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Old 02-13-2007, 05:34 PM   #11
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Not that I know of. I'm trying to spend as little money as possible on this. If I can't get a temperature measurement for cheap, I'm just going to have to go with trial and error and hope that the engine doesn't die on me. What little I've done to the car so far has been improvised, jerry-rigged and almost free. I plan on continuing on this route.

I definitely plan on making some aero mods in the future, but it's going to be a pretty difficult task. The car runs hot as it is, to a grille block is out of the question. I'm nervous about a belly pan because it's an old car and if I need to get under it it's going to be a ***** and a half. The rear end and wheel wells are going to be where the most room for improvement will be. I have a few ideas about what I can do about the notch-back, but nothing set in stone yet. The biggest problem is securing the mods to the car. I'm not good with building things that aren't jerry-rigged, so drilling holes in the roof will be out of the question, and it rains to often here and is too humid for duct tape to be effective.
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Old 02-13-2007, 07:09 PM   #12
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repete86-

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Originally Posted by repete86 View Post
Not that I know of. I'm trying to spend as little money as possible on this. If I can't get a temperature measurement for cheap, I'm just going to have to go with trial and error and hope that the engine doesn't die on me. What little I've done to the car so far has been improvised, jerry-rigged and almost free. I plan on continuing on this route.
Here is one that goes to 300 degrees F for $20 :

http://www.eidusa.com/Electronics_Ki...D_LM34_F_1.htm


But I don't know if 300 degrees F is still too low for the fuel rail.

Quote:
I definitely plan on making some aero mods in the future, but it's going to be a pretty difficult task. The car runs hot as it is, to a grille block is out of the question. I'm nervous about a belly pan because it's an old car and if I need to get under it it's going to be a ***** and a half. The rear end and wheel wells are going to be where the most room for improvement will be. I have a few ideas about what I can do about the notch-back, but nothing set in stone yet. The biggest problem is securing the mods to the car. I'm not good with building things that aren't jerry-rigged, so drilling holes in the roof will be out of the question, and it rains to often here and is too humid for duct tape to be effective.
I believe in reversible mods where possible, but then you have to take more time to devise them.

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Old 02-13-2007, 08:06 PM   #13
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Originally Posted by repete86 View Post
...I'm trying to spend as little money as possible on this. If I can't get a temperature measurement for cheap, I'm just going to have to go with trial and error and hope that the engine doesn't die on me. What little I've done to the car so far has been improvised, jerry-rigged and almost free. I plan on continuing on this route. ...
Try this, take a cylindrical container that can hold some pressure (i.e. 40psi) under some heat (i.e. 240), figure out how to route your hot coolant through it from one end to the other (tee off the heater core lines upstream of any valves) and coil up some tubing inside it with the ends coming out and sealed. Run fuel through coiled up tubing.

I also like the "wrap the hot hose going to the radiator with a coil of tubing and wrap all that in insulation" approach too. Very simple and effective.
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Old 02-14-2007, 07:24 AM   #14
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Heating the gas? Hmmm....

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Originally Posted by repete86 View Post

The combustion point of gasoline is 470 degrees fahrenheit. I keep seeing various figures about what the bp is of gasoline. Judging by what I'm reading, it's somewhere between 100 and 437 degrees. The most common figure that I'm seeing is around 250 degrees.


...to see if there's a nice spot where it's consistently around 300 degrees and that is close to the fuel rail. When I find this I intend to wrap the gas line around it in order to vaporize the gasoline, therefor expanding it in order to put a smaller yet faster burning bit of fuel into the engine for cleaner combustion.

Is this going to propel my mileage to new heights or make the Green Machine a time bomb?
Be sure to let me know when you plan to be on MY road! LOL!
Seriously... do you have any idea how the fuel state affects ignition timing? 100% vapor ? Or just part of it? Do you compensate for the fuel's tendency to vapor-lock?
If the auto manufacturers could "get away with" these quick shortcuts and free changes...don't you think they would like to sell more product? Even before regs strangled them...sales mean more than anything!
Don't get me wrong...I hate waste / bureaucr*p more than anyone... would you like to see my 2 US patent numbers on gasoline combustion modification? Over the years, I can't locate anyone who gives a da*n!
On a happier note...perhaps you would be interested in my gasoline modifier. We're not talking heat, here! We're talking chemistry. -Ted Hart
[ chembustion at yahoo dot com ]
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Old 02-14-2007, 07:29 AM   #15
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Nope, I never even heard of vapor lock up until I posted this on here. Like I said, I'm not very proficient under the hod of a car. That's why I posted my intentions here first. I'm not going for full vapor anymore but instead will be targeting a figure just under 200 degrees.

But I'm definitely interested in what you have created.
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Old 02-14-2007, 04:56 PM   #16
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Hey repete 86 do u have a auto because i try so gard and cant get even close to those #'s with my 1993 accord ex so if you can give me a little insight to your techniques it would be awsome.
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Old 02-14-2007, 06:42 PM   #17
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Originally Posted by theclencher View Post
For your consideration:

My engine at 141 CID at, say, 2,000 rpm (just under 55 mph cruise) would intake perhaps 119,850 cubic feet of air in a minute (at 85% volumetric efficiency) or about 2,000 cubic feet of air every second. Take whatever mass that would be and multiply that by .068 to figure the mass fuel being burned too (at stoichiometric 14.7:1). The point of all this is I doubt fuel temp is even a factor because of how little fuel there is vs. air SO the fuel could be hot or the fuel could be cold; I bet the minute amount of fuel is going to assume the temp of the air.
True, but the goal is to get the fuel to expand before hitting the air so that the injectors will inject less fuel into the air-fuel mixture.
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Old 02-14-2007, 06:51 PM   #18
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Hey repete 86 do u have a auto because i try so gard and cant get even close to those #'s with my 1993 accord ex so if you can give me a little insight to your techniques it would be awsome.
For starters, mine's a DX. It has a leaner burning engine and weighs less.

I drive very, very slowly. When acceerating, I'm always getting passed by trucks with full loads. I do this so that it will shift at arouns 2k rpm's. It's a *****, and takes alot of practice before you get used to the horns, fingers and brights, but I think that it makes quite a difference. Secondly, this is Florida and it's hot out. Thirdly, I never, under any circumstances turn on the AC and only open the window a crack when I need a cigarette. When on the highway, I coast at the speed that my torque converter locks up. This is the sweet spot on this car where peak mileage is hit. I've also been putting acetone into the gas tank which I think is cleaning the fuel system out. Whenever I remove it, the mileage tends to consistently drop.

My cooling system is also ****ed up, which I think helps it out. The car is definitely running hot, though nowhere near redline. I think that my thermostat is broken because it's normally at about 1/3 on the thermometer, but lately has been almost 2/3 (whatever temp that is).

I try to avoid driving in the city whenever possible. I generally bike or walk if it's less than five miles and I don't have to carry too much. The city mileage isn't very good. I've just gotten good on the highway with it.
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Old 02-14-2007, 10:07 PM   #19
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Oh, I'm not heating it that early. I'm looking into heating it right before it goes into the fuel rails. I'm not positive yet, but I think that I'm going to run a fuel line extension in front of the engine and wrap it around the coolant hose leading to the radiator then back into the fuel rail. I don't want to heat it in the tank. That would be too dangerous.
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Old 02-14-2007, 10:18 PM   #20
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That sucks. Think that the gas will cool by the time it gets back to the tank near the rear axle?
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