Oh yeah... Do not know how soon you would need to get it back together... But if you think you find something that should work, both Swagelock and Earl's have locations near me (closest Swagelock to you is in Billerica, MA, but I think you might be able to order directly off of Swagelock's site if you sign up for an account). I actually get a discount at Earl's that might help out a bit too if you find anything from them you might want. Would do it for the cost of the parts, gas and shipping (could estimate total cost before you ordered).
This Swagelock says it's for brass tube but I bet it's just fine for steel tube; steel+brass is obviously ok, since that's how the car was already built anyway...: http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Swage...ssoriesQ5fGear
Under $5 shipped, already at a right angle, could be just right.
I would guess the Dorman would probably be fine. Probably not as high a pressure rating as a Swagelock, but still better than just sliding on a rubber line with a crimp/clamp.
I would stay away from the brass Swagelock on Ebay and look for a stainless one if you decide to go that route. Some metals tend to react with each other and even though I am sure it would probably be fine, why risk it.
Also, the right angle is good, but you would then still have to put hard tubing on each end and then figure out how to attach the tubing to the carb. The Swagelock with Earl's fittings I posted should hopefully get you to just put the Swagelock on the stock line and screw the Earl's into the carb. Just something to think about.
Yeah- that dorman compression fitting will do the same thing as the Swagelock- for less money too. You may even be able to find one at your local Lowe's/Home Depot in the plumbing section.
When I use the rubber hose over a metal tube method, I rough up the outside of the tube a little with a file to reduce the possibility of it sliding off (along with 2 clamps on each end)- but even though it has always worked for me, I concede that it is not a failproof method of repair.
You will need a nice clean, square cut for the compression fitting to work- so you'll need to use a tubing cutter (the type that rotates around the tube and scribes a groove) to make the cut.
One thing to note is that compression fittings require that the end of the pipes be perfectly round. If its not perfectly round due to the bending process used, or just 30 years of riding in that engine bay and being knocked around every time the carb, distributor, or water pump was worked on, it won't seal right.
A tubing cutter will not work. I would have to remove the line from the car, and if I'm going to do that then it will be worth trying to find a complete replacement line (or having one bent). I'll also need a new everything else between there and the gas tank.
My dremel with a diamond cutoff can cut it just fine without de-rounding it, if it's currently round at all.
I went to 3 auto parts stores. They all have straight tube but no right-angle tube that will work. Two of them tried to bend the tube for me and failed, kinking it.