Oil Change Intervals

[mjo]

Originally Posted by karnovking

They say diesel engines are dirty and need oil changes more frequently, so I figured if our trucks are still going strong on that oil, then my gasoline car ought to be okay for a lot longer than 3K on the oil change.

Diesel trucks use diesel oil that has more additives than regular motor oil.

[Mayhim]

I take care of five vehicles. Four get 5k mile interval changes except Wife's car. It gets 3k mile intervals.

All get 5w-30. Daughter & Wife get Valvoline High Mileage to keep seals happy. My stuff gets Pennzoil Platinum.

Purolator oil filters all around.

[101mpg]

About 6,000 miles on the Altima between oil changes. I go for a medium brown - probably could keep it in about 8,500 I think.

Religiously at 8,500 on my wife's 2004 Malibu Maxx. It's got (and I read up on this - it works) a countdown timer which varies with use. Her oil is slightly darker at changes than what I put in the Altima.

I can tell when her oil filter plugs up (and both filters are too dinky) because mileage goes up - basically the bypass valve lets it through and that means that particulates can damage the engine. One tank on that and it gets changed immediately.

On the Frontier pickup I would go 35,000 on Amsoil, filter changes at 17,500, still probably overkill.

Monitoring oil color and having it tested (I do both) give you a great idea when it should be changed.

If you REALLY want to extend oil life, use Amsoil (and everyone will chime in with their favorite synthetic here) and a double filter setup. Involves a little plumbing but I know a guy with over a million miles on his Jeep and he's never changed it - just adds oil when he changes the massive 1-quart filter - which is a double filter setup. Really. Know the guy personally.

[GasSavers_SD26]

Originally Posted by mjo

Diesel trucks use diesel oil that has more additives than regular motor oil.

Well, it has a package that allows the oil to have a higher base number, but it doesn't have the friction modifiers that a non diesel oil has. Similarly, you don't want to run oils that haver reasonably current car oil specifications for the friction modifier package in a motorcycle with a wet clutch or a sprague clutch starter design.

[Dynamically Aero]

to what said by STSinNYC, Mr. Incredible and 101mpg.

Remember, BITOG is your (well-informed) friend.

[GasSavers_Erik]

Originally Posted by SD26

you don't want to run oils that haver reasonably current car oil specifications for the friction modifier package in a motorcycle with a wet clutch or a sprague clutch starter design.

Whoops- so what type of oil should I be using in my wet clutch motorcycle? Keep in mind that I use cheap stuff.

So you're saying that the modern oils too slippery and keep the clutch from grabbing like it should?

I don't drive my bike hard at all.

[GasSavers_SD26]

You'd have to find old application API standards, SG/SF, or go to something diesel. Shell Rotella T is a good oil. I have heard that Walmart's self branded oil is produced by Shell.

I usually use Shell Rotella T for break in, then move to their synthetic after that for my racing application.

[GasSavers_Dust]

I used Delo and Rotella T-Syn in my bike without a problem. I can’t remember the rating, it’s been a while since I’ve had the bike, but there is a certain manufacturer rating from Allison or CAT or someone, and the engine uses a wet clutch, and the oil is recommended for it, which should translate to the same thing for a bike. You would have to search BITOG or a motorcycle forum. it used to be believed that the moly is what was causing the problem, but the big shot of moly in the Chevron Delo never seemed to cause problems with my clutch at a 3K mile interval.

[GasSavers_Dust]

Found it. It's JASO, and you can do a search at BITOG and read all about it.

[JESSE69]

Gee, Amsoil is so hard to find anywhere! I might have tried it if it was $7 at a major auto store. How much does it actually cost per quart?