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Old 08-25-2006, 11:09 AM   #21
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Hey there, onegammyleg! Thanks for the input, it's nice to have you around as a new member. Don't forget to make an intro thread!
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Old 08-26-2006, 05:35 AM   #22
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I've noticed many, many times that when a mod is proposed that someone...with out fail....will introduce the FEAR FACTOR or the RIDICULE FACTOR.

Not saying that taking care and so forth are not a good thing...just making an observation.....

Ridicule and fear are NOT scientific testing methods.

They are emotional games?
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Leading the perpetually ignorant and uninformed into the light of scientific knowledge. Did I really say that?

a new policy....I intend to ignore the nescient...a waste of time and energy.
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Old 08-26-2006, 06:16 AM   #23
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onegammyleg
Howdy all...
The statement at --
¨11. Perhaps you still have a carburetor or you own a beautiful antique automobile. I often soldered or plugged the power value shut in many kinds of carburetors to prevent enriching the fuel mixture unnecessarily. ---You will not even notice anything except smoother operation and a lower gas expense with improved mileage.¨ --is WAY WRONG !

Plugging or disonecting someway the power valve circuit in a carby will result in a stammer (which if serious enough could stall out the engine) when flooring it from idle.
Not the best thing at the lights or across a busy intersection when you need immediate zip.
Other effects can be burnt head valves from lean out conditions or increased seat wear.
Also the engine will be noticeably weak in acceleration when going say from a 3/4 to full throttle condition in any gear.
Bottom line , BAD ADVICE !

In fact ,..that whole article was a complete joke.

gregW:-)

100hp Fiat 128 1100cc 40mpg
std-hp 72 Toyota corola 60mpg
Here's one for ya. I bought a 650 demon carb for 351c. The guy said it had a good base jet setting. I ran full throtle with water injection on. Engine ran very well. I turned water off. It was crackleing out the exhuast. I did research on the carb. It was 15.5 AFR out of the box. But why water dosn't burn?
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Old 08-26-2006, 09:41 AM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZugyNA
I've noticed many, many times that when a mod is proposed that someone...with out fail....will introduce the FEAR FACTOR or the RIDICULE FACTOR.

Not saying that taking care and so forth are not a good thing...just making an observation.....

Ridicule and fear are NOT scientific testing methods.

They are emotional games?
Emotional games: "The government and every business in the world is in a conspiracy to rule your life so you can pay 500 extra dollars a year for gas. No one is honest except for me. Everyone wants to poison your gas tank. Now, listen to me solve the problem."

Logic: If acetone improves vaporization of fuel, and fuel is almost already completed vaporated by a stock injector, then where's the gain going to come from? Mehbe I'm just scared, but I tried it on two seperate occasions with two different fuel injection systems on my car; you can guess what happened.
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Old 12-04-2006, 09:13 AM   #25
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZugyNA
Bottom line on LaPointe (as far as I know) is that he tests 99% driveline mods for fuel economy.

As far as his political views...my guess is that if the acetone was added to fuel in bulk...there MIGHT be around a 10% avg gain in fuel economy...cleaner air. But no war profits though.
Ten percent gain? That's a lot! A whole lot!
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Old 12-04-2006, 09:25 AM   #26
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Originally Posted by maxc
But why water dosn't burn?
No, water doesn't burn.... It reacts, chemically! This feature of water makes it unique;ie, rusting (iron oxide) forms when water...in any form / amount ...combines chemically with iron-based metals. Want a faster rusting? Heat the iron! Weld beads rust very fast...from the moisture in the air. Liquid water is as different from water vapor(a gas) as liquid is different from ice! It's all water...just the states are different!
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Old 12-04-2006, 09:35 AM   #27
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Originally Posted by MetroMPG
IMHO, it's the only valid way to test any kind of mod, additive, etc. - and only if cruise control is used (takes the driver's foot out of the equation .... It's the closest we can get to a dynamometer.
Ahem! Take the driver's foot out of the equation? My foot (on the accelerator) can beat your blind, brainless cruise control any day, any time, under any conditions! I promise you! Cruise control has no eyes, judgement, or sense of smoothness (it's "on", "off", "on", "off" ... just what you don't want! No modulation...no gradients!
The closest thing we can get to a (chassis) dyno? I'm afraid not!
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Old 12-04-2006, 09:49 AM   #28
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Ted, you missed my main point:

Quote:
it's the only valid way to test any kind of mod
I'm not arguing that cruise is most efficient. I'm saying that it's most consistent, and it also removes operator bias from testing.

Like you, I can also beat my cruise control hands down at FE. But I can't be as consistent as it is for testing purposes, and I doubt you could either.
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Old 02-20-2007, 06:06 PM   #29
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Not to be a jerk, but I disagree a bit w/ onegammeyleg. I have done alot of carb tuning on my '68 Charger. My Charger has a high lift, long duration camshaft (.509 lift on intake and exhaust w/ 292 duration) which causes a low intake manifold vaccum manifold condition. I was having problems with the 383 stalling a bit at takeoff due to too much fuel. Demon (similar to Holley) recommended a plug for the power valve because of my low vacuum (4 in of Hg). It worked for me b/c of my engine combo. I also assume that a plug wouldn't hurt or help a factory motor if the person was driving with FE in mind.

I agree the article is completely wack 'n all, but lets not jump to extremes concerning carb tuning techniques. There's alot to it.

By the way, the Charger is a rarely driven toy...the Civic gets the daily driving and the FE.
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Old 02-21-2007, 07:02 AM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by onegammyleg View Post
Howdy all...
The statement at --
?11. Perhaps you still have a carburetor or you own a beautiful antique automobile. I often soldered or plugged the power value shut in many kinds of carburetors to prevent enriching the fuel mixture unnecessarily. ---You will not even notice anything except smoother operation and a lower gas expense with improved mileage.? --is WAY WRONG !

Plugging or disonecting someway the power valve circuit in a carby will result in a stammer (which if serious enough could stall out the engine) when flooring it from idle.
Not the best thing at the lights or across a busy intersection when you need immediate zip.
Other effects can be burnt head valves from lean out conditions or increased seat wear.
Also the engine will be noticeably weak in acceleration when going say from a 3/4 to full throttle condition in any gear.
Bottom line , BAD ADVICE !

In fact ,..that whole article was a complete joke.

gregW:-)

100hp Fiat 128 1100cc 40mpg
std-hp 72 Toyota corola 60mpg
Plugging the power valve(s) in my 780 Holley really improves the performance! I do NOT know where you are coming from! Do you? Power valves are for economy...taking the "load" from the main jets at cruise... especially if the jets are "sized" (leaned) for this compromise! Proper A/F ratio with power valves is impossible! "Burned valves"? On what planet?
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