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Old 05-31-2006, 05:20 PM   #31
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Are you using a wideband O2 or just checking your cars narrowband?
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Old 05-31-2006, 06:40 PM   #32
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Why no o2?
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Old 05-31-2006, 07:05 PM   #33
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Quote:
Originally Posted by cheapybob
I also have a constant Air/Fuel LED readout and its not running lean.
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Originally Posted by maxc
No O2 being used. Custom fuel system. Exhaust temps only 325 to 350F after 3 min of run time at 1200 to 1600rpms.
this was directed to cheapybob, dunno why u responded?

I am trying to figure out how fooling the ecu that the intake temp is hot helps, does it lean out the mixture?
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Old 06-01-2006, 04:12 PM   #34
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefxu
this was directed to cheapybob, dunno why u responded?

I am trying to figure out how fooling the ecu that the intake temp is hot helps, does it lean out the mixture?
I have an A/F meter. It doesn't run too lean. I heat the air up to about 200. Anything over that is bad. Same with water temp up to about 205, over that is bad. Once its warmed up, I cheat the computer with a resistor network on a switch and tell it the air is 247, but its really only 200. I need to rig a cold air intake to sense when the air is over 200 and mix in some cold air and keep the temp at or under 200. It might be nice if it activated under heavy throttle conditions, too. Ignition retards if the actual air gets over 200, killing mpg gains.

Found out my scangage was off. So when I thought I got 59 mpg it was really on 56.
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Old 06-01-2006, 04:23 PM   #35
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Quote:
I am trying to figure out how fooling the ecu that the intake temp is hot helps, does it lean out the mixture?
On a Saturn anyhow, the ECU leans out the mixture as the air temp increases.
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Old 06-01-2006, 06:53 PM   #36
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I don't know how accurate your narrowband read out is. Most the forced induction community calls them a light show. http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1001592

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Originally Posted by diamondlarry
On a Saturn anyhow, the ECU leans out the mixture as the air temp increases.
How bout on a Honda?

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Originally Posted by cheapybob
Same with water temp up to about 205
How do you keep the fan from kicking on? Mine kicks on at 195 I though about getting high thermostat but I am at 185 now and I could go to 190 if I go to 195 it might make my fan kick on all the time.
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Old 06-01-2006, 06:56 PM   #37
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Narrowbands suck.

Anyway, it doesn't lean it out, just corrects the fuel multiplier. Hondas do also, search for my post called "a tidbit on iats" or something like that.
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Old 06-02-2006, 01:07 AM   #38
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Quote:
How do you keep the fan from kicking on? Mine kicks on at 195 I though about getting high thermostat but I am at 185 now and I could go to 190 if I go to 195 it might make my fan kick on all the time.
I heard of someone switching to Evans coolant that encountered this problem, they solved it by putting a resistor in-line with the fan control. Here is a link to Evans. http://www.evanscooling.com/main1.htm It is a waterless coolant and it doesn't need to be pressurized so you can run the engine much hotter for better efficiency.
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Old 06-02-2006, 05:30 AM   #39
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mikefxu
I don't know how accurate your narrowband read out is. Most the forced induction community calls them a light show. http://www.honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1001592

How bout on a Honda?


How do you keep the fan from kicking on? Mine kicks on at 195 I though about getting high thermostat but I am at 185 now and I could go to 190 if I go to 195 it might make my fan kick on all the time.
I don't have $300 for a wideband sensor. I'm getting good MPG's, my plugs look ok, and my narrowband sensor says I'm not running lean, so i'll just leave it be.

As for the fan, I have a Saturn SC1, and the fan doesn't come on until about 219 or 220. Thats a stock setting.
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Old 06-21-2008, 03:38 AM   #40
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Originally Posted by cheapybob View Post
Gettin up there! Maybe I'll make it to 60 mpg when I finish aero mods and get my preheated fuel gizmo I built working. I wish I had lighter rims and tires, and a 98+ trans, but just too much money to change those things. Once the mods are stable, I'll make one try with gas additives just to see if they help or not.

This is a 97 SC1 5 spd 1.9L with AC and PS on normal 87 octane Mobil gas, no additives, driving at about 60 mph on the same 22 mi test loop I've been using with small hills and turnaround cloverleaf, etc, avg speed 57 mph, max speed 62 mph, outside temp about 60f, no wind, slight drizzle, no drafting trucks, no coasting, had to hit brakes 1 extra time due to traffic. All readings from my Scangage with error max about 1%. I also have a constant Air/Fuel LED readout and its not running lean. I had about 35 lbs of groceries in the car, but have the spare removed to reduce weight

Aero mods
- no antenna (I have a CD changer, who cares)
- no wipers (using RainX like my race car)
- Taped front end for lower drag with holes sized for optimal cooling (like my race car)

Engine/Trans
-hotter thermostat Napa 268
-105 ohm resistor on a switch instead of IAT sensor for 242-247f signal
-all synthetic fluids + Valvoline Synthetic Oil Treatment
-insulated hot air intake (actual temp about 150f) look in my pics at Saturnfans.com
-Champion copper plugs gapped .040
-Bosch plug wires

Other
-45 psi tire pressures
Hi Bob, What is a hot air intake and is the resistor you cite 105 ohms or 150? I have a '96 sc2 w/ dohc and i'm trying to improve the mileage. Thanks.
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