or MMO. I don't think I'll do the water thing again for a while. I poured a total of about a gallon down the carb within three days so I'd say its pretty well cleaned out. As for SeaFoam, its mostly pale oil, some alcohol, and some naphtha (not sure if I spelled that right, sorry). I prefer B-12 as it has more solvents in it.

Anyway, I'm still on the same tank with B-12 in it, its getting low though so I'll be able to fill up soon and add my homemade upper cylinder lubricant and see how it turns out.
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Old 09-16-2008, 03:36 PM   #20
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Well, I put the mixture in the gas yesterday. I have 18 miles on it so far, and I can tell its burning it because the exhaust has a slight french fry smell to it. Oddly enough, my idle went up from around 1700rpm (yea this car has and idle problem) to 2100. I have a few theories on it, but I'll finish running the tank and see how it goes before I start thinking them out too far.
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