First of all... I am new to the HHO thing but I have been reading my arse off this past week sucking up all the knowledge I can. My hat is off to all you guys who have forged the way and created great documentation on this topic.
I am wanting to retrofit my vehicle like the rest of you and I didn't want to incure the cost of stainless steel. I already had about 3,000 surgical stainless steel disc that are about 2" in diameter with a punch out that is oblong (looks like a keychain). The hole fit perfect on a 5/16" thread.
Well.. Last night I built a LONG unit using these discs to fit inside a 4" PVC tube that is 2' in length. I spaced them out using standard nuts and made sure each one was equal. Where my pattern was P-N-N-P (Positive/Negative).
I did two banks of 7 positives with a 3" gap betwen the banks. Basically two 7 plate units on one set of rods.
The spacer was put in place to try and help prevent cavitation (spelling)... Like a boat propeller does in water, if the water is disturbed... You lose HP. I have read the same is true for HHO... You don't want too much saturation or cavitation as I call it.
Anyway... My kitchen test last night using straight tap water resulted in some alarming readings from the multimeter!
I used an old ATX compluter power supply that has the ability to put out up to 20A at 5VDC. The readings were as follows:
1) Readback voltage by just adding water to pipe (leads not on power supply) = 3VDC!
2) Read of resistance on pipe with clean calm water was about 100Ohms.
3) Under load (pipe connected to Power Supply) I showed a steady:
b) 250ma start current. During HHO reaction it climbed slowly to 280ma.
4) Unit did not excite like wall plates do under car battery load.... But the fact that it was producing was impressive to say the least.
5) The other interesting thing was... My readback voltgage of 30 min of run time was about 30VDC after disconnected from the PS. This rate declined slowly but steady until polarity reversed after reaching zero.
My questions for the group are:
1) what is the best plate design for the lowest amp consumption VS max gas output? (I know, thats like the million dollar question)
2) Where is a good resource for SS nuts and threaded lengths of 5/16"? I am using steel now (I know, bad)... But I can't find SS at Lowes or HomeDepot.
3) Does anyone have any schematics or visios that depict a self cooled unit without the use of fans? I want to use my bubler unit as a bulber and resevor and cooling unit.
Basically... On my return like from the bulber to the main energized pipe... I plan to run the fluid through a heat sink to help disipate the heat. Where the heat sink will be located near the grill of the auto.
4) How much of a prob is the O2 sensor on newer vehicles? I have a 2006 vehicle and I really don't want to be chopping on the factory wiring.
5) Has anyone heard of an HHO fan using the standard ECM computer coders that mechanics use to alter the timing of the vehicle to handle HHO?
6) Just like the above question... Has anyone seen ECM mods that lock in the range or limit the range of the O2 sensor?
7) Also... I know they sell ECM modifiers for those fart can cars with N2 stuff. Has anyone tried one of those with HHO?
OK... I think that's enough questions for now! LOL I could go on for hours!
One last one... Is there an HHO chat room anywhere, like yahoo IM rooms????
just so you know, stainless steel is a very poor conductor, of course it's cheap compared to better conductors, and less reactive, mostly due to it's film of non conductive transparent oxide, I forget off the top of my head what type of oxide this is, but just like rust is non conductive, the film that forms on stainless steel is not helping you, silver might be better as long as your water didn't have anything in it that would react with it, platinum is what they normally use.
I have heard that lower voltage with higher amps is better, 1.5v batteries is what I always used, a quick flip thru some books looks like keeping it under 6volts is best.
The HHO forums and all the info you can find will probably confuse you as much as help you. Much arguing and people pushing a particular point of view.
IMO...the main thing is to build a generator...and test it in a vehicle. I built my own design...but I'd recommend anyone starting out just make a known design to start out...cause it's hard enough to get one working in a car with trying to design it also.
I'd do the water4gas or smackbooster....exactly as designed. Keep it simple...keep it cool. Know the amps and cells temps in use. Use as part of a system. Do it SAFELY.
i am pleased your a HHO beliver, im finding it so hard in these forums to fined any ideas as every one has there own views on the matter, i would be happy to share torts with you as i am interested in developing this
i have already has rely surprising results like your 280-ma production
Russ . .
I also have information on my HH-O Forums
we're working on some of the same things as you are, and NOT pushing personal agendas. It's sort of a collaboration of ideas seeking the best methods as we experiment. New site, expanding FAST! http://hhoinfo.ning.com/
I think a set of aluminum plates with a couple holes drilled in them...two SS tubes shoved thru those, connected at one end with a piece of tubing would suffice for a little radiator to put in front of your car radiator. I plan to do it myself, heat being a problem with a modified Smack, until I can find another way to keep my output without the heat. (main modification is 1mm between plates, using innertube rubber for washers, and every other plate edges ground off - pics on the site)
$1000.00 in parts can save you HUNDREDS in gas!
Lowes has SS bolts, nuts and washers where I live. They are in a separate bin from the regular zinc hardware. I had to ask a sales associate where to find it. They also have regular 5/16 all thread. I haven't been able to find any SS all thread.
As ZugyNA above said, you will get lots of information from some of the Yahoo groups. Most people control the amperage and heat problem by controlling the amount of either Sodium or Potassium Hydroxide added to distilled water. The smack booster is a good design to build and with the addition of heat shrink controls the heat problem. I believe the newest research advocates the addition of 2 cells to the smack design. While it is always good to look at the problems with new eyes and an out of the box approach, it is also time consuming trying to re-invent the wheel. There is lots and lots of info at both the watercar and hydroxy group lists. Some of these fellow researchers and inventors have been trying out hydrogen generator designs for several years.