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Android Users - Coming Soon! - Migrating from aCar 4.8 to 5.0

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Old 05-20-2006, 06:54 AM   #81
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Originally Posted by thisisntjared
dude on reallly really super low speed technical auto-x courses, you would never have to get out of 1st gear!! im telling you race h stock!! hahaha
Yeah yeah yeah, you talk too much.

I doubt after I've done all the mods the car will be able to break 100, not that I'll try.
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Old 05-20-2006, 07:02 AM   #82
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Originally Posted by SVOboy
Yeah yeah yeah, you talk too much.

I doubt after I've done all the mods the car will be able to break 100, not that I'll try.
My car actually got faster after I started doing this mpg stuff. Before the fastest I could do was 120mph. When I replaced some maintenace stuff I was able to do 130mph. I haven't tested it since I put the aero stuff, replaced the temp sensor, LED's, after auto rx, seafoam, new spark plug wires, new cap and rotor, another rack and pinion, no more warped rotors, weight reduction, and etc.

On the freeway it accelarates really fast in 4th. I'm sure if I went right now with OD off till 125 and then switched it on it would shift to 4th and keep on going to 130+. It would probably max out at 135mph. This aero stuff really pushed up my numbers by a couple mpg on the freeway, I'm sure at 130 it will help a lot.
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Old 05-20-2006, 07:06 AM   #83
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Originally Posted by Compaq888
My car actually got faster after I started doing this mpg stuff. Before the fastest I could do was 120mph. When I replaced some maintenace stuff I was able to do 130mph. I haven't tested it since I put the aero stuff, replaced the temp sensor, LED's, after auto rx, seafoam, new spark plug wires, new cap and rotor, another rack and pinion, no more warped rotors, weight reduction, and etc.

On the freeway it accelarates really fast in 4th. I'm sure if I went right now with OD off till 125 and then switched it on it would shift to 4th and keep on going to 130+. It would probably max out at 135mph. This aero stuff really pushed up my numbers by a couple mpg on the freeway, I'm sure at 130 it will help a lot.
My car will be weaker than the 88 CRX HF, with it's 62 HP, and have the same gearing and be heavier. The 88 CRX HF, it has been reported to me, makes top speed in 3rd gear and makes top speed at 105 mph (according to honda), so I doubt with my efforts to make the car less powerful and more efficient it will be getting any faster, and I could care less, which is why I've never driven that fast and did not bring up the issue, so I'd rather not have this become a how fast can my CRX go thread.
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Old 05-20-2006, 07:12 AM   #84
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Originally Posted by SVOboy
My car will be weaker than the 88 CRX HF, with it's 62 HP, and have the same gearing and be heavier. The 88 CRX HF, it has been reported to me, makes top speed in 3rd gear and makes top speed at 105 mph (according to honda), so I doubt with my efforts to make the car less powerful and more efficient it will be getting any faster, and I could care less, which is why I've never driven that fast and did not bring up the issue, so I'd rather not have this become a how fast can my CRX go thread.
105 is still not bad. I should one day take my car to a dyno and see what it can do. Since there is no air resistence it might top out at 145-150mph. Of course I still won't know because the numbers stop at 120mph. It wasn't hard to guess 130 because the needle was very far from 120, it could of been 135 for all I know. I just gave it 130mph because I heard of other altimas making 130+
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Old 05-20-2006, 07:16 AM   #85
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nah dude im serious. shifting back to 1st is almost an impossibility for some people, but if you dont get out of it on some courses then you dont have to worry about going back into it.
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Old 05-20-2006, 07:34 AM   #86
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I know you're serious, I'm just making fun of you.
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Old 05-20-2006, 07:51 AM   #87
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Mini How-To: Timing Belt and Water Pump

Tools:
3/8" Rachet
1/2" Breaker Bar
Torque Wrench
Manual for Torque Specifications and General Goodness
10mm, 12mm, 14mm 3/8" Sockets
17mm 1/2" Socket

Parts:
New/Remanufactured Water Pump: $28
New Timing Belt: $28
RTV: $2

Process:

1. Take everything off so that it looks like this. I didn't show this but it's the reverse of installation and pretty self explanatory. I stuffed my water pump hole to the block with a paper towel so junk wouldn't get in there, by the way.

2. Look at all your parts and make sure they're all there. They are for me.

3. Here's your new water pump; shove some rtv into the slot where the gasket sits, and then push the gasket in. Don't over rtv, just enough to help seal the gasket. Mine is a little sloppy cuz I just used my finger.


4. Position the water pump on the block, fit it on, and finger tighten all the screws. I had to whack at it with a hammer a little bit to get it to fit, but that's life. Then torque everything down like you should, mine only torqued to 9 ft/lbs, so that was pretty easy to do.

5. Position your cam so that the up on the cam gear is up and the lines are aligned with the head.

6. Now position the crank so that the cutout for the key (little metal rectangle, don't lose it, I almost did) is up and the mark on the gear matches the oil pump arrow on the block. If I need to label this picture, lemme know.

7. With the tensioner not tensed, slip the timing belt on trying to keep out slack everywhere but around the tensioner. Then tighten up the tensioner to torque, which was 33ft/lbs for mine. Now slip the crankshaft pulley back on and use it to spin the engine (counterclickwise you want to spin it) through two rotations of the crank. After this check to make sure the timing marks you set up before putting the belt on are correct. If not you need to take the belt off and redo it until they are so that the timing will be correct.

8. I got it on the first try, so yay! Start putting things back on and try to keep them clean as you do:

9. Bottom cover on (I didn't put the crank pulley on yet because I don't have a torque wrench powerful enough to give it the 137ft/lbs it deserves:

10. Top cover on with valve cover over top of that:

11. Me trying to get flywheel bolts of my blown block in the basement, I'll just pull the crank and bring it in to work.
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Old 05-20-2006, 08:00 AM   #88
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I am interning at Ceriale's Automotive in Mt. Holly, NJ.
good stuff. nice to have access to the knowledge & machinery there.
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Old 05-20-2006, 08:02 AM   #89
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good stuff. nice to have access to the knowledge & machinery there.
Ya rly, and the guy's are very nice. One of them will let me borrow his flywheel holder so I can get the crank pulley and flywheel on properly and easily,
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Old 05-20-2006, 12:37 PM   #90
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Just bought my valve cover gasket set with grommets and spark plug seals, Gonna install that later in the day. The grommets are a little different but if they work they work and I'm happy.
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