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Old 04-28-2007, 04:36 AM   #21
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Unless you have a V6 with a standard, Almost no old fullsize chevy breaks the 20 MPG hwy barier. The ones that do are few and far between. I believe there are several at 67-72chevytrucks.com though. But they are usally lowered 2wd's. Like this one and he has a 5.7:

http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/s...d.php?t=238227

Start with a 4.3 v6 or 305 v8. Upgrading ignition and rolling valvetrain help FE on these. Getting low gears ratios is a dime a dozen at salvage yards. RV cam's may help too. Carburator or TBI rebuilds will devinatly too. Don't forget converting to electric fan.
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Old 04-28-2007, 05:07 AM   #22
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Originally Posted by DrivenByNothing View Post
A hardbody Nissan pickup can be had for cheap and the motor is pretty torquey for a 4cyl.
The friend I'm building the ForkenSwift with has one of these with a stick - a '95.

Easily gets upper 20's to 30 mpg (US) with conservative driving (and no "advanced" methods). Could exceed that without too much difficulty if you threw some technique and a few mods at it.

I agree about the decent torque - it's quite surprising actually.
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Old 05-19-2007, 12:02 PM   #23
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The 73-87 Chevy halftons are bulletproof, and one of GM's worst mistakes. You still see them on the road everywhere, they are still popular, reliable trucks. And, it's almost the only truck you see that was built in the 70s from any brand. Sure, they are out there but unless you come across an enthusiast show for a different make you will see a dozen old Chevy/GMC full size trucks for any one other make from that era. It was a mistake for GM because every one of those trucks still on the road represents a lost sale of a newer truck.

One thing to watch on these trucks is the frame at the steering box, they are prone to breaking the frame at this point. LMC trucks sells a frame repair/reinforce kit for this problem. Another thing is cab corner rust, they are bad about the rear corners rusting out. Once again, LMC has repair panels.

Mileage is around 13-15MPG on these trucks, even the only fuel injected year, 1987. To get one of these trucks into the mid 20s to low 30s, install a 99+ 4.8L engine with a 5 speed manual, rear end ratio of 3.42 with a 28 to 30 inch tall tire, electric fans, long tube (not shorties!!!) headers, and 2 inch true duals with crossover. The 4.8L in a 99+ reg cab stepside and auto can see 25MPG unloaded with normal driving from the factory, using some of the techniques here might get 35MPG out of it. Other parts I'd install are a fiberglass hood and fenders, and a full size Blazer rear bumper. When looking at Chevy truck weights, for the base reg cab truck with the smallest offered engine the 73-80 truck dry weighs in at 3600lbs, 81-87 3400lbs (lighter frame and fenders), 88-89 3800lbs and 99+ 4000lbs.

The 4.8L engine complete is available (at least to me) at salvage yards for around 2000 dollars, with accessories and bracketry, computer and wiring harness. No idea on the trans. Hoods go for about 400 bucks, ceramic headers another 400 bucks.

Another option would be to get an inline 6 cyl truck, the 250cid inline 6 got pretty decent mileage with a carb. On one of these engines I would rebuild the engine, and have the intake manifold drilled for injectors, and take the computer system from any 4.3L GM truck to operate it. Install the fuel system, hook it up, use the factory throttle body (may have to modify the intake for the TB, or install an adapter) and you'll have a fuel injected inline 6. The inline 6 is a lot more durable than the V8 with a bearing between each connecting rod throw, so it's a lot stronger. About the only way you can blow one up is to run the oil dry, and even that will take a while to kill it.

If you do the new engine, you can also get an aftermarket computer system to operate it. Some of them allow the use of wideband O2 sensors which will allow you to program the truck to run super lean in cruise mode, and richen back up if you have to get into it.

Hope all this helps, GM trucks are kinda my thing
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Old 06-17-2007, 03:15 PM   #24
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1990 or earlier Jeep Comanche pickup with 4.0 I6

1) $1500 will be doable, I bought an 89 with zero rust and a Jasper engine with 20k miles on it for $1200.00 a few months back

2) the 4.0 is well known for +200,000 mile longevity, I would put it right next to the Toyota 22RE, except that it's a LOT more powerful... Interestingly both trucks use Aisin Warner 4 speed autos which are also bullet proof...

3) the pre 91 4.0 is fuel injected using a MPI system called "Renix" which coupled with the lower power (91 and later "High Output" 4.0's got better flowing heads and use more fuel) will get very decent mileage.

4) very capable of 24-25 MPG without any sort of FE mods.

5) Jeep 4 wheel drive = more aftermarket parts, more Web forums (user knowledge base) and proven capability

6) you wont get a Toyota for anywhere near $1500 and they are the only trucks I would compare the Comanche to, for that time frame. Light truck wise anyway
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Old 06-17-2007, 06:32 PM   #25
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Look into getting a mid 80s Toyota Pickup.

We had one and it ran for 235,000 miles. If I do recall, it got decent mileage and it was a 4X4.

The old half ton chevy pickup is absolutely a great buy. The FE is probably not the best, but those are the most reliable trucks on the road. My dad had a 1990 model and ran it from 95,000 to 191,000 and it never once died on him.

something like this....

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Toyot...32190167QQrdZ1
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Old 06-18-2007, 04:01 AM   #26
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I just went thru this last fall and ended up with a Nissan I4 4x4. It's getting around 22 mpg mixed...hope to get it up to 25 or so.

I ended up looking for a Toyota...Nissan...or Ranger...mostly the 4 bangers with manual trans. Though the smaller V6 might do OK with the Ranger.

Always check the frame out for rust...if you can poke a hole thru it...you probably don't want it? Also check the driveline for lose bearings and leaking seals.

Around here they are in high demand. I budgeted about $3K...ended up buying for $1600...but am doing a lot of remedial repair work.

Best bet might be the local free classified papers or maybe Craiglist?
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Old 06-18-2007, 04:48 AM   #27
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I don't know how you will find something like that with 4 wheel drive that gets good mpg. If this is just another car/fun car for offroading and such, why does it really matter? When you engage that 4 wheel low and go wheeling, that is gonna kill your mpg anyways. I have an old Jeep (64 CJ-5) with the 4 cylinder f-head in it, and it's mpg is about as good as a lawnmowers, especially in 4 low. But it sure is fun off the road!!
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Old 06-18-2007, 06:05 AM   #28
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Send a message via AIM to Raccoonjoe Send a message via MSN to Raccoonjoe Send a message via Yahoo to Raccoonjoe
I've got a 96 s-10, with the 2.2L 5sp. It would pull/haul anything I needed it to, had a surprising amount of pep/torque for the 4 banger, and would hit 22-25 MPG with moderate driving, 30 MPG highway @ 70 MPH. I stuck a set of Goodyear Wrangler SR-As on it for the wintertime....that little truck did awesome in the snow, and pretty good off-road for being 2WD.

Remember....Your success in off-roading adventures is 90% driver, 10% vehicle.....




PS - that same 96 s-10 is also for sale...only $1200. 15x,xxx miles, A/C, ext. cab, the works
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Old 06-22-2007, 07:23 PM   #29
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volkswagen used to make a diesel pickup truck based of the rabbit chassis. allegedly got around 40-45mpg i think. doubt it was 4x4 though. can run off of biodiesel too.
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Old 06-22-2007, 10:01 PM   #30
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Raccoonjoe View Post
I've got a 96 s-10, with the 2.2L 5sp. It would pull/haul anything I needed it to, had a surprising amount of pep/torque for the 4 banger, and would hit 22-25 MPG with moderate driving, 30 MPG highway @ 70 MPH. I stuck a set of Goodyear Wrangler SR-As on it for the wintertime....that little truck did awesome in the snow, and pretty good off-road for being 2WD.

Remember....Your success in off-roading adventures is 90% driver, 10% vehicle.....




PS - that same 96 s-10 is also for sale...only $1200. 15x,xxx miles, A/C, ext. cab, the works
yup jus thro maybe 150-200lb sof sand bags back there and your good to go in the winter

and their s-10's their a dime a dozen if you break somehtign or wreck it just got to any junkyard and they will haev the parts (relatively cheap cuz the places i go to want to get rid of s-10 parts cuz they have too many
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