Electrical loads - Page 3 - Fuelly Forums

Android Users - Coming Soon! - Migrating from aCar 4.8 to 5.0

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 04-05-2006, 01:15 AM   #21
Registered Member
 
Compaq888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,460
Country: United States
The maxima guys bought

The maxima guys bought flashers but for some of them it didn't work. I want to see how the license plate and brake lights work first since they waste the most electricity.

If the LED's are bright enough then I'll get on the 3rd brake light and all the turn signals. Beyond that I don't want to do anything because I like the way my instrument cluster looks. I don't use any other bulbs besides that.
__________________

__________________

Compaq888 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2006, 12:05 PM   #22
Registered Member
 
GasSavers_Ryland's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,325
Country: United States
Send a message via AIM to GasSavers_Ryland
Re: I have some good news and

Quote:
Originally Posted by Diemaster

why are led's no in tursignals? mine work just fine. u gota get the led flasher or get a heavy duty flasher so the flasher dosent buzz from the low current. i even hooked up a pot on my flasher so not only do i have leds, i got variable flash rate too lol i'm such a geek... lol
LED's don't work in some cars as turn signals because they use less energy, a resistor, or pot is just acting as a dump load, wasting that energy that the LED's are not useing, the two commen style of flashers tell you that a bulb is burnt out by flashing at a differnt speed when the electrical use of the bulbs changes, so by adding a resistor, or pot in there is sort of like replacing all the light switchs in your house with metal cans over the light bulbs to turn lights on and off, a set of turn signal bulbs use around 50 watts for the pair, led's use less then 1 watt for the pair, adding a resistor that draws 50 watts just so your flasher works properly doesn't make sense!
__________________

GasSavers_Ryland is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-07-2006, 12:12 PM   #23
Registered Member
 
Compaq888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,460
Country: United States
Re: I have some good news and

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ryland
Quote:
Originally Posted by Diemaster

why are led's no in tursignals? mine work just fine. u gota get the led flasher or get a heavy duty flasher so the flasher dosent buzz from the low current. i even hooked up a pot on my flasher so not only do i have leds, i got variable flash rate too lol i'm such a geek... lol
LED's don't work in some cars as turn signals because they use less energy, a resistor, or pot is just acting as a dump load, wasting that energy that the LED's are not useing, the two commen style of flashers tell you that a bulb is burnt out by flashing at a differnt speed when the electrical use of the bulbs changes, so by adding a resistor, or pot in there is sort of like replacing all the light switchs in your house with metal cans over the light bulbs to turn lights on and off, a set of turn signal bulbs use around 50 watts for the pair, led's use less then 1 watt for the pair, adding a resistor that draws 50 watts just so your flasher works properly doesn't make sense!
EXACTLY!!!!!!!!!!!

Anyway I ordered everything I need. I ordered another set of license plate lights and a 3rd brake light. And that's it.
__________________

Compaq888 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2006, 11:20 AM   #24
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,978
Country: United States
Re: I have some good news and

Quote:
Originally Posted by Compaq888

EXACTLY!!!!!!!!!!!

Anyway I ordered everything I need. I ordered another set of license plate lights and a 3rd brake light. And that's it.
C-888: BTW, did you order from the Maxima website? And if so, what's the address? I tried LEDs a while back for blinkers and it freaked out the system. I definitely need the HD/LED relay. I think I'll start with blinkers to see how well they work -- I love the look.

Also, I liked your photo test -- good info -- much appreciated.

RH77
__________________
rh77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2006, 11:21 AM   #25
*shrug*
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 6,195
Country: United States
Yep yep, jared and I right

Yep yep, jared and I right now are discussing buying an *** load of LEDs, hopefully we'll DIY it!
SVOboy is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-08-2006, 11:25 AM   #26
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,978
Country: United States
Same here...

Going to try to assess how well they work, and if we get get results, I'll be ordering a schload as well.

RH77
__________________
rh77 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-09-2006, 10:51 PM   #27
Registered Member
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 270
Country: United States
Send a message via AIM to molecule
my last roommate redid his

my last roommate redid his entire crx dash with the high candella superbright leds from japan or china on ebay
he used the 3mm bulbs...it was like $11 shipped for 100 pieces
and i must say it looked great in person...
it took some testing to figure out how to light them all at the same time without reinstalling the dash...as they were directional (diode)...and had to put in one way...
i wish my dash was brighter...



__________________
BE ZEITGEISTED
molecule is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 04-10-2006, 02:24 AM   #28
Registered Member
 
Compaq888's Avatar
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 1,460
Country: United States
Re: I have some good news and

Quote:
Originally Posted by rh77
Quote:
Originally Posted by Compaq888

EXACTLY!!!!!!!!!!!

Anyway I ordered everything I need. I ordered another set of license plate lights and a 3rd brake light. And that's it.
C-888: BTW, did you order from the Maxima website? And if so, what's the address? I tried LEDs a while back for blinkers and it freaked out the system. I definitely need the HD/LED relay. I think I'll start with blinkers to see how well they work -- I love the look.

Also, I liked your photo test -- good info -- much appreciated.

RH77

I ordered from the website that Diemaster recommended.
Which is superbrightleds.com

The maxima guys order from http://www.superlumination.com/

The problem where the maxima guys order is they are too fricking bright and their prices are more expensive.

The superbrightled's website is perfect but don't order the standard stuff. If you're going to be ordering from superbrightleds.com make sure the brake lights are at least 20 LED's in a bulb. 12 is okay but it could be better. Also for the license plate I ordered 1 led per bulb and it's too dim as you can see. Also blue which can get me pulled over. Make sure you order at least 4 LED's in a bulb for the right brightness.

I found that there is no point to do my turn signals because without resistors it just won't work. If I use resistors then what's the point of using LED's since it will waste the same power.

Sorry I didn't respond sooner, I thought this thread was dead.
__________________

Compaq888 is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2006, 01:03 PM   #29
Supporting Member
 
DracoFelis's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2006
Posts: 265
Country: United States
LEDs and power

Quote:
Originally Posted by Compaq888
The superbrightled's website is perfect but don't order the standard stuff. If you're going to be ordering from superbrightleds.com make sure the brake lights are at least 20 LED's in a bulb.
FWIW: I just joined this board, but (after my dad clued me into that store) have been using superbrightleds.com stuff for a few months now (with my Honda CRX, with my wife's Honda Civic, and even use a few of their 110v units in the house). So I have a little (consumer) experience with their stuff.

I've tried the 12 and 24 led modules, and they do work, but even the 24 LED units (much less the 12 LED units) are NOT as bright as the (much higher power usage) 1156/1157/etc bulbs they replace. And for small wedge bulbs, their 5 bulb "wide angle" units are IMHO very nice for replacing 168 or 194 bulbs (I like the 5 LED WLED units, as their design makes them excellent at throwing light in a very wide angle, thereby filling up most car lenses). But IMHO their "3 watt Luxeon" bulbs are the cream of the crop (if they happen to make a Luxeon bulb in the size/shape you need). Yes, they are $20/each, BUT they are reasonably wide angle (130 degrees), are rated for 50k hours (i.e. years of service even driving 24/7), appear to be solidly constructed, and they are the brightest bulbs they sell (my CRX's tail lights and turn signals, both converted to their Luxeon bulbs, look noticeably BRIGHTER than the stock 1156/1157 incandescent bulbs they were replacing, and yet use a small fraction of the power, and turn on/off faster)! And I also got more "pure looking" color (having amber/red LEDs behind the lenses), than I got with the stock (white incandescent) bulbs being behind those lenses. All around, I'm not only saving power in the car, but IMHO the lighting is more safe/useful as well!

BTW: I too am working on lower electrical loads in my car (and until I saw this forum thread, I thought I was one of the few). The simple idea I had, was that ALL electrical generators (that convert mechanical energy to electrical energy) need to put more drag on their mechanical power source, as you increase the electrical load (i.e. the more electricity you use, the more mechanical work is required to keep the generator running). And a car alternator is just one example of such a generator, so it HAS TO follow the same physical principals. So (despite what many people think) electricity in a car isn't "free" (it's paid for, in the form of increased engine drag), even if/when your alternator has more than enough capacity for that electrical load. And in fact, I am able to actually hear/feel the extra engine work difference between high and low electrical usage, so the theory is sound!

I haven't really done the tests needed to quantify how much of a difference it makes in FE (although the "cleaner" light color, longer lasting "bulbs", and faster on/off activation, are all worth while IMHO, even if there wasn't also a FE boost). But FWIW I'm pretty sure it is one of the contributing factors in me recently getting 47mpg out of my 1991 Honda CRX (EPA 33 combined). How much of a factor it was in the mix I can't say (for example, I personally think synthetic oil made a bigger difference), but it is one of the things I was doing to help FE.

BTW: While all incandescent bulbs are inefficient (from the standpoint of lumens per watt), they get worse the smaller your light output per bulb (whereas LEDs are actually the opposite, being slightly more efficient at lower light/usage conditions). So while taillights are obvious for swap out, don't overlook the small bulbs in your car: running lights, license plate lights, high break lights, or even dash indicators (if it's easy to get into your dash to replace the lights). Remember, even very dim incandescent bulbs (for example, dash indicator lights) are usually somewhere between 2 and 5 watts each (whereas the LED equivalent is a small fraction of a watt). This might not sound like much, until you add up how many small lights many cars have on them, and realize just how many watts you can save by swapping in LEDs for many "misc" (small) bulbs.

NOTE: I agree with the recommendation (on the SuperBrightLed's web site), to (when possible) use the same color LED as the lens you are behind (even if/when the bulb you were replacing was white). The reason for this, is that you get a lot more effective light output this way. The reason is, a color filter (which is what a car lens is), works by throwing away light that doesn't match the color you need (and only letting the light color you want through). In the case of red (and to a lessor degree with amber), this is often 70% or more of the light being thrown away (to turn a white light source into a colored light)! But, when you put a true colored light source behind a lens of the same color (i.e. red LEDs behind a red lens, amber behind amber, etc), virtually all the light goes through the lens (saving the normal "wasted" light). The main benefit of this, is that you can get roughly 3x the effective brightness "for free" (using no more LEDs, nor any more electrical power), by simply avoiding the "wasted light" (by matching the LED color to the lens color)!

BTW: You do need to watch their warnings about "turn signals" and flashers. I did indeed have to swap out my stock flasher (with an electronic flasher unit), before replacing my turn signals with LEDs (on my CRX). However, I was easily able to swap the break/tail/running lights with LEDs before the flasher swap. And I also found swapping the cabin and trunk lights with LEDs resulted in more cabin/trunk light (while being much lower power drain, should I ever have a need to leave those lights on for a long time). And just for good measure, I made my cabin light RED (instead of the normal white), so that a passenger can read maps/etc at night without killing my "night vision" (red light doesn't kill your night vision the way white light does).

And finally, after poking around on the net, (while it is easy to swap many bulbs with LED units) I don't really see any way to significantly decrease headlight wattage (but you could of course leave the headlights off, except when they are needed for legality and/or safety). You can get slightly more efficient halogen bulbs, but that bonus will be maybe 20% more efficient (and even then, they probably don't make them lower wattage, but rather the same watts with slightly more light output). You can also convert to HID ("High Intensity Discharge", i.e. fancy arc-lamps), but (after market) HID conversions cost several hundred dollars, and appear to be illegal for street use in the USA (sort of defeating the purpose IMHO). And I also decided that swapping out the "backup lights" was a bad idea (even though, unlike the headlight situation, you can get white 1156 LED "bulbs"), as you don't get any lens bonus with white light (meaning that even through white Luxeon 1156 "bulbs" use much less power than the 1156 incandescent bulbs, the incandescent still give you a little more "useful light" in this situation). And I personally want (for safety purposes) as much backup light as I can get (especially at night). And really, my percentage time backing up vs driving is pretty low (and it's only during backup when swapping the backup lights with LEDs would save any power)...

Edit Reason: Minor fix to my car's EPA estimate.
DracoFelis is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 08-12-2006, 09:13 PM   #30
Registered Member
 
GasSavers_Randy's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 98
Country: United States
I did an electrical load test once, and posted it at http://www.gassavers.org/showpost.ph...20&postcount=7

This was alternator current times voltage, so it should be related to engine load. Voltage made a big difference in load. You can tell when it's at the lower voltage, but it's not too annoying.

For me the biggest load change other than voltage would be running lights. I often use lights even when I don't need them so my car is more obvious. I think a switchable daytime running light system would help.
__________________

GasSavers_Randy is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Suggestion: Numbered tanks MMUK Fuelly Web Support and Community News 5 10-19-2011 08:07 PM
Mid-engine del sol SVOboy General Discussion (Off-Topic) 1 03-28-2006 03:20 PM
Probably a Silly idea, but.... krousdb General Fuel Topics 8 03-26-2006 09:10 PM
Sticker Shock -- Inefficient New Furnace rh77 General Discussion (Off-Topic) 8 01-25-2006 07:15 AM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 10:38 PM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2017, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.