Read my spark plug...

[GasSavers_Erik]

Carbon removal- another "free" option for carbon removal (besides the Italian tuneup) is misting water into the intake like with a pump up type garden sprayer while you rev the engine.

I have even heard of people pouring water into a V8's carb with it reved to 2-3K rpms. I knew a guy who did this and his engine suffered no ill effects.

Supposedly the steam loosens the carbon. Some evidence has shown that cylinders with slight coolant ingress have very little carbon compared to the others when the engine is taken apart for repair.

[theholycow]

Good point, I forgot about that option. Should I save that for just before an oil change, like Seafoam? Or should I not worry about it since water will just boil off?

[GasSavers_Erik]

The water should just boil off if any extra gets past the rings as steam.

[theholycow]

I tried the cheap octane booster with less than 1/4 showing on the fuel gauge, so no more than 5 gallons left in the tank. I was still able to make it knock. I can't say for sure if it helped at all but it didn't totally prevent knock.

Before I did that, though, I found out that it won't knock when it's cold (or even warm but not hot). I had to drive it for a half hour, including 15 minutes at 65mph on the highway, before I could make it knock. I've read that the Buick 4.1 is tough to keep cool. I suspect that mine runs pretty hot. Then there's that hot underhood air that it uses. I wonder if I should add a lower-temp thermostat and fan clutch to my list.

So, my list of things to try...
- CAI
- carbon removal (Seafoam? Italian tune-up? Water?)
- port vacuum (probably fail but it's way easy and free)
- EGR
- retard timing
- octane
- cooling (fan clutch and thermostat)

A rubber pipe from the S10 is a nice fit for part of the CAI if I do it.


I could probably sneak it right through that space to the right of the radiator and have it breathe directly behind the grille.

[JanGeo]

Just read this thread . . . Going back to the plugs for a moment, they are too hot but it may be from the threads not making clean contact with the heads to keep them cool. What is the grayish looking stuff on the threads? Those center electrodes look a bit burnt out too and sharp corners on them make it spark better under heavy loads.

Vacuum advance from the intake is ok unless the engine is cold then it tends to stall it at idle a little.

[theholycow]

The stuff on the threads is anti-seize.

[JanGeo]

I thought so but you want to use stuff that conducts heat, like the copper paste good for up to 1800 degrees. I still need to check mine since last year or two? Since I changed to irridium plugs and put the copper antiseize on mine. Your plugs are almost blistering and if they are that clean then they for sure are causing some knocking under heavy load when they get really hot.

[theholycow]

I still have the same tube of anti-size. I'll have to check but I thubj it's this:

[JanGeo]

Contains high percentage of micro-fine copper flakes in a semi-synthetic grease carrier
Fortified with high quality rust and corrosion inhibitors
Temperature range: -30F to 1800F
Provides good electrical conductivity
Suggested Applications; Spark plug threads installed in aluminum, exhaust manifold bolts, engine bolts, oxygen sensors, knock sensors, thermostat housing bolts, fuel filter fittings and battery cable connections

I got the really big plastic jar . . . Will never use that much in my life!

This is the copper stuff . . . Now if I can switch screens and get the product number yessss f-in iPad keeps screwing with my text!

Permatex 09128 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant - 8 Oz.




Permatex 09128 Copper Anti-Seize Lubricant - 8 Oz.
by*Permatex

[theholycow]

Ok, checked my anti-seize. It says the exact same stuff on it, including the bit about spark plugs.

Well...I flogged it quite a bit on this tank while testing its new acceleration ability and checking for knock, and still had the best well-measured tank ever. Looks like that straight manifold vacuum advance was a good move.