I'll probably do a writeup with all the part numbers and instructions. I think I found some really good fittings for both systems. I have a couple of ideas for the electrolysis hydrogen generator but that will be later on. I just want to get it into my car.
That's the way to do it, just see if it works right before you go crazy trying to perfect it.
Has anyone looked at the HyZor unit at www.eagle-research.com/? I have one of this guys O2 sensor voltage adders and it does work as advertised. That alone was worth 1-2mpg to move from stoich to just lean of stoich on my wifes '89 240SX. Supposedly it is necessary to get the most out of other mileage improving devices.
In the newsletter he claims to have found an efficient way to produce H by using heat, and multiple plates (no suprise there) using electrolysis. Most beneficial though is the ability to regulate how much H is made. In his directions for building one of these units, he stresses finding the optimum point at which the drag on the engine to make the electricity for elecrolysis becomes less than the benefit to fuel mileage, creating a net gain in mileage. In effect using the hydrogen as a combusion catalyst where too much brings decreasing improvements because of the increased energy to produce the H. Each application is apparently different so the user is on thier own to experiment for the maximum benefit. It seems that there should be a chemically optimum point, but I only have 2 quarters of college chemistry.
His most recent newsletter states that he is selling assembled units for like $389. Kinda steep. By my calculations if your mileage went from say 30mpg to 40mpg and this thing required no other expenses, it would have to last 18,701 miles to pay for itsself at $2.50/gallon. It's like solar electricity in Seattle - its a lifestyle choice, costs be damned.
The benefit of using an electric unit is that it's controllable and doesn't have the caustic hassles of a lye unit.
Just curious to know what others have found on this guys stuff.
There is no way in hell I'm paying $389. So far I payed $53 and I have about $20 worth of stuff to buy more.
BTW, all the units require mainenance. So that is always more money. If I get 35mpg my system will pay off in 5 fill ups.
When you make a system yourself you actually know what you are doing and how it is made and the quality of the part that goes inside. Some of these companies sell crappy electrodes and are only good for a couple miles.
I'm still not sure lye is the reactant you need for doing it the chemical method. It's used in electrolysis because K+ and OH- are very strong ions. Ions carry the charge through the electrolyte from the electrodes.
PVC is just fine for compressed gas. They say you're not supposed to use it because when a pipe pressurized with gas fails, that gas is going to have a lot of kinetic energy with it, meaning it'll send shardes of plastic everywhere. A liquid on the other hand won't expand when it bursts a pipe like gas does and is "safer" do a degree. ABS is much worse than PVC when it fails because it's cellular core and will break into smaller pieces upon failure. Just don't exceed the rated pressure (even a 50% safety margin would be a good idea) and you'll be ok. I use my 10' potato cannon made of PVC all the time and it works fine. Anyway, just thought I'd mention that if you care to use the stuff.
PVC does not like being heated and the pressure rating will severely drop. At boiling temperatures, PVC can be squeezed and molded by hand. Since the rate of H2 production increases so dramatically with heat, you need something capable of operating at those temperatures, which means you're stuck with metal. The downside to that is that metal is more expensive and it's also harder to work with. It requires more tools to get the job done right. There's no other way about it though unless you use a high performance plastic, but that's way more expensive. You will have to isolate your electrodes from shorting against the metal container though, so that's one thing you'd need to consider.
Scouring the country for an excellent condition Civic VX
If I get 35mpg I'll be happy. The chemical method is only good for long distances. So I'll use it when driving to work or on long trips.
Quick question about the chemical method. Let's say you reach your destination and there is still a chemical reaction left (ie, there is still aluminum, etc). What happens then? The gases are very hot so you can't just open your hood and disconnect the hose, and with a closed throttle the gases will be backing up into your intake tube back towards your air filter.
You might actually end up filling your entire engine compartment with hydrogen, which isn't a good thing considering the engine temps.
What is the solution around this? The chemical reaction may just keep going after the car is stopped.
That is what i'm scared off. That is why I only want to use it on long distance trips so the reaction will stop before I get to my destination. I will experiment with cans and water how long the reaction will run out.
Also the air dam trick will have to come out since I can't play with temp like that.
I was thinking of starting with the chemical reaction then if it works then I'll get a dry pump and a hydrogen safe container and all the hydrogen that I won't use will go in it. I still have to work all the bugs out in my mind, then on paper, then in the car.
As far as looking at mileage so far that I noticed that It doesn't matter how I accelarate on the streets it's driving on the freeway at 55mph that gives me a huge boost in mileage. I switched to 65mph on cruise control on the freeway and i'll predict i'll get 26mpg.
The project is nowhere near done, the ABS pipes are laying in my room and I still have to research the safety equipment. Oh and I still need to buy the 4" ABS.
I'm still very commited to this because I spent a good chunk of change on this and don't plan to have it go to waste.