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Old 09-15-2006, 02:17 PM   #21
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Don't forget the part about wanting to do an experiment. I need to be able to restore the OEM ride height on the side of the road in < 5 minutes. So far I'm liking zip ties and ratchet straps.
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Old 09-15-2006, 02:20 PM   #22
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PS - I'd also bet on barely measurable result for 1.5 inches on this car @ 55 mph. Or a very small result, < 2%. But Lexus does it for CdA. So did Lincoln. But before I go making my car ride worse for no good reason, I want to try it.
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Old 09-15-2006, 02:39 PM   #23
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You know I got like around 60mpg on my Geo on a trip to Western PA when on my way back with the car fully loaded and riding low.
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Old 09-15-2006, 04:57 PM   #24
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG
PS - I'd also bet on barely measurable result for 1.5 inches on this car @ 55 mph. Or a very small result, < 2%. But Lexus does it for CdA. So did Lincoln. But before I go making my car ride worse for no good reason, I want to try it.
You must need a combo of lowered ride height and optimum ground effects to reduce the drag beneath the car.

BTW, If you start dragging the frame, you've lowered it far enough.
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Old 09-15-2006, 07:34 PM   #25
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Someone pointed out to me recently that I really ought to test the aero mods at higher speeds. Since drag rises with the square of velocity (did I say that right - I understand the concept perfectly, but always feel like I'm saying it backwards), for purposes of measurement, I'd be better off going faster in the tests since the difference (if there is one) will stand out better from the normal noise of variability.

They're right. The only reason I don't, is because I don't drive faster than 55. And I want to know actual readings, rather than extrapolating down from a higher speed. I should probably reconsider.
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Old 09-15-2006, 10:59 PM   #26
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Well maybe they say that because with going faster there will be more of a difference (to be more concrete) but...you can never take away the variables at any speed unless you are in Physics I lab.


On a related note....A little bit of Ground Control and Koni love.



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Old 09-16-2006, 09:44 AM   #27
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my konis rock and roll all night... and party every day
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Old 09-16-2006, 09:48 AM   #28
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my old suspension is soo ****ty, i can't wait to swap it out...
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Old 09-16-2006, 05:50 PM   #29
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG
Don't forget the part about wanting to do an experiment. I need to be able to restore the OEM ride height on the side of the road in < 5 minutes. So far I'm liking zip ties and ratchet straps.
I have one word: HYDRAULICS!

Make it into a lowrider....then you can do all kinds of stuff.
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Old 09-16-2006, 09:43 PM   #30
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How about lower the car to the height you want it. take the bolt off the top of the strut so it can drop down. Jack the car up to release tension on the spring then stick a u shaped shim made out of a wood block like a 1x6. the wood is 3/4 but since the spring will sit flat on top and not ride in the groove made for it that should get the car up around an inch. And if you get lucky lowering the jack the strut bolt will stick back through the hole, just slap the nut on and move to the other side.

PS this is how I lowered my car Just took the nut off the strut and jacked the car up. I used a 4 1/2 inch cutoff wheel and cut the spring twice, half a coil at a time. Then just dropped the car down keeping the strut lined up to go back in the hole. Prob 20 min to cut both front springs and have the car sitting lower. Didn't even take off the tires. Back was sagging real bad already

Another idea is that interior weight is likely no difference to level road, steady state driving so just add some 45lb weights to the front floorboards and back seat. That will squat the car plenty.
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