I never did get the torch, as I kind of just gave up after a while of trying to get the o2 sensor off. We ended up having the guys at Midas do it for us.
The particular bolts I'm having an issue with arn't on the engine itself, but rather are the bolts that connect the exhaust manifold to the exhaust itself. This means that in the worst case scenario I'll be able to just cut the bolts off and get new ones, which might be the preferred method if I can't get these bolts off.
I've been considering adding a second fuel filter. I also might want to get one that doesn't allow for air bubbles. The one I have now has a tiny pocket of air in it and I'm certain this is the cause of my occassional sputters. I'm fairly certain I can use the cheap ones at autozone for this application.
The n600 DOES in fact have points, which I replaced a few months ago. I need to recheck the gap though just to make sure it hasn't shifted on me. I wish I could think of an alternative to the points, but unless I go for a full EFI conversion then I cannot think of a way to eliminate the points.
The n600 has a timing chain, which I probably need to replace considering the vacuum is all the way advanced (probably have a stretched chain).
Originally Posted by Gary Palmer
Matt: Did you ever acquire a high temp propane/mapp torch, when you were working on your wife's oxygen sensor. When you get to rusted exhaust bolt's, you can use that torch to heat the bolt red hot and then you can back the nut's off, get the bolt's out, clean up the threads with a tap and die and put it all back together with the "thread preperation" to keep the bolts from freezing up like they do. I can't remember the name of the "thread preparation", but it's for putting in oxygen sensor's and thing's like that, that get hot, rust and generally become difficult to get loose. It's a silver paste stuff, comes in a tube a little larger than a AA battery, about 4" long. You can get it at PepBoy's. It makes that stuff a lOT easier to get out, if you ever have to remove any of it, again. (Can someone help me out here, I cannot remember the name of that stuff.)
On your n600, if your car sat for a good long time, before you got it, or before you got it running, you might want to put 2 inline fuel filter's between the line from the tank to the carburator. I had a 53 Chevy that I had to put a used tank into and I had to put 2 filter's on it and keep a spare in the glove box, to catch all of the garbage which kept coming down the fuel line. If you have 2, the first one get's plugged quicker, but it also catche's most of the garbage and the second one catch's the last bit. Once I did that, I never had to take the carburator off, to clean it out and all of that business.
Also, if the n600 has point's on it, then it's timing is very susceptible to wear on the point's and as the gap change's, it also changes the timing. If you can find a electronic alternative, you should consider it, because the point's just add a whole additional level of variable's to the timing and it's a constant question mark, or at least it always was, for me.
The stuff you're talking about Gary is Anti-Sieze Compound (the stuff I have has copper colored flakes in it instead of silver though). I use it all over the car, but especially on all my exhaust components.
Points are a *****, there's no other way to put it. I remember CONSTANTLY fighting my points ignition on my Porsche 914. Are you sure there isn't a magneto setup out there for the N/Z600's Matt? I know they had one for the 914 ignition, but I never got it.
I'm new on GasSavers. I find it because i plan to buy ? honda N600 and i have a question for those who know them.
On the car i saw, there are different numbers between the one below the windscreen (near air cleaner) and the other on front right wing.
On the official papers, this is the number of the front right wing.
The question is, is it a normal situation or not ?
What about your honda N600 ? the numbers are same ?
I didn't check about engine numbers, not the purpose at this time.
Thank you for your advice and sorry for my english
Matt: On your n600, I doubt that the air which is trapped in the fuel filter is causing you any problem's. The carburator has the bowl, which in theory should be almost full of fuel, all of the time, since typically that is where the fuel is pulled from, through to the venturi's. The fuel level can drastically affect whether it run's lean or rich, depending on if it is set a little higher or lower. However the float adjustment addresses that, so that their should be fuel available, all of the time.
On the filter's, if you go to two filter's, all I used to do was buy the generic, disposable filter's and witht two of them, in series, I never had any carburator problem's, after I added the two filter's. I did have times when the car would go into a coughing, spitting, bucking fit, and I would have to pull over, pull the spare filter out of the glove box, but the new filter closest to the carburator and move the one closeset to the carburator, to be closest to the fuel tank. Invariably, when I would try to blow through the filter which had been closest to the tank, it would be almost completely shut off, from the garbage in the tank. Once I'd get the filter update done, then I'd be good to go and I just finally got to where I'd alway's keep a spare filter and screwdriver, in the glove box.
On your car, if it has point's, then I don't think it has a magneto. I know you used to be able to purchase electronic's controller's which would not physically replace the point's, but which would allow the point's to only carry a very small current, instead of the very heavy one which they traditionally used to do. I presume something like that is probably still available, without trying to go to MPFI or something, similar.
According to the seller, the following is what was done to the engine. I assumed it was rebuilt by the n600/z600 expert in NC, but the seller rebuilt it. It's really no big deal, assuming it was done right... here is what he said:
The following is what he did.
Head and Cam Jug with new piston and rings and piston pin New chain,chain guide roller and Hydraulic Tensioner new fuel pump.
I also have the HONDA Z360,600 Coupe Shop Manual that will come with the car.
At present the carburettor is in a box with various other parts that go under hood, are in the car.
Hopefully there are no issues with this and i'll be able to get it running fairly easily. The body appears to be in good shape, so it should clean up nicely.