Electric conversion: Project ForkenSwiift - Page 86 - Fuelly Forums

Android Users - Coming Soon! - Migrating from aCar 4.8 to 5.0

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Old 11-04-2007, 06:52 PM   #851
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I picked it up this evening. We've got a few issues.
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Old 11-04-2007, 06:58 PM   #852
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Also: since last posting, our 24v charger stopped working.... and with help from an EVDL E.E., I fixed it! (It was a burnt out SCR on the circuit board, which I replaced/upgraded to a more robust component on his advice.)
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Old 11-05-2007, 06:24 AM   #853
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It's so cool how you ev people help each other out so much!

Whatever happened with that batteries you just got?
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Old 11-05-2007, 06:47 AM   #854
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Yeah, the EV community is pretty awesome.
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Old 11-05-2007, 09:13 AM   #855
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hey when you find out which of the batts are strong and weak, i dont know if you know but there was an article somewhere telling how to arrange them so that you get the most power out of them.
The battery resistance causes the batteries closest to the power connectors, depending on how arranged, are drained faster.

Edit: heres the link: http://www.reuk.co.uk/Interconnectin...ttery-Bank.htm
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Old 11-05-2007, 03:52 PM   #856
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That's really interesting!

The example only discusses a parallel string though - four batteries of the same type connected so the pack voltage is the same as the nominal individual battery voltage. I'm not sure it applies to a series connected pack, though, which is what most EVs use (though some use several series strings which are then paralleled, or a series string with each battery having a buddy (individually paralleled neighbour).

EDIT: there was actually a discussion in the EVDL about where to place the ammeter shunt in a series connected pack to measure current. The poster asked: will I get the same current reading if I connect the ammeter at the end of the pack vs. somewhere in the middle, between 2 batteries?

The answer was: in a series pack, current flow is equal through all batteries. So I think the example you linked to only applies where batteries are paralleled. Still good info though.
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Old 11-06-2007, 04:26 PM   #857
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
3) A weird rubbery squeak/graunch type sound when the drivetrain is loaded up abruptly from a stop. It's either a motor/tranny mount complaining or the rubber spider in the motor/tranny coupler. Need to investigate.
It's a transmisison mount on the driver's side "frame rail". There seems to be a lot of play in the big rubber bushing, plus it makes the funny sound when the drivetrain is torqued up.
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Old 11-06-2007, 08:19 PM   #858
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For anyone who might be interested in joining the Electric Vehicle discussion mailing list (EVDL), the link above (http://www.madkatz.com/ev/evlist.html) contains outdated subscription info. The current info is at

http://www.evdl.org/

Thanks!
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Old 11-06-2007, 08:25 PM   #859
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Thanks for pointing that out - I changed the earlier reference too.
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Old 11-07-2007, 05:03 AM   #860
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG View Post
It's a transmisison mount on the driver's side "frame rail". There seems to be a lot of play in the big rubber bushing, plus it makes the funny sound when the drivetrain is torqued up.

Question is: do those bushings fail and allow excessive play? Or am I just hearing a new noise with potentially the same amount of play that was there before?
The rubber in these mounts does tend to dry rot, crack, and fail, causing a loose mount. The cheapest and easiest solution is to go to AutoZone (do they even have those in CA?) or equivalent, and get a product that comes in a caulk tube called 3M Windo Weld:



Get a caulk gun, load this up, pull the mount out of the car, and just fill all the voids in the rubber part of the mount with it. Let it cure for about 24 hours before putting it back in the car. I have in the past purchased urethane inserts for my mounts and even expensive urethane mounts, but this stuff is 90% as good and WAY cheaper. It is messy though!
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