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Old 10-02-2009, 01:29 PM   #1
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Smile simple to make hydrogen generator

I made and used this in Canada for 6 months,buy some hi grade stainless pan scourer,enough to fill a mans sock twice,fill the sock with the scourers and pass the conducter of a cable through scourers and fold onto same to make good connection,remaining scourers open up like stainless donuts and put over the sock so it is covered, make a cable connection as before,make sure there is no connection between the 2 sets of scourers,put in a suitable large glass jar fill with water and a small amount of bicar aprox 1 tspoon to a litre, you will need to make suitable pipe and electrical connections onthe lid of the jar,when 12v dc is applied across cable te generator will produce hydroxy and as it warms up it will produce a great deal,enough to give me 80 mpg on an old vw jetta turbo diesel,always use a bubler to isolate generator from engine and to prevent flashback ,the generator never failed and even worked in -25 conditions by adding neat antifreeze, I discovered incidently that frozen electrolite does not conduct so once frozen the generator will not warm up via the 12 volts ,hope this info is of interest baz maz
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Old 10-02-2009, 02:57 PM   #2
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Interesting approach though. Stainless steel wool seems kinda hard to come by. Any time I buy steel wool it rusts under the kitchen sink. I'd love to know where I could get stainless.
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Old 10-02-2009, 03:54 PM   #3
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Well, that does give you a lot of surface area!
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Old 10-02-2009, 05:50 PM   #4
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I don't think it's the wool so much as those circular type scouring pads that appear to be made from a mesh tube scrunched up and tied in the middle. They come in copper too, which are what is good for PCV jars. I hadn't realised the "shiny" variety was stainless.

Edit: Running just 2 plates at 12V isn't terribly efficient though. Great idea about pulling them apart to use as tubes though. They should stretch thinner, so you could use a plastic tube for a core and layer them. I wouldn't recommend any but nylon socks though, the lye (bicarb turns into lye in about 5 mins of operation) would eat wool, cotton etc. I'd recommend something a bit wider weave too, though I guess with a single plate set it just comes out the top... but I'd figure on something like that plastic drywall tape to wrap the layers would work better for multilayer/multi-cell.

There's a "sweet spot" concentration for lye that will stay liquid down to -17C... think it was in ICI or someone's data sheet, round about 25%ish, it's posted on here somewhere.
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Old 10-07-2009, 12:06 PM   #5
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SS wool has some draw backs. the great advantage of the dry cell is that there are cells with in it so the voltage across each one is close to the minimen voltage necessary to perform the reaction. (1.23 volts is theoreticly ideal, but in practice 2-4 volts works out better) any voltage over 1.23 is going to produce a lot of heat there by wasting energy from your alternator.
Wool is unpredictable, and is prone to shorting out.
It's hard to get a really good electrical connection to it so the system has more resistance.
The surface area dose make it look like a good choice, but there are some complications which, in my opion, make it a bad choice.
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Old 10-09-2009, 03:07 PM   #6
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Smile stainless pan scourers not wire wool.

Hi everyone I have built a number of these simple generators, and also a number of other types ,multiplate,toridle,and joetube,they all worked but this desighn is simple and works very well,I wrote the thread to help people to save on fuel without spending a fortune,you can analize its construction or you can simply build it and reap the benefits, it cost me $3 ca to build it,yes realy, and when warmed up produced reliably, as I said in my first thread this is installed in my vw in canada and still working very well although I myself am back in the uk now,I must have saved several hundred dollars on fuel while there thanks to the hydrogen generator,its true you do need synthetic socks thanks for that valued point,if you build this you will kick yourself for not doing it sooner,I was truly amazed how well it works,you do not need a neutral layer or a science degree to build it,I tried the neutral layer and found no benefit and as it is it out performs most generators of the same size,my advice,give it a go,it has passed the road trials test for me, all I want is to make a difference for the benefit of others, remember often simple is best and this generator is simple,Bazmaz
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Old 10-16-2009, 10:39 PM   #7
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using stainless pan scourer

Does anyone have a video of how this would be made? Using a plastic tube sounds better then a sock. I'm puzzled as to how the electrical connections are made on each S/S pads. If the connections are in the solution, will it not deteriorate over a short period of time? I guess the glass container is air tight and is the bubler, you mentioned, a good protection for safety. How is the bubler built? If this setup produces a lot of gas, does it need to be controlled? Somewhere on the web I saw a video that was very scary. Where the outside container, a larger plastic tube could expand and explode. So, that this doesn't happen the container has to be a thick metal tube of (S/S). It has something to do with the vacuum of the engine in a sealed container where HHO gas is building up with no vacuum. If this information is correct I wonder what happens to the engine when the compressed HHO is required. Does the it run faster? I don't know if this really happens, but it sounds scary. If that is the case, would the glass container be safe to use?

Also, I have read alot about modifing the Oxygen sensor. Would that be the case, here as well? Thanks for this great inexpensive HHO setup.
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Old 10-18-2009, 11:52 AM   #8
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Along this idea you might screw the SS pad to the plasitic lid with a stainless steel bolt or screw right through the lid and make that the contact on the outside of the jar lid. Also how about a plastic scruffy unwrapped as an insulator since we are getting things from the kitchen anyway. I think they are also a tube folded in upon itself to make the pad.
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Old 10-28-2009, 02:18 PM   #9
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Smile

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Originally Posted by JanGeo View Post
Along this idea you might screw the SS pad to the plasitic lid with a stainless steel bolt or screw right through the lid and make that the contact on the outside of the jar lid. Also how about a plastic scruffy unwrapped as an insulator since we are getting things from the kitchen anyway. I think they are also a tube folded in upon itself to make the pad.
Hi the best way to connect to the scourer or at least the way I used as it was easy and just kept on working was to strip back 2.5 mil copper approx 3 inches and tin the copper with solder(to to help resist corrosion) I then passed it through scourer and folded it back on itself so it held the scourer firmly this proved very effective,I used a metal lid jar and soldered 3/8 copper pipe in for connection of tube it is inportant when doing this to pack the lid seal with damp tissue to prevent the seal from being damaged by heat you can also install extra tube to allow cables out and seal the cables with high temp silicone,this can be purchase on e bay, it does not matter if you use old sock or something else that seperates and insulates,I used what I had available that suited my purpose and for me it worked well and still does, a bubbler needs to be installed higher than the generator to ensure that the generator remains full of water,I know the simlicity of my design puts some people off but hey if it works why fix it,I do not recomend pulling strands of the scourer under a terminal bolt as the stainless is high resistance so you need a large surface contact i.e. conductor right through then back on itself,to overcome this, hope this helps,bazmaz
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