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Old 08-01-2008, 07:51 AM   #11
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One of the problems with 'proper tuning' is that you are running with a razor-thin margin of error. ANYTHING that might happen to disrupt this could throw your tuning off enough to cause problems. Also, reliabilty may be better with a lightly turbocharged engine that is properly tuned. BUT, don't expect it to be stock-reliable. The way I see it, a boosted D should NEVER be your sole vehicle.
Of course nothing beats stock reliability. With a Honda there is very little one can do to improve reliability when performance isn't the agenda.

Try to name a few parts you can replace to improve reliability.

Even with performance as the agenda it amazes me how many performance engine builders still put their faith in the reliability of OEM Parts over "aftermarket performance" parts. OEM distributors, headgaskets, bearings, cranks, and transmissions are all parts that few feel you'll need to ever upgrade with sub 400hp performance goals.
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Old 08-01-2008, 07:59 AM   #12
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Try to name a few parts you can replace to improve reliability.
oil filter, timing belt, sensors, spark plugs, clutch, bushings, shocks, exhaust. but all this would be with a fresh oem replacement

the few non-oem replacements that will improve reliability would be a pcv catchcan, aftermarket head studs, brake pads, and tires
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Old 08-01-2008, 08:22 AM   #13
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With a Honda there is very little one can do to improve reliability when performance isn't the agenda.

Try to name a few parts you can replace to improve reliability.
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oil filter, timing belt, sensors, spark plugs, clutch, bushings, shocks, exhaust. but all this would be with a fresh oem replacement
Why not a Fresh OEM d15z1 while your at it

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the few non-oem replacements that will improve reliability would be a pcv catchcan, aftermarket head studs, brake pads, and tires
The whole PCV issue is because of stricter emissions purposes. This is why 94-97 b18b Integras have the black breather box and 98-2001 b18b Integras don't.

The OEM headbolts are fine on all non performance applications. If the head is off you might as well upgrade to aftermarket headstuds since they cost roughly the same. This is my old car and the current owner is coming up close to 30k boosted miles on the stock headbolts! CLICK HERE

As for brakes do you know that RealTime-Racing's Acura Integra uses OEM NSX calipers on their fronts and OEM Integra calipers on the rears. Once again OEM is more than fine for non-performance applications.

OEM FTW!!!!
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Old 08-01-2008, 11:46 AM   #14
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because the z1 isnt necissarily more reliable?? the y5 is better anyway. i dont know what your getting at.

i mention the pcv catch can because a decrease in the octane of the air/fuel mixture from an intake manifold that has been tarred up will eventually take the potency away from the motor and over time(many many miles), will hurt reliability.

i mention head studs because eventually head gaskets blow and there is a better alternative for even the non performance application. dont get me wrong, oem headstuds are "fine", but the aftermarket is better. 30k miles is nothing on a honda, boosted or factory.

i didnt say calipers, i said pads. fundamentally different as far as reliability goes.

dude i read your post and even when performance is not on the agenda, at all what i listed does increase reliability on non performance applications.
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Old 08-01-2008, 12:32 PM   #15
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Why not a Fresh OEM d15z1 while your at it
Well, now that you mention it.... I'm wavering back and forth between doing the small things I can so see how far I can go with my existing stock DX engine, or just finding a cheap VX engine to drop in (along with the HF final drive I have). The only thing keeping me on the fence is deciding how much time and work I want to put into the car. I really don't need another big project to deal with in my life.

Obviously it's going to be one path or the other. I just need to figure out which fork to take at this point.
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Old 08-02-2008, 02:23 AM   #16
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Of course nothing beats stock reliability. With a Honda there is very little one can do to improve reliability when performance isn't the agenda.

Try to name a few parts you can replace to improve reliability.

Even with performance as the agenda it amazes me how many performance engine builders still put their faith in the reliability of OEM Parts over "aftermarket performance" parts. OEM distributors, headgaskets, bearings, cranks, and transmissions are all parts that few feel you'll need to ever upgrade with sub 400hp performance goals.
If you want better reliability from a boosted D, then ugraded pistons and rods are a good start. Resleeving the block would help as well if you REALLY plan to take this motor to the top performance-wise, while maintaining reliability. As for folks who believe in OEM parts, these folks are typically racers - people who live their lives a quarter mile at a time, and who don't care whether the car is going to run trouble-free for another 50000 miles.
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Old 08-02-2008, 02:48 AM   #17
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If you want better reliability from a boosted D, then ugraded pistons and rods are a good start. Resleeving the block would help as well if you REALLY plan to take this motor to the top performance-wise, while maintaining reliability. As for folks who believe in OEM parts, these folks are typically racers - people who live their lives a quarter mile at a time, and who don't care whether the car is going to run trouble-free for another 50000 miles.
Way to pigeon hole me Matt.
By the way I'm on my way to Home Depot you want me to pick you up a few more broad brushes?
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Old 08-04-2008, 11:47 AM   #18
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If you want better reliability from a boosted D, then ugraded pistons and rods are a good start. Resleeving the block would help as well if you REALLY plan to take this motor to the top performance-wise, while maintaining reliability. As for folks who believe in OEM parts, these folks are typically racers - people who live their lives a quarter mile at a time, and who don't care whether the car is going to run trouble-free for another 50000 miles.

Like I said, If I decide to try the turbo route, it won't be for performance reasons. I've committed to driving this particular car like my grandma would. In theory anyway, at cruise, turbochargers produce just enough boost to overcome the vacuum produced by the engine (thus increasing the operating efficiency), which is supposed to boost gas mileage by a few percent..... That's all moot for now anyway since I've got other fish to fry first.... For now, I'd be interested in finding out what is involved with converting from OBD0 to OBD1. Is it just a matter of swapping a few wires in the connector, or does it involve pulling a whole new engine harness?
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Old 08-04-2008, 02:48 PM   #19
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Like I said, If I decide to try the turbo route, it won't be for performance reasons. I've committed to driving this particular car like my grandma would. In theory anyway, at cruise, turbochargers produce just enough boost to overcome the vacuum produced by the engine (thus increasing the operating efficiency), which is supposed to boost gas mileage by a few percent..... That's all moot for now anyway since I've got other fish to fry first.... For now, I'd be interested in finding out what is involved with converting from OBD0 to OBD1. Is it just a matter of swapping a few wires in the connector, or does it involve pulling a whole new engine harness?
For OBD0-OBD1 you can just buy a conversion harness and its plug and play or you could try and repin but that will be more time consuming and complicated, the OBD0 and OBD1 ECUs use different plugs...you also would need to convert the 02 sensor from 1 to 4 or 5 wire (depending if you go VX) and I believe you would need an OBD1 distributor which you could repin with the OBD0 plug or buy the conversion plug...look on Honda-tech there is some decent info in the FAQ section about the conversion
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Old 08-04-2008, 09:54 PM   #20
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Cool, thanks for the tips....

I've got another related question now. Since I'm finally homing in on my transmission combo, I want to be sure that any additional changes to my engine won't affect what rpm it works the best at. Currently, I seem to be the most efficient in the 3100 - 3500 rpm range (that's where I got 46mpg while gaining 2000 ft altitude over a 275 mile stretch of I-40, vs, only getting 43 mpg while losing 6000 ft over 150 miles at 2800-3000 rpm).... Would the MPFI conversion change where the engine operates best by very much? I'm going to swap in a DX trans w/ HF final drive so I can cruise at 31-3200 in 4th and reserve 5th for the flat/downhill stretches. It'll put me at 2600 at 75 mph.... If the "butter zone" goes up by even a few hundred rpm, I could end up shooting myself in the foot with the trans combo!

While we're at it, what rpm do the VX engines work the best at?
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