Crazy Crazy Coroplast. DIY interior and Grille Block - Page 4 - Fuelly Forums

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Old 04-09-2006, 04:31 AM   #31
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temp

actually I think a thermostat tweek is in order to get it a little higher temp normally and to make sure it closes well. Takes about 4 miles to get up to temp plus it may run better a little hotter. A lot of times the idle is over 800 when I pop it in neutral and coast and it should be in the 650 range.
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Old 04-09-2006, 07:02 AM   #32
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Mine takes 4.5-5 miles to

Mine takes 4.5-5 miles to open. I idle about 650. But still it's a gas guzzler due to heavy weight.
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Old 04-09-2006, 11:32 AM   #33
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Re: Here is the completed Grille

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Originally Posted by krousdb
Here is the completed Grille Block. Notice the rectangular hole for cooling durnig warmer temps. Next winter i will cover the hole with duct tape and paint it balck.
What did you cover the coroplast with? How did you attach this to the bumper?
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Old 04-09-2006, 11:34 AM   #34
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Haha, good questions!

Haha, good questions!
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Old 04-09-2006, 11:35 AM   #35
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I'm just interested in this

I'm just interested in this mod...will probably actually perform this one.
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Old 04-09-2006, 11:36 AM   #36
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I will too. Whenev I get

I will too. Whenev I get around to painting my trim I will mount this up and then just paint it on in.
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Old 04-09-2006, 03:09 PM   #37
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you have to enable

you have to enable datalogging on the chip in your ecu as well

im one of the sufferers who hasn't gotten datalogging to work either
i've tried both usb and serial with no luck

very agimatated

i've seen this cloroplast around this site a few times already...
where is it available at...?
is this that cardboard thickness stuff that seems like its made out of styrofoam...?
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Old 04-09-2006, 03:14 PM   #38
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It's corogated plastic, like

It's corogated plastic, like they make house sale signs out of. Go to a sign ship says most people.
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Old 04-09-2006, 03:51 PM   #39
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Re: Here is the completed Grille

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What did you cover the coroplast with? How did you attach this to the bumper?
I covered the coroplast with flat black paint.

First I had to make spacers to offset the grille block from the inset grille. I cut 21 2"x2" squares of coroplast, made 3 stacks of 7 pieces and put a 1 5/8" drywall screw through the center of each stack (cube). Then I drilled 3 holes in the center black plastic piece that goes horizontal from left to right. Then I screwed the coroplast squares to the center horizontal piece at the left, center and right sides. Then I placed the grille block in place against the three cubes and drove 3 more drywall screws through the grille block and into the cubes. I guess I will have to yank it off and take pictures. Not tonight. Somebody remind me tomorrow evening.
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Old 04-09-2006, 09:55 PM   #40
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Question

With the airflow on your summer intake port: a few questions (I'm really considering this).

The hole: does air enter the hole, or is it a port to exhaust the rad-A/C heat, or both? My concern is the flow of air. So, the air enters the port, but where does the air exit? As you mentioned, the engine is nearly sealed. I understand that around the hood the gap may provide some relief, but where does the incoming air go in bulk? Otherwise the pressure builds, and nothing happens, so the hole is basically as good as a flat piece of Cloroplast. I'm imagining a small opening, where the hood closes, near the wipers. It may not require cutting of sheetmetal, but rather manipulation of the rubber gasketing or running it into the screened area where water drains from the windshield. A fancy version could have a a one way valve (perhaps a rubber flapper like the the positive ventilation valve behind the trunk paneling to keep fresh air moving through the car, but keeps the rain/sand/dust out.) Just a thought about the whole heat rises thing.

RH77
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