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Old 11-28-2007, 10:39 AM   #11
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Except for a very few instances, I've had very good service out of standard parts & fluids from the parts store. I try not to buy the cheapest, but can't justify buying the most expensive.




oil change - The biggest issue is to simply change your oil & filter regularly. There are those that go as long as they can possibly go to "save the planet." I go 5k miles to "save my engine." I don't know what your particular vehicle calls for, but a regular conventional oil is sufficient in the proper weight for 3k to 5k mile change intervals. Don't buy Fram oil filters if you can, and change your filter each oil change.

I feel good using high mileage oil in two of our cars, Motorcraft in the V10 truck, Pennzoil Platinum in the 98 Z28, and I currently have PP in the CRX oil pan and gearbox. Super-Duper oil is more of an OCD in my opinion, and with 5 cars to do it's out of the question.

As for sythetic oil fuel savings, I once managed to put 10k miles each on Mobil1 5w-30 and Quaker State 5w-30 in the same vehicle. The MPG difference was less than 1/10th mpg between the two, plus this was back when there was no quibbling over whether M1 was a true synthetic. I don't believe synthetic oils provide enough of a difference in mpgs as to make their increased cost worth it. You'd get more return by keeping your air filter clean and using a thinner oil in the weight of your choice.

tranny fluid-For my 5-sp CRX it's 10w-30 Pennzoil Platinum. It's the older oil that really is a synthetic oil. I have a few quarts still laying around. Others will give other examples, but I haven't had experience with them so can't say one way or the other.

plugs/wires-I have NGK plugs and some wires I got at the parts store.

cap/rotor-Parts store replacements.

coolant-Mine's good as I got it (it was from Rapid City and was recently done), but I'll use some name brand from Wally-Mart in a 50/50 mix when I flush it next year.


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Old 11-28-2007, 10:44 AM   #12
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Looks like you have a D16Y8, soo...
(as if this needs to be said) keep it out of VTEC (5300rpm cut-in)

Also, if you could get it cheaply, a 4-2-1 aftermarket header could help you out a bit. It'll have a lot less mass than your stock header, therefore it will heat up your engine bay a lot faster, if you want to do a WAI this could help. The other benifit is that just putting on a 4-2-1 header should give you a FE bump.

You can generally find cheapo headers on ebay, but check your local boneyard for riced-out hondas first. Also craigslist or freecycle would be good places to check.
Oh but that 5300-7000 burst feels sooooooo good... ok, I know. Not FE.
I've read that headers on D16y8 perform MUCH better with inlet mods (the "whale penis" from another thread. Does this improve FE or just enhance the joy of VTEC?
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Old 11-28-2007, 10:53 AM   #13
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To sum up:

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Originally Posted by Mr Incredible View Post
1. I try not to buy the cheapest, but can't justify buying the most expensive.
2.The biggest issue is to simply change your oil & filter regularly.
3. regular conventional oil is sufficient in the proper weight for 3k to 5k mile change intervals. Don't buy Fram oil filters if you can, and change your filter each oil change.
4. I don't believe synthetic oils provide enough of a difference in mpgs as to make their increased cost worth it.
5. tranny fluid[COLOR=#ff0000]-For my 5-sp CRX it's 10w-30 Pennzoil Platinum.
plugs/wires-I have NGK plugs and some wires I got at the parts store.

6. cap/rotor-Parts store replacements.

7. coolant Mine's good as I got it (it was from Rapid City and was recently done), but I'll use some name brand from Wally-Mart in a 50/50 mix when I flush it next year.
Now that's some usefull stuff. Any opinions on engine heaters?
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Old 11-28-2007, 10:54 AM   #14
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both, depending on how you drive it.

Drive in a "spirited" fashion and spend much time in the VTEC-happy-zone and it'll give a nice little performance boost.

Drive for FE and it'll give you a nice FE boost.
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Old 11-28-2007, 10:58 AM   #15
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I see that you're in a COLD region. An addendum to the oil question is that you might wish to use a synthetic oil for the lower cold pumpability this winter. Getting oil moving quicker is better.

On the other hand, the thinnest 5w-30s I know if are Castrol Syntec (thinnest and a "synthetic") and Havoline Deposit Shield (only slightly less thin than C-Syn but thinner than any other synthetic of the 5w-30s. Of course, Havoline DS is the cheaper of the two.


Personally, I don't use engine heaters. My F250SD has a battery warmer, but it may only get down to -10* here, and then only for a couple of days. Not too bad.
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Old 11-28-2007, 12:59 PM   #16
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Funny, we get our electricity from Quebec, but it's cheaper here... thank God for small favors.

I thought I'd get a recirculating heater (aftermarket but there is none listed for hondas... do hondas have an odd sized lower radiator hose?)
I've notice that the block heaters all have 3 prong plugs, and the timers 2 prong... is it safe to use a ground lift adapter?

I think your right about the 55mph, any slower than that and the engine seems to labor, it just seems to like higher revs than I'm used to, especially with hills thrown in.
Hum, I don't know about that, how much cents you pay a KW?
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Old 11-29-2007, 03:39 AM   #17
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Hum, I don't know about that, how much cents you pay a KW?
$0.00408/kwh, USD of course which is pretty weak against the Canadian dollar from what I hear lately.

Better question, how much are you paying for gas. The border is only 2mi from work, plus Quebec'rs are more polite.
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Old 11-29-2007, 07:39 AM   #18
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$0.00408/kwh, USD of course which is pretty weak against the Canadian dollar from what I hear lately.

Better question, how much are you paying for gas. The border is only 2mi from work, plus Quebec'rs are more polite.
We pay 1.16 a liter, but I'm in Quebec city, in Montreal, its less expansive, so 1.16 liter is 4.38$ a gallon, but we have to pay an EXTRA taxe of 25 cents per liter, so 95 cents add on each gallon, so without the taxe, we are at 3.50 around, so that is not that high.

So I think you better to gas from your side of the boders.
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