I don't have a scan gauge tool, for largely the problem of cost. However I do have a vacume gauge and I can say it is pretty amazing how little difference their can be in the "feel" at the pedal and the vacume on the gauge. I'd like to get something going for measuring more directly, but for the time being, the vacume gauge is a inexpensive alternate. You can get them pretty inexpensively, through Harbor Freight and if you watch their sale's, periodically they sell them for a really inexpensive price. Good alternative, IMO.
You know I'm not even going to deal with this color BS. I tried to make a fun thread of what color it is and it got deleted. Now If I post pics of mods it will be off the car so nobody will know the color of the car.
I vote for instrumentation. I used to think that getting the car in top gear and mashing the go-pedal was the best way, but tests have shown, "not the case". Frankly, the ScanGauge changed my FE life.
Instead of feathering the gas pedal in town from a standing start, I pick a TPS number between 20-30% and hold it there until I get up to speed, then back off the gas or coast. This seems to be the best compromise of not ticking people off in traffic, and FE on acceleration. On super-hot days, the AI temp lets me know how much road I need to merge since the power is way down. In fact, I hide the ScanGauge on rental cars I test, so I don't skew the results by watching the figures. If you're looking to improve your economy, Matt has a great point -- change the driver, not the car. You have to know what your engine is doing to change your habits.
Anyways, if you're looking for the "custom tooner" look, the ScanGauge 2 is a flush-mount design.
I'm not being mean C-888, but I can honestly tell that you don't/can't drive efficiently -- nothing has changed. One summer I practically lived in SoCal and the best gas mileage I got was when the car was parked and racked up parking tickets. Also, it's too tempting to race. City driving and a high-density highway situation isn't going to yield stellar results.
They say in racing that the driver who keeps his wheels the straightest wins. Similarly, the driver who uses his engine less wins. If you really want the help, we need an official introduction of the car -- otherwise it's going to be the same ol' "you say, they say".
You'll be alright after a few hundred miles. This is OT but...
The first time I tried to learn stick was with my mother 'teaching' me. She thought it would be a good idea for me to get in, back down a hill in our driveway, and try to start up that hill. Long story short I smoked the clutch and said "F-this." After that they just turned me lose to drive back and forth to school and that's how I got the hang of it. Practice, practice, practice. First strive to keep the car moving in the right direction, then strive to do that and be smooth as well. Then get a ScanGauge and strive to keep the car going in one directon smoothly without burning more fuel than is absolutely necessary .
Oh, and one tip for learning to start smoothly: in an empty, flat parking lot, practice getting the car to move in 1st gear without touching the throttle. You will stall the first few times, then you'll start to get a really good feel for where the clutch engagement point is and what your left foot should be doing. Then you can start adding a little throttle for quicker but still smooth take-offs.