2010 XLE V6 Camry 12-16 MPG issue - Page 6 - Fuelly Forums

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Old 04-18-2013, 07:45 AM   #51
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I sure hope you are not paying this mechanic to give you multiple fuel system flushes!

What did the dealership service manager say?

Also, how come you say above that your old Camry got 28mpg but in your profile description you say it got 20.5mpg? Which is it? If your old 2.2l car got 20.5 mpg in your typical driving, I would not be that surprised if this new V6 car got even less.
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Old 04-18-2013, 03:04 PM   #52
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Just got another Fuel Injection Cleaning done and this popped up on UG OBDII meter- P0301 & P0175 Trouble Codes as Pending. Not sure what I should do next. Should I tell the Dealership about this and have it serviced and take a risk on $119.99 Diagnostic's Check again charge or just wait till the CEL comes up on the car?

P0301 Code - Cylinder #1 Misfire

Technical Description

Cylinder #1 Misfire Detected

What does that mean?

A P0301 code means that the the car's computer has detected that one of the engine's cylinders is not firing properly. In this case it's cylinder #1.

Symptoms

Symptoms may include:

the engine may be harder to start the engine may stumble / stumble, and/or hesitate

other symptoms may also be present

Causes

A code P0301 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

Faulty spark plug or wire Faulty coil (pack) Faulty oxygen sensor(s) Faulty fuel injector Burned exhaust valve Faulty catalytic converter(s) Running out of fuel Poor compression

Defective computer

Possible Solutions

If there are no symptoms, the simplest thing to do is to reset the code and see if it comes back.

If there are symptoms such as the engine is stumbling or hesitating, check all wiring and connectors that lead to the cylinders (i.e. spark plugs). Depending on how long the ignition components have been in the car, it may be a good idea to replace them as part of your regular maintenance schedule. I would suggest spark plugs, spark plug wires, distributor cap, and rotor (if applicable). Otherwise, check the coils (a.k.a. coil packs). In some cases, the catalytic converter has gone bad. If you smell rotten eggs in the exhaust, your cat converter needs to be replaced. I've also heard in other cases the problems were faulty fuel injectors.

P0175 OBD-II Trouble Code

Technical Description

System Too Rich (Bank 2)

What does that mean?

Basically this means that an oxygen sensor in bank 2detected a rich condition (too little oxygen in the exhaust). On V6/V8/V10 engines, Bank 2 is the side of the engine that doesn't have cylinder #1.

Note: This DTC is very similar to P0172, and in fact your vehicle may show both codes at the same time.

Symptoms

You will more than likely not notice any drivability problems, although there may be symptoms such as a misfire.

Causes

A code P0175 may mean that one or more of the following has happened:

The MAF (Mass Air Flow) Sensor is dirty or faulty. Note: The use of "oiled" air filters can cause the MAF to become dirty if the filter is over-oiled There could be a vacuum leak.

There could be a fuel pressure or delivery problem

Possible Solutions

Possible solutions include:

Inspect all vacuum and PCV hoses, replace if necessary Clean the MAF sensor. Consult your service manual for it's location if you need help. I find it's best to take it off and spray it with electronics cleaner or brake cleaner. Make sure you are careful not to damage the MAF sensor, and make sure it's dry before reinstalling Inspect fuel lines for cracks, leaks, or pinches Check the fuel pressure at the fuel rail Check the fuel injectors, they may be dirty. Use fuel injector cleaner or get them professionally cleaned/replaced.

Check for an exhaust leak before the first oxygen sensor (this is unlikely to cause the problem, but it is possible)

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Old 04-18-2013, 03:15 PM   #53
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Thanks DTWJR. I agree I will go full tanks soon just been getting so many different answers off Toyota Nation to Fuelly.com about how to fill the tank and track MPG it had me conflicted on who was right and of course you want to believe Trip Mile tracking is accurate since its the cheaper way. Yep I love this car's color waited 18 years for silver. 1995 camry beige was the only color they had. Didn't have Silver Black or White. Never was fond of gold color things seemed a bit loud for my tastes.

Anyhow I have my mechanic to work out a deal in doing Fuel Injection Flushes which I'm still getting thick white smoke and now with the pending TC from UG hoping these multiple Fuel Injection Flushes works out to fix the carbon build up in my car.
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Old 04-19-2013, 01:09 AM   #54
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> ... and of course you want to believe Trip Mile tracking is accurate since

>its the cheaper way.

Could you expand on this point? MPG = miles per gallon. If you know miles and you know gallons... how could you calculate it more accurately than that?
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Old 04-19-2013, 05:54 AM   #55
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Right MMUK, simple and accurate.

rabit75 - When filling you tank I have found it simple to fill to the first click only on ever fill up rather than trying to add more after that. That leads to a more consistent fill up ever time. I'm so OCD I try to use teh same pump at the same station as much as is reasonable.

I'm not sure about these fuel system flushes, and as someone else mentioned earlier in this thread, your car might still be under some warranty coverage. You should see the dealer's service manager about your problem.

My 06 Accord is doing much better overall, but city driving is still not good. I'm thinking of moving downtown so I will drive less, or out in the country so it will be more highway miles. Yes, I'm that crazy.
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Old 04-20-2013, 03:36 PM   #56
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Ok I'm starting to believe that the issue is the idling. I found a Camry 2005 SE that had this issue 10/12/2009. Seems when I idle literally within a few seconds of pulling out it drops from 16 to 15.8 then 15.7 after 5 seconds then 15.5 MPG. Within less than a minute or half idling at a red light I lose almost half to 3/4 of 1 mpg.

Does your MPG flux that rapidly on your dash Tank Average? I feel like a bomb is ticking off on my MPG when I wait for 30 seconds initial warm up it drops down like .3-.5 mpg by the time I hit the road from driving down off my parking lot. Not sure if this is normal.
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Old 04-21-2013, 03:39 AM   #57
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Idling at stop lights is a problem in urban areas and really eats into MPG. I try to select routes that minimize stop n go driving as much as possible. Never let your car idle to "warm up". It's BS. If your trips are short stop n go ones that kills MPG. Kills it! The other thing that kills MPG is speed.
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Old 04-21-2013, 04:15 AM   #58
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> ... 30 seconds initial warm up ...

Yeah just to reinforce the previous poster, never waste fuel 'warming up'. It's bad for the engine as well as bad for MPG. Just start the engine & drive immediately.
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Old 04-21-2013, 07:31 AM   #59
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Is it normal to have MPG drop so fast while the car is in idle? Seems a bit fast to lose that much gas within seconds. If so might be related to MAF or Idle air control valve related.
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Old 04-21-2013, 10:16 AM   #60
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It happens because you are using the trip MPG function. When you just get in the car, you have used very little gas, so the teeny-tiny bit of gas that you use idling makes up a larger percentage of the total that you have used during that TRIP. When you idle after a long journey, it makes zero difference because it's an insignificant percentage of the total.
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