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Old 07-08-2008, 03:50 AM   #11
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[QUOTE=1993CivicVX;109929] I'm really mechanically uninclined.

You could always go to Auto Zone and pick up a service manual for your car. They are less than $20. and most of them give step by step instructions to do about anything you need to do to a car. When you have a problem get it out and study it before starting and if you are still not comfortable with making the repair yourself you can have the service manual right there with you while doing the job or if it's something you don't have the tools to do such as major engine or transmission repair then you can always get a mechanic. Just remember most mechanics are now getting $75-100 dollars per hour. You can save yourself a bundle of money and most things are not that hard after you study it a little bit.
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Old 07-09-2008, 07:19 AM   #12
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Changing the radiator on your car is extremely easy. The thermostat is only slightly harder. You really don't need a good mechanic. If you're not willing to do it yourself, any shade tree mechanic will do. Sometimes you can get an auto parts store employee to do it for you on the side.
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Old 07-09-2008, 02:17 PM   #13
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Oh, man, this is very frustrating. $505 is what it's going to cost. This is includes a new radiator, new radiator cap, and a new thermostat--(he didn't mention replacing hoses.) This isn't even an estimate. This is what he is charging.

Let me ask you this. How does installing a new radiator compare to doing the rear brakes? Because I found doing the rear brakes (drums) on my VX to be daunting and outside my ability. My friend and I didn't manage, and he was doing most of the work because I didn't know what to do.

Thanks guys for the encouragement, but I'm just not sure this would be a good idea.
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Old 07-09-2008, 02:38 PM   #14
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Wow, maybe I should start doing mechanical work on the side if I could get $500 for replacing a radiator.

It really isn't bad at all to change a radiator. For that kind of money (and he's probably only putting in a plastic tanked radiator), I'd take the plunge and do it. I think you'll find it is not too bad. Rear brakes can be confusing cause the whole thing seems to fall apart and then you have to fit it back together and fight some springs to do it. I find rear brakes are a PIA.

Just give yourself the time to do it (hopefully this isn;t your only vehicle so you aren't stuck while you're working on it) and post some questions if you run into any issues.
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Old 07-09-2008, 02:58 PM   #15
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I've never done radiators, but I doubt they can be as confusing or intimidating as rear drum brakes. Possibly more physically difficult due to having to take a large item out of a small space.

Rear drum brakes, though...You open them up and there's a million springs and linkages and swivels and mounts and assorted small parts, and no indication of how they come apart nor how they go back together.
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Old 07-09-2008, 03:36 PM   #16
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrmad View Post
Wow, maybe I should start doing mechanical work on the side if I could get $500 for replacing a radiator.

It really isn't bad at all to change a radiator. For that kind of money (and he's probably only putting in a plastic tanked radiator), I'd take the plunge and do it. I think you'll find it is not too bad. Rear brakes can be confusing cause the whole thing seems to fall apart and then you have to fit it back together and fight some springs to do it. I find rear brakes are a PIA.

Just give yourself the time to do it (hopefully this isn;t your only vehicle so you aren't stuck while you're working on it) and post some questions if you run into any issues.
Some radiators are real easy, drain the coolant, undo two hose clamps, pull off hoses, undo two bolts pull out rad, slide in new rad, push on hoses, do up hose clamps, refill coolant. I've done it in half an hour before.

Rear brakes, a handy thing to have are some long nose vice grips, good ones that don't twist or scissor, then you have purchase on the spring without worrying about having to keep pressure on the handles to keep hold of it, and you can pull it into place much easier. Worst thing I find about rear brakes on Marvin is cleaning, regreasing and re-torquing the bearings, the brake bit of it is half an hour a side tops, even if it cusses you, but it takes another half an hour a side or so fussing with the bearings. Unless that is you don't buy all new hardware and spend half an hour cleaning up and lubing the self adjusters or something coz you're cheap.
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Old 07-09-2008, 03:42 PM   #17
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what about installing the new thermostat? What's involved there?
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Old 07-09-2008, 03:43 PM   #18
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Oh yes, round here the wreckers are stupid on some stuff like radiators, I can get a NEW one with decent warranty for $80, and I've had this conversation with wreckers before
RW: How much for a rad?
Wrecker: $60
RW: pshphwhat?
Wrecker: I know what they're worth!
RW: So do I, see ya.

Any part that has wear/lifespan issues, not like a light lens or something, I won't pay more than about a third of it's new cost, it's just not worth my time installing something that might only have 6 months in it.
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Old 07-09-2008, 03:51 PM   #19
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Thermostat, typically, unless it's at the bottom of the motor, drain some coolant, like a quart, sometimes you don't even need to bother with that if it's clearly the high spot of the system, but stick a tub undeneath to catch the few oz you lose anyway. Then undo hose clamp, take hose off, carefully if you didn't drain much and hold it high. Undo bolts on housing, two or three, might need to break it loose if it's sealed on, so block of wood against the housing and tap it with a hammer, pull it off, might need to wriggle the thermostat loose if it's scaled in, use pliers, scrape old gasket/sealant off housing and block, get it chemically clean with brake cleaner, acetone, alcohol etc, if you've got a RTV free gasket, just drop the new stat in, put the gasket on, put the housing on, torque the bolts to spec, (Prolly around 15ft/lb) if it's intended to be used with rtv, put thin bead on block and housaing, loop around the holes, assemble with new stat inside, tighten it down finger tight, go have tea or lunch (leave half hour at least), now torque it. Black RTV has always been "no fail" for me. Refill coolant, run and test for leaks.
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Old 07-09-2008, 04:00 PM   #20
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How much would someone be willing to pay for my car? I doubt the head gasket has been warped but no guarantee on that. Just curious what someone might be willing to offer me--I'll prolly just bight the bullet and go ahead with the repair.
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