I agree, once you get your engine started again you should be in the gear that you want to be in for driving at that speed, this should alow for a compleatly smooth bump start like stated.
the last vehicle that I drove that had power steering was a full size truck, and I had the engine die on me a few months back with it while going thru town, it was one of the scarriest exprinces, because the whole truck became 20 times harder to steer, and the brakes hardly worked starting as soon as the engine died, all because of a bad engine sensor on a vehicle with 14,000 miles, alot of vehicles had simaler modles that have non power steering steering racks that can be swaped out giving you the greater efficentcy of not running a power steering pump, and the only time you will notice it's not there is maybe while parking, altho even in a parking lot I can swing my wheels around with one finger on the wheel.
I also found that if I take a route from work in to town (not really twards home) that after driving for a quarter might straight up hill, that I can coast for the next 2 miles with the enigne off, and that I have enough vaccum saved up to use the brakes twice, the third time the assist is loosing affectivenes.
most of the time tho I tend to leave my engine running, and just bump start in the driveway, and parking lots, if the car will roll at all you can normal bump start after being parked.
I've added a few extra steps that smooth things out when I bump start:
press clutch or put car in neutral
turn key to off position, wait for motor to stop
turn key to on position so turn signals still work
When it's time to bump start:
turn key off
lift foot off clutch
turn key on
I've found that the extra key off/key on eliminates any surging or attempts of the ecu to add fuel when it senses the engine starting from a stop. It's a seamless transition for me and my car.
Bump starting is all up to what car you have, speeds and such. I bump start my Civic in 2,3,4,5. Just depends on the speeds and whats going on around me. Sometimes I bump it in one gear and place it in another for the movement needed. There is no iron clad way to know what will work for you and not me. I have to do things different in the Ranger than the Civic.
Please get out on a abandoned road or parking lot and get the basics down. Please push your car and yourself to find out what you can and cant do. The lack of power steering bothers some drivers a lot. Find out if you have the upper body strength to eoc as they call it here. If you cant throw your car around and make emergency maneuvers don't do it on the roads. Also find out how fast you loose your brake boost. And see if you have enough leg to stop the car in the event you loose boost. Also make sure you know where the emergency brake is and how to use it.
Eoc/Fas along with P&G are very advanced tools of the hypermilers tool bag. Don't just strike out and start off with these tools. Im almost to the point of not saying anything about them in the public because of the over all lack of drivers knowledge and skill levels.
09 HCHII, w/Navi
07 Mazda3 S Touring, 5MT
Mild Hypermiler or Mad Man?
Use the tools that you are comfortable with . I myself am opposed to the idea of EOC/bumping , BUT thats just me . That may very well change as I get used to the car and the idea of loss of full control .The benefits of stretching the tank are definitely there .The ingrained philosophy of it being unsafe was taught to me from day 1 behind the wheel - changing that thought process will take some time.
Well, today was my first attempt at bump starting. I tried it late at night with no cars on the road, and also in my own driveway. It simply won't work with my Eagle. The steering wheel completely locks up and the brake pedal jams. I was lucky to not wreck in my own driveway.
The Metro on the otherhand was a different story. The manual steering works equally well with or without the engine on. The brakes work fine, but I did notice a peculiar oddity. You can only press the brake pedal once and receive maximum braking. After that braking is substantially weaker, though not to a level which is 'unsafe'. Perhaps someone can explain that, though I am assuming it may have something to do with pressure build up?
The Metro is an auto. I simply shifted into neutral, turned it off, and then turned it back on when I needed to accelerate again, then shifted to D. Is this fine? I am concerned about the long term effects on bump starting though. Has anyone noticed starter wear from having to crank the engine so many times? If so, I'll have to curb my bump starting habits. Right now, I am doing engine off coasting down signifcant hills (neutral for minor ones) and up to stop signs (and lights if applicable... depends on simply judging the road). Is this too much?
with the metro you not really bumpstarting it. i do the same in my car because it isnt a manual. it can harm your tranny after a while because there isnt any oil getting to a specifc bearing in a auto tranny.