any type of pump can cavitate if it's trying to draw more of any fluid than is available. Cavitation manifests itself in the LOW pressure part of the pump, not the high pressure side. the shortest way to say it is that the pump draws more fluid than can be supplied and the pressure on the intake side drops so low the liquid boils. the alternating water/air impacts can damage just about everything involved.
cylinder wall bubbling is a whole different animal
Thanks for clearing that up - I misunderstood him- I thought he was saying that his strong water pump was causing cavitation holes in his cylinder 1 and 2 liners. I didn't understand that he was saying that cavitation was destroying his water pump impeller- that makes a little more sense to me.
If local pressure drops below the boiling point of the liquid, the liquid boils. Bubbles erode metal. That is precisely what happens to some 7.3 liter IH engines.
Yes, I perfectly meant the cavitation eroded the cylinder walls, not the pump impellor.
For years, guys relied on a molybdate solution to suppress cavitation but this was a high-maintenance affair. With Evans NPG you dry out the cooling system (drain it and let a heat gun blow through the block to dry up the low spots). Fill 'er up with glycol and forget it.
2000 Ford F-350 Super Cab Pickup
4x2, 6 speed manual
Regeared to 3.08:1
4 inch suspension slam
Aero mods: "Fastback" fairing and rugged air dam and side skirts
Stock MPG: 19
Summer MPG: 27.0
Winter MPG: 24