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Old 10-17-2007, 08:03 AM   #1
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Set up for cooler season

Colder outside temperatures - so check your tires!

Remember - air pressure goes down approx 1 psi per each 10 deg F. drop in outside temperature. My tires were down about 2 psi from where I last set them. So yesterday I bumped them up a bit.

Another quick mod - I blocked off the heater ducts to the other passenger positions. If wifey should ride with me I'll pull the foam out of the duct there. If you do this, check for rear seating area ducts too. I used foam pipe insulation since that's what I had handy. Works very well.

I plan on using the heat as little as possible, but when I do use it, the duct blocks should reduce some of the heat drain on the system.
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Currently getting +/- 50 mpg in fall weather. EPA is 31/39 so not too shabby. WAI, fuel cutoff switch, full belly pan, smooth wheel covers.

Now driving '97 Civic HX; tires ~ 50 psi. '89 Volvo 240 = semi-retired.
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Old 10-17-2007, 08:13 AM   #2
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Quote:
Originally Posted by brucepick View Post
Colder outside temperatures - so check your tires!

Remember - air pressure goes down approx 1 psi per each 10 deg F. drop in outside temperature. My tires were down about 2 psi from where I last set them. So yesterday I bumped them up a bit.

Another quick mod - I blocked off the heater ducts to the other passenger positions. If wifey should ride with me I'll pull the foam out of the duct there. If you do this, check for rear seating area ducts too. I used foam pipe insulation since that's what I had handy. Works very well.

I plan on using the heat as little as possible, but when I do use it, the duct blocks should reduce some of the heat drain on the system.
Hum they idea is good about blocking the heater of the passenger, but have you thought about the heat that clean the glace of ice and when its filmy, misty, steamy (I dont know the exact word in english but I'm sure you guys understant if you could translate it plz...). I know that I like to have a good visibility in winter, all the 180 degree available.

I would like your thoughts on that.
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Old 10-17-2007, 09:55 AM   #3
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...heat that clean the glace of ice and when its filmy, misty, steamy (I dont know the exact word in english but I'm sure you guys understant if you could translate it plz...). ....
Think you mean the "defroster" for the "fog" that appears on your windows, mainly the rear window.
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Old 10-17-2007, 09:55 AM   #4
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Yes - that is the defroster and defogger.
Vents at the windshield (front window) and heater wires in the rear window (for some cars).

Yes - if your car has no control for that vent at windshield (front) then it would be good to make something to close it. I think for most cars those vents are on-off by controlls for each. I don't think we need to use a block (like foam) to close it. Of course you want to watch which vents are open and which are closed.

Understand OK? What language do you speak?
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Currently getting +/- 50 mpg in fall weather. EPA is 31/39 so not too shabby. WAI, fuel cutoff switch, full belly pan, smooth wheel covers.

Now driving '97 Civic HX; tires ~ 50 psi. '89 Volvo 240 = semi-retired.
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Old 10-17-2007, 12:14 PM   #5
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Another quick mod - I blocked off the heater ducts to the other passenger positions. If wifey should ride with me I'll pull the foam out of the duct there. If you do this, check for rear seating area ducts too. I used foam pipe insulation since that's what I had handy. Works very well.

I plan on using the heat as little as possible, but when I do use it, the duct blocks should reduce some of the heat drain on the system.
Have you noticed a difference from this? I'm wondering if it might be better to just shove some cardboard in front of the radiator (which is what I usually do).

-Bob C.
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Old 10-18-2007, 11:44 AM   #6
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Seems it's generally agreed that a grill block is a good thing.
So having blocked my rad sufficiently to cause the fan to come on occasionally on warm days, I think I've gone as far as I dare with that.

However the Volvo has a high-output heater. The a/c sucks but the heater will melt the polar ice caps. So I decided to block off the three duct outlets that don't help me stay warm (two are for rear seating area). This should allow less air through the heater core and thus less cooling effect on the coolant. I figure, any reduction in energy blown off as heat is fuel saved. Why heat the whole cabin when I just need to heat my part of it?

I usually run the heater without the fan - just the normal air flow. So with fewer vents open there will be less air flow and less heat sucked off the engine.

No idea yet if it helps. So far I haven't needed the heater - but I know that eventually I will.
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Currently getting +/- 50 mpg in fall weather. EPA is 31/39 so not too shabby. WAI, fuel cutoff switch, full belly pan, smooth wheel covers.

Now driving '97 Civic HX; tires ~ 50 psi. '89 Volvo 240 = semi-retired.
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Old 10-18-2007, 01:35 PM   #7
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Yes - that is the defroster and defogger.
Vents at the windshield (front window) and heater wires in the rear window (for some cars).

Yes - if your car has no control for that vent at windshield (front) then it would be good to make something to close it. I think for most cars those vents are on-off by controlls for each. I don't think we need to use a block (like foam) to close it. Of course you want to watch which vents are open and which are closed.

Understand OK? What language do you speak?
Yes I understand, is was just out of subject with my desfrost vents, but anyway. I speak french (canadian).

About blocking the heat to the back of the cabine its a good idea. I have a civic VX and I would like to had a rear cargo cover to keep that part cold, to save some heat lost. Also for the road noise too, all year long.
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