Lawn Mower Poll

[theholycow]

Originally Posted by VetteOwner

one of the bad designs honda used is in the self propelled system, yea it worked great but the control lever on the gearbox itself is cable operated(not a problem) but that lever is plastic and pretty much pushes on a small metal plate that pushes a gear into the gearbox to engage self propelled. that stupid plastic lever wears out causing the gear to not fully engage or it engages, hit a bump disengages. usually adjusting the cable can "fix" this till it wears all out then oh joy! get to replace the whole gearbox...

Well, worst case scenario, when that happens you just ignore it and now you have a human-propelled mower. You enjoyed self-propulsion for however many years it lasted and now it's over.

I think I've mentioned this before, but front wheel drive on a push mower is great. You never have to fiddle with the drive while you mow; just engage it and lever down slightly on the handle when you disagree with what it wants to do.

also the all plastic mowing decks alot of honda mowers have aren't any lighter than the metal counterparts, hondas just saving money trying to tell us its lighter...(gotta have extra thick/alot more plastic to stand up to the mowing forces)

Sounds like a major improvement to the rusted out metal decks seen on craigslist. You're supposed to hose off the underside after you mow, else stuck-on grass will cause corrosion. I never do...so far I haven't had one rust through.

like i said go get the $80 walmart special already!

That, sir, I agree with...if you see one for $80 new and it looks like it'll do the job, jump on it.

IF the B&S ever gives u hard starting usually juts a shot of carb cleaner down/in the intake (just remove the air filter, either one flathead screw or a tab) and then pull it it will fire over.

What brand of carburetor cleaner do you use? The ones I buy always slow/stall engines if you spray it while running and definitely don't help start. I have to keep a can of starting fluid to help start (though I'd prefer a spray can or even a squirt can that could safely hold gasoline).

1 high back wheels, makes turing easier

I've never had them, can you elaborate on that?

[GasSavers_Erik]

Originally Posted by theholycow

Are you sure B&S engines don't have a mechanical governor?

I have been used to working on the old B&S engines with air vane type governor located inside the tin housing above the cylinder.
Perhaps the newer B&S ones do have the mechanical type.

One thing I dislike about all newer mowers is these new flat paper air filters. With the old oiled foam type air filters (older B&S and Tecumseh), you could clean/reoil them easily when they got dirty. Although they did begin to disintegrate after about 20 years...

The newer paper filters can't be cleaned (to my knowledge) and on older mowers with worn piston rings when the crankcase breather tube begins blowing a little oil vapor onto the back of the paper filter, it gets saturated which restricts airflow and the engine starts running rich/becomes hard to start when hot- so then you have to buy another $7 paper filter.

I wonder if the oil soaked paper filters can be cleaned with gasoline or some other suitable solvent.

[Jay2TheRescue]

I would try perchlorethylene (brake cleaner), just make sure you collect the runoff, and don't let it hit the ground. Its bad stuff to get in the water table. Either dump the runoff in with your used motor oil, or let it sit in a plastic container and evaporate off.

[theholycow]

You don't want the brake cleaner to get sucked in to the intake end up getting burned, that exhaust could be extremely toxic.

Read this article:
http://artbikerworld.com/wp-content/...2/87c8ee40.jpg
Guy was welding, inhaled some brake cleaner smoke, ended up in serious condition.

I read that and then a week later I inhaled smoke from a collection of chemicals I was using to un-stick a corroded fastener...I freaked out.

[VetteOwner]

Originally Posted by theholycow

Well, worst case scenario, when that happens you just ignore it and now you have a human-propelled mower. You enjoyed self-propulsion for however many years it lasted and now it's over.

yea true BUT usually all the gearing and stuff make them not as easy to push if thier not engaged (certian designs, some freewheel) i usually just rip them apart and remove the drive gears from the wheels and prolblem solved haha.

I think I've mentioned this before, but front wheel drive on a push mower is great. You never have to fiddle with the drive while you mow; just engage it and lever down slightly on the handle when you disagree with what it wants to do.

i will agree slightly, the part about it being variably self propeled (meaning you slow down it slows down) is great, kinda hard to get used to but nice once u do. Now i LOVE rwd self propel, i mean think about it: going up a hill more weights on the rear of the mower vs the front wheels spinning away as your trying to mow up.

Sounds like a major improvement to the rusted out metal decks seen on craigslist. You're supposed to hose off the underside after you mow, else stuck-on grass will cause corrosion. I never do...so far I haven't had one rust through.

nor have we, i only clean them when it makes a huge clump and affects cutting performance. havent had one rust out yet. as long as you keep it dry from rain they last forever. (ie dont leave it in the yard)

What brand of carburetor cleaner do you use? The ones I buy always slow/stall engines if you spray it while running and definitely don't help start. I have to keep a can of starting fluid to help start (though I'd prefer a spray can or even a squirt can that could safely hold gasoline).

yea you give it a few squirts of carb cleaner then pull the handle, if it doesnt wanna start fully or does that chuggin along spray a tad more. it will bog it some just like seafoam to a car (same idea)

i use all sorts of brands.

I've never had them, can you elaborate on that?

yea thier the 10" back wheels, since thier larger with the axle pivot point up higher it takes less effort/motion to push down on the handle and turn the mower.

[bowtieguy]

i've considered buying a mower w/ high(10") rear wheels, but never could bring myself to pay the premium. the mower i'm considering has 7" fronts and 8" rears--not sure how much that will help tho.

[bowtieguy]

in my continued search for a cheap mower, i checked out a "value" pawn shop--more like a rip off pawn artist! they had a push mower, rear discharge(only), w/out a bag(not interested in one of those, but stay w/ me), 6.5 horse B&G, 21" cut, 7" wheels for...$170...ARE YOU KIDDING?!!!

i can get a NEW 22" 5.5hp side discharge, w/ no bag purchase necessary for $135 w/ my coupon. for the added price of the bag, i could get a self propelled one!

this reminds me of sears trying to rip off old folks when they offered to "tune up" your mower for the season. they would sharpen the blade and replace the spark plug for $49.99+tax--they wouldn't even change the oil or clean the filter!

[GasSavers_Erik]

I've noticed that most pawn shops in this area are the same way- most stuff (especially tools) is priced at or over what you could buy it new for.

Maybe ppl are supposed to haggle for a lower price when at pawn shops- I don't see how anyone on a budget would pay the displayed price for used stuff.

[VetteOwner]

dang @ the pawn shop...

if u were closer id sell you one of mine (3 of 4 are ones ive found in garbage piles and fixed up with $5 or less) we have no need for 4 pushmowers and 2 riding mowers!!!

[bowtieguy]

anyone have any experience and opinion of kohler small engines? http://www.kohlerengines.com/home.htm#