I know of someone who has some connections in the tire industry and had some interesting things to share on max pressures. For obvious reasons, he wouldn't tell me the manufaturer or the exact pressure, but did say that a tire was inflated to "well over the 200 psi level" and didn't burst. He has driven on tires that were pumped to 120 for a short time. I think krousdb knows who I'm talking about.
I am currently running 60 psi in my Goodyear Assurance Comfortread's. The max pressure on the sidewall is 44 and I have seen no odd tread wear patterns after nearly 5,000 miles. The same tires on my son's car(formerly "my temporary ride") have nearly 10,000 miles and no wear problems. He has let his tires drop to just over 50 psi.
Horsepower is how hard you hit the wall, torque is how much of the wall you take with you.
I have yet to hear my tires squeel but I did a fast turn onto a side street today then had to brake for a dump truck pulling out of a gas station and the ABS kicked in on the right rear I think - thumping noise as I stopped. Interesting effect on higher tire pressure - less squeeling when cornering and braking. Think about this - when you corner hard and brake hard there is more load on the tire and less pressure would cause the tire to flatten and wear on the outer tread.
Ok next believe it or not I have noticed that my xB was pulling a little to the left for the past week or so . . . left front 36psi right front 37.8psi . . . if that little difference can affect the handling then it IS sensitive to pressure and should mean that some higher pressure would reduce rolling friction even further. I think 5psi higher and then 5 lower and 10 lower test runs are in order. Meaning 28 33 38 43 psi test runs.
This subject comes up all the time. Has anyone every had a tubless tire(in good condition) explode because of over inflation on a car? The paranoia of tires exploding seems to be a hold over from the tubless days. I don't think the FE benifits are that great once you hit a certain point it just a matter of finding it and what kind of ride qualities you are willing to put up with to get it. Keep in mind anytime you do something that is not recomended by the manufactor that you open yourself up for all kinds of liabilities.
Ah! Lawyers rule! Does anyone here remember the initial days of IMSA road racing (Street Sedan class)? Street tires only! Most teams would shave the tread to 1/2 depth...to reduce the centrifugal forces in the tread rubber... and jack the pressures to 50-60 psi at each corner.These were B.F. Goodrich tires (was this why the series was called the "BF Goodrich series"?). Hmmm....
I knew the owner / 1 (of 2) drivers of this team; AMC knew them, too (main sponsor)!
Ok running 40psi seemed like a nice round number and it seems to work well on yesterdays and today's trip only the SG2 didn't shut down last night so it is still averaging from yesterdays driving GRRRRR! But considering light rain and winds and several stop lights I got 42.2 on todays 20 mile trip with most of my down hill coasting stretches were into the wind slowing me down too much and last night was night time and today had marker lights on.
The ride is much rougher at 60 PSI than at 32. CHoose what you are most comfortable with. I have run 50-60PSI for years with no issues. Tire wear has been normal.
Well it seems like if you feel a rougher ride, so do your shocks/struts, rubber bushings, tie rods, rack & pinion, and so on. I suppose this is okay if you run on flat roads, but when you hit bumps it probably wears out suspension & steering components much faster. Yes?