When I get stuck, I move on to something else and allow the old problem to stew for awhile. I have a cooling problem (possibly a trapped air bubble) that I can't work out, despite excellent help from R.I.D.E. and others. Thanks so much to all who replied! I put it on the back burner because I went in to test my radiator cap (It tested okay) and figured I'd get a new one anyway. Well, the radiator cap is WRONG. The replacement caps don't fit the stem! I don't know what to do! The cap that is on there may not be working correctly (not allowing coolant into the overflow bottle). Do replacement radiators use different caps? I'll post pics, perhaps...
I thought I'd do something easier, so I settled on putting in a new clutch. Strangely enough, this IS proving easier! Except for the notorious "***** pin" everything is going well. The manual and Hayne's suggest replacing the following:
1. The "*****" pin (Extension Rod Spring Pin)
2. Halfshaft set rings
3. Exhaust pipe gaskets
4. Castlenut Cotterpin
5. Tension Nut on the suspension fork.
Is it really necessary to replace all of these?
My second question, if you aren't bored, is this:
The inside of the transmission bell housing is oiled up like crazy!
Is this the result of a bad rear main seal?
I am taking the flywheel off anyway, so I guess I should just replace the rear main seal (175,000 miles). Any strange sticking points on the removal or replacement that anyone has heard of?
There are better Honda specific experts than I when it comes to seal removal and replacement.
Nissan rear oil seals are easy, just be careful to not damage the seal when installing, and use something to make sure you have it even.
On Nissans the tranny has a front cover that supports the throwout bearing, and it is removeable without any other tranny disassembly. You do have to remove the cover to install the seal from the back side.
Best way to install seals is to use a socket that is slightly larger than the seal so you can bump it in place evenly. In some cases that is not possible, just dont mangle it or use something that could distort the seal.
I would replace both seals to insure you do not get fluid on your new clutch, which will ruin it and make you have to do the whole job over.
On 84-87 civics, one can disconnect the shifter linkage by removing the undercar bolt that hooks the long shift rod to the base of the shifting stick. This leaves the pain pin in and leaves the shift rod attached to the tranny. It is a little more awkward to pull this way, but not as bad as messing with that silly pin.
I don't know if you can do it this way on the newer civics but I thought I would mention it.
I have never replaced the castle nut cotter pins or axle snap rings when I do Honda clutches and have had no problems.
Gary... I got it in there, it was shaky though. One side kept sliding in while the other was all the way out. I finally got it started and tapped it lightly in all the way around. Did not go as smoothly as I had hoped. Couldn't really use a socket, as the seal is like 4" diameter. Thanks for the advice again.
Erik... I managed to get that pin out with a pin punch and left no scratches on the pin (so back to Harbor Freight it goes!). Will reuse the various parts. Even the parts department of my Honda Dealer out here acts like I am an alien for driving a car older than six years. They make them to last and then act like you're crazy for driving it for years!
I managed to get that pin out with a pin punch and left no scratches on the pin
FYI, hammering the pin out tends to do a number on the transmission bushing that supports that shaft and its associated oil seal. The safest way to remove it is to get a 1/4" drive (or whatever fits really) deep socket whose outside diameter is slightly smaller than the hole for the ***** pin (similar to your punch in that respect) and another socket whose inside diameter is a little larger than that hole. You put the small socket against the pin, the larger one on the opposite side to support the shaft, and push the two together with a large clamp. You will end up pushing the small socket into the hole, forcing the pin out the opposite side, into the larger socket. Since the small socket is a little smaller than the pin, it should just fall out when you remove the clamp. Similarly, the pin should fall out of the big socket.
To reinstall the pin, do the same thing but without the sockets... Start the pin in the hole and then press it in with the clamp. Just be sure the pin is going in straight.
It's a roll pin that connects the shifter linkage to the shaft on the transmission. This shaft rotates (by moving the shift knob left and right) and slides in and out of the transmission (moving the shift knob forward or back) to select gears. It's a spring that gets squeezed into an inconveniently located hole and left to rust for years on end. The irritation commonly experienced when trying to remove it have resulted in it being informally labeled "the bi*ch pin".
the best way to deal with the pin is to not touch it when i did my clutch i jus dropped the entire shifter linkage with the trans its 2 bolts that connect the shifter to the car, rite were the linkage goes thru the floor so i just took off shifter nob and dropped everything