I've been trying to figure out how to wire up switches to interrupt my injector signal grounds which appear to run from the injectors up to the driver's side near the injector resistor. I'm thinking the brown, red, light blue, and yellow need to be cut into and a switch added there. I also think the green/white wire to my alternator may be the one to interrupt which signals the alternator that the battery is charged. I'm not really up for the aero mods yet. I have to make sure it looks alright, but most importantly that it won't fly off. I don't understand how you route those little tubes to outside the car without creating some kind of air leak.
I wired my own at the injectors. The ground should all be the same color, mine were black. Those are the ones to combine and switch. If you were to combine all the hot wires, every injector would fire simultaneously. The different colors for each injector denote the hot wires for each individual injector.
3/16 I.D. tubes. I pass them thru the door jamb near the top hinge. There is a good area where the tubes imbed in the soft weatherstrip and I have added an additional w/seal to help.
Have not got around to checking the undercar pressures much. With the reduction in negative pressures at the back of the car, that has to outweigh most all other factors. With no skirts at the body sill I would not expect to see significant low pressures underneath. I will test it more in the future.
Has any of this given you any ideas for you own car?
First I would like to thank COZX2 for taking the time for posting the effects of his mods. And yes it has started me thinking about adding some areo mods. I didn't think they would have such a significant difference as you have seen, and considering the low cost, there's not a real good reason not to try them.
I think I will try for a grill block first. I'm going to be conservative on how much I block off, maybe adding a little at a time. With the heat here in the summer and having a few cars that have had overheating issues in the past, I don't want my car overheating. After that, maybe a belly pan.
my injectors all have black/red wires and then the colored wires. According to the manual, the red/black wires are the signal wires(+), and the colored wires are for ground (-). I don't know why this is the case, but I've done some work tracking the wires around and it seems to be as the manual states. I just bought a couple toggles and some 18 gauge stranded wire.
I can do a 54-mile round trip, with about 1000 feet elevation change, and get 70mpg on the 'downhill' half, and 55mpg on the uphill half!. My car doesn't have half the mods that CO2 has (and also, my engine is very inefficiently designed).
Anyway, I believe all that CO2 has done, particularly as I am now getting MPGs I would never have believed with only minimal mods!
__________________ Team GasMisers5 - #1 for first three rounds of the original GS Fuel Economy Challenge
Miles displaced by e-bike since 1 Jan 2008: 62.6 (0 kWh used)
I don't know why anyone would doubt him... I'm getting pretty much 40% above EPA and all I did was pump up my tires and stopped speeding excessively. (well, and suffer through less A/C use).
If I have done nothing to acheive nearly 40mpg in my car, I don't see why he can't reach 100. I've read through some of his posts and am amazed at how meticulous he is with his experiments. Would I ever be able to achieve what he has? Not likely, I don't have that kinda of dedication.
Congrats CO! Awesome job, and you have inspired at least me...
Ok i take back my previous statements. Congrats cause the On/Off switch is awesome and you can do that everyday. And it would be really cool if you had something to monitor how much battery life you have left so you know how long you can go until you can turn you alternator back on.
I would love to know how you hooked up the alternator to turn it off to if you could PM me that would be awesome.