Wow, that definitely sounds like a pain. Thanks for the heads up. I'll be careful with the brake line and may see if there is any play first before attempting the soak/removal. I believe mine 'may' be easier, but we'll see. At worst, I may just replace the one that I know had the gouge since it doesn't seem like the replacement seal seated itself well. So, failure during operation is 'somewhat' of a concern. More of an issue of slowly leaking brake fluid, though that seems to not be a problem currently.
^Ha, I used the method of inserting bolts yesterday to remove the one drum with the wheel cylinder suspect, and I gave myself a good blister before realizing pliers or a wrench would've been great once it was at the point of pushing off of the wheel hub. Ouch!
its always best to replace both at the same time wheel cyl wise, if you happen to kink the line you might as well cut the other side of as its easier usually to replace both lines at the same time than one or the other, this also depends on your brake setup tho.
owning a chevette you get to know brake systems VERY VERY thoroughly, im sure anyone else who has knows what im talking about haha
most likely you wont be able to get the brake line out of the old one short of twisting the line till it kinks, then you gotta replace the line which can be a major pain in the butt.
This is exactly what happened to my VX when I went to replace a rear wheel cylinder due to a snapped bleeder valve. Had to go to the parts store, get a short straight chunk of metric brake line and bend up a new one.