Best way to do a lowering experiment? - Page 3 - Fuelly Forums

Click here to see important news regarding the aCar App

Go Back   Fuelly Forums > Tech, Troubleshooting and Repair > Experiments, Modifications and DIY
Today's Posts Search Click Here to Login
Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
 
Old 09-15-2006, 01:17 PM   #21
Registered Member
 
MetroMPG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,223
Country: United States
Don't forget the part about wanting to do an experiment. I need to be able to restore the OEM ride height on the side of the road in < 5 minutes. So far I'm liking zip ties and ratchet straps.
__________________

MetroMPG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2006, 01:20 PM   #22
Registered Member
 
MetroMPG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,223
Country: United States
PS - I'd also bet on barely measurable result for 1.5 inches on this car @ 55 mph. Or a very small result, < 2%. But Lexus does it for CdA. So did Lincoln. But before I go making my car ride worse for no good reason, I want to try it.
__________________

MetroMPG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2006, 01:39 PM   #23
Registered Member
 
JanGeo's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 2,444
Country: United States
Location: Tiverton, RI
Send a message via Yahoo to JanGeo
You know I got like around 60mpg on my Geo on a trip to Western PA when on my way back with the car fully loaded and riding low.
JanGeo is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2006, 03:57 PM   #24
Tuggin at the surly bonds
 
Silveredwings's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 839
Country: United States
Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG
PS - I'd also bet on barely measurable result for 1.5 inches on this car @ 55 mph. Or a very small result, < 2%. But Lexus does it for CdA. So did Lincoln. But before I go making my car ride worse for no good reason, I want to try it.
You must need a combo of lowered ride height and optimum ground effects to reduce the drag beneath the car.

BTW, If you start dragging the frame, you've lowered it far enough.
__________________
Reality is merely an illusion, albeit a very persistent one. - Albert Einstein
Silveredwings is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2006, 06:34 PM   #25
Registered Member
 
MetroMPG's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2005
Posts: 4,223
Country: United States
Someone pointed out to me recently that I really ought to test the aero mods at higher speeds. Since drag rises with the square of velocity (did I say that right - I understand the concept perfectly, but always feel like I'm saying it backwards), for purposes of measurement, I'd be better off going faster in the tests since the difference (if there is one) will stand out better from the normal noise of variability.

They're right. The only reason I don't, is because I don't drive faster than 55. And I want to know actual readings, rather than extrapolating down from a higher speed. I should probably reconsider.
MetroMPG is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-15-2006, 09:59 PM   #26
Registered Member
 
tomauto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 292
Country: United States
Send a message via AIM to tomauto Send a message via MSN to tomauto Send a message via Yahoo to tomauto
Well maybe they say that because with going faster there will be more of a difference (to be more concrete) but...you can never take away the variables at any speed unless you are in Physics I lab.


On a related note....A little bit of Ground Control and Koni love.



__________________
Current Stable
GasSaver: 2000 Honda Insight Silverstone w/AC 65+mpg
Track Terror: 2002 Honda S2000 Gran Prix White- lots of mods - 28mpg
Beater: 1988 Honda Civic DX Hatback - Stripped - 30mpg

RIP: 1996 Honda Civic LX 42mpg - you will be missed

https://tomauto.smugmug.com/Cars
tomauto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2006, 08:44 AM   #27
|V3|2D
 
thisisntjared's Avatar
 
Join Date: Mar 2006
Posts: 1,186
Country: United States
Send a message via AIM to thisisntjared
my konis rock and roll all night... and party every day
__________________
don't waste your time or time will waste you
thisisntjared is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2006, 08:48 AM   #28
Registered Member
 
tomauto's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 292
Country: United States
Send a message via AIM to tomauto Send a message via MSN to tomauto Send a message via Yahoo to tomauto
my old suspension is soo ****ty, i can't wait to swap it out...
__________________
Current Stable
GasSaver: 2000 Honda Insight Silverstone w/AC 65+mpg
Track Terror: 2002 Honda S2000 Gran Prix White- lots of mods - 28mpg
Beater: 1988 Honda Civic DX Hatback - Stripped - 30mpg

RIP: 1996 Honda Civic LX 42mpg - you will be missed

https://tomauto.smugmug.com/Cars
tomauto is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2006, 04:50 PM   #29
Registered Member
 
ZugyNA's Avatar
 
Join Date: May 2006
Posts: 587
Country: United States
Quote:
Originally Posted by MetroMPG
Don't forget the part about wanting to do an experiment. I need to be able to restore the OEM ride height on the side of the road in < 5 minutes. So far I'm liking zip ties and ratchet straps.
I have one word: HYDRAULICS!

Make it into a lowrider....then you can do all kinds of stuff.
__________________
Leading the perpetually ignorant and uninformed into the light of scientific knowledge. Did I really say that?

a new policy....I intend to ignore the nescient...a waste of time and energy.
ZugyNA is offline   Reply With Quote
Old 09-16-2006, 08:43 PM   #30
Senior Member
 
CoyoteX's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2012
Posts: 230
Country: United States
Location: Southern WV
How about lower the car to the height you want it. take the bolt off the top of the strut so it can drop down. Jack the car up to release tension on the spring then stick a u shaped shim made out of a wood block like a 1x6. the wood is 3/4 but since the spring will sit flat on top and not ride in the groove made for it that should get the car up around an inch. And if you get lucky lowering the jack the strut bolt will stick back through the hole, just slap the nut on and move to the other side.

PS this is how I lowered my car Just took the nut off the strut and jacked the car up. I used a 4 1/2 inch cutoff wheel and cut the spring twice, half a coil at a time. Then just dropped the car down keeping the strut lined up to go back in the hole. Prob 20 min to cut both front springs and have the car sitting lower. Didn't even take off the tires. Back was sagging real bad already

Another idea is that interior weight is likely no difference to level road, steady state driving so just add some 45lb weights to the front floorboards and back seat. That will squat the car plenty.
__________________

CoyoteX is offline   Reply With Quote
Reply


Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are Off
Pingbacks are Off
Refbacks are Off


Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
Incorrect mileage calculation? tonedepear Fuelly Web Support and Community News 6 04-04-2011 12:04 AM
Export fuel-ups angelolopes Fuelly Web Support and Community News 2 08-04-2010 01:46 AM
No EPA Est for 2007 Chrysler Town & Country jklaiber Fuelly Web Support and Community News 1 08-23-2008 12:15 AM
Motocycle Data pb Fuelly Web Support and Community News 12 08-18-2008 06:06 AM
WTB: HX or VX Wheels GasSavers_DaX Wanted to Buy 6 07-12-2006 09:50 PM

Powered by vBadvanced CMPS v3.2.3


All times are GMT -8. The time now is 12:59 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8 Beta 1
Copyright ©2000 - 2024, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.