At first glance, it appears to be very similar to the torque monster we have. (Had - it's sold, but the guy hasn't come to get it yet.)
The main difference appears to be the big internal fan on our drive end, so it's a bit longer overall @ 15.5 inches (not counting shaft). You might have to set up forced air cooling (depending on what kind of range/amps you're going to be dealing with.
Did you get a coupler with it? Are you going to mod something to work with the square shaft, or get a round shaft pressed in?
I'm still on the fence about whether or not I'd retain the flywheel if I had to do this over again. I'm getting used to driving the car clutchless (including downshifting, which was a bit of a problem before I figured out the right technique).
The motor dataplate lists it as an A-9044-Y4, no specs on it though.
I take it you saw the info I posted from EVDL motor guru Jim Husted, on forkenswift.com:
I've never seen that motor [... edit - the forkenswift motor...] but know it's cousin the Baker 9044-Y4. From what I can see the only diference is the Y4 had 3 wires per slot and had more comm bars than your armature, which makes your rated for a higher voltage being the Y4 was rated at just 36 volts OEM. The Y4's were a good harty motor and that might make a really great medium voltage race motor if you EVer decide to make your mark on NEDRA 8^)
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Got the gas engine out of the RX7 yesterday. Currently trying to figure out how to mate the pressure plate to the output shaft of my motor. I'm planning on using the coupler that came with it (square drive lovejoy coupler). The stock RX7 pressure plate doesn't have a flat mating face, it has a bore. Not to mention a massive integral counterweight. I figure my options are to either take the stock pressure plate to a machine shop and have them cut the hell out of it to make it flat on the back side, remove the counterweight, take some un-needed material off of it, and balance it to neutral. That sounds expensive.
I'm also playing with the idea of making my own pressure plate from a flat 3/8" piece of steel. Would already be flat on both sides, would be much lighter (even with some stiffeners welded onto the backside), and I could have that balanced when I'm done. Just curious if the kind of steel I'd get from a steel yard would hold up to the wear ant tear of being used as a friction surface for a clutch.
Oh well. I'll be removing (or attempting to remove) the stock pressure plate tonight and I'll see what my options are with a little more clarity.
On another note, work on my homebrew controller is coming along nicely. Waiting for some P-channel MOSFETs to arrive so that I can couple one with my existing N-channel MOSFET to build a push-pull amplifier for output to the IGBTs. It seems that the IGBT's 'latch' in either the on or off state. This means that the gate requires V+ to turn the C-E on, and a V-(but GND works) to turn it off. Luckily, the PWM output of the chip alternates between +5v and GND for it's cycle, so this should work well to drive the MOSFETs, which then drive the IGBTs. More experimentation to be done, but experiments with a small magnetic radioshack motor show promising results. Since the IGBT's high current/voltage portion is insulated from the gate, It shouldn't matter whether I'm running a CPU fan or my monster 12" motor to the PWM controller. If all goes well, I'll be into the controller for less than $75 in parts.
My total investment is quicky approaching $700 though, and I've still got a fair amount of additional spending to do (welding cable, copper bus-bar for batteries, 1000a shunt, misc parts for the RX7 to make it road-worthy), so I doubt I'll hit my sub $1000 goal. We'll see though.
Here's my PWM motor control as it looked on the breadboard:
I've tested it on my 12" motor and it works, but unfortunately I burned out a couple of my IGBT's by using them without a snubber capacitor. It works fine with the little motor though. I've got some capacitors and a heatsink on the way, so another high-current test will take place at that point.