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Old 12-17-2007, 03:53 AM   #11
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Quote:
Originally Posted by archangel1usa View Post
I have installed 3 fuel vaporizers in different cars. One of them gave me a slight increase in mileage around 10%. Another gave about 16%. The third one was so dramatic that I'm not trusting the calcs. It came in at over 50%.

I recommend them. I used the vaporizer 2000. That was several years ago. I see there are newer models out now.

Be brave. Try one. It worked very well for me.
Any details on the vehicles and how they were set up?
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Old 12-18-2007, 10:37 AM   #12
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an interesting note. back when cars were a novelty there was a company who used a box filled with a wick. not sure what it was made out of, but the idea was that you filled the box with gas and the engine would suck the fumes off the top and that is how you got the fuel mix you need to light the cylinders.
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Old 12-19-2007, 05:55 AM   #13
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Something to try after your life insurance is paid up?

Quote:

i do have to say that before i got married, the most entertaining project that i built was a carburetor, and it had no floats, no valves, no jets, nothing to meter the gas flow. it did however have 2 fuel pumps, one in and one out. it worked on the "Chromotography" principle of "wicking" the fuel. worked great. in fact took all day to build. right on the kitchen floor. hooked it up to the heaviest Ford truck i owned that by proportion had the smallest V-8 for an F-350, this truck weighed in at 8900 pounds UNLOADED, and had the roughest ride. for power it had a 351 Windsor MPFI (Multi-Port Fuel Injected) and i found that by just tripping the inertia switch (a safety cutoff for accidents to shut off all power to the fuel pumps) that i hooked up the "carburetor" and measured outside temperature, which was -10 F and proceeded to pour in 1 cup of gasoline, close the lid on the carburetor, which was mounted as far from the engine as physically possible, and closed the hood, jumped in, fired it up, and drove like a madman in december, in winter, on ice, in a 25 MPH zone in circles around our subdivision, the "lap" around the subdivision's outer "loop" was aproximately 2.5 miles long. i did 4 laps, and finally pulled it into the driveway, shut the truck off, and removed the carburetor. top achieved speed on the "straight-a-way" (on ice remember dont need to wreck my truck for the hell of it) was 55 mph. i then poured out the entire contents of the carburetor, and then took the "wicking material" and squeezed all the gas out if it, and measured that, all in total my truck had consumed in a 10 mile run about 1/2 of a cup of gasoline at ambient thermal temperatures of -10 F (again that is ten degrees below ZERO F) anyone want to build one of these carburetors is more than welcome to. my wife (date at the time) thought it would never work, it was too simple, and she saw no was something like that would work. she also went to school and took auto-diesel technology courses, and she changes the oil and does the tune up on her own vehicles by herself. she's from a farm, and she's the type that could chew up bolts and spit out the heads. but, then again that could be a bad thing too.


1/2 cup = .031 gallon 1 / .031 X 10 miles = 322.5 mpg?



Quote:

ok carburetor instructions for assembly:

get an old military ammo can. you are going to need a welder to put some ducting on it (piping if you will) and then you are going to need what my construction friends call "Elephant diapers" about 12 of those. it is very important that the ducting be put on opposite ends of the ammo can. having a lid that opens is very important. also invest in 3 CO2 type fire extinguishers, others types will be self explanatory after you try to use it ONE time. my system was not a straight through for the reason that i WANTED turbulence inside the ammo can. i used 2" pipe coming in AND going out. this is important. in the F350 that i ran it on, it has these really long air ducting tubes that go from the throttle assembly to the air cleaner on the fender. i left the throttles intact. i just re-routed ONE tube to the ammo can, and PLUGGED the other. now the guts of the ammo can must be carefully measured for assembly. this is what the elephant diapers are for. where the pipe goes in and comes out of must be at the same height. my pipes were directly opposite, but on caddy corners to the end so the air flow had to make a "S" pattern as it flowed through.

the elephant diapers are cut into rectangular strips and placed in VERTICALLY: as in standing on end like the letter "I" the can lid opens from the top. the length of the Elephant diapers is directly proportional to the height of the CENTER of the inlet and outlets. the tops of the material should end in the center of the air stream of the inlets and be level across the top. (as best you can).

HOW IT WORKS: when the LIQUID gas is in the container, it is READILY absorbed into the Wicking material (Elephant Diapers), as the wicking material soaks up the gas, the gas will "wick" it's way to the top of the material. then as the air flows across the top of the material, it "dries" the gas off, thereby allowing more room for the wick to absorb more gas. here's the hitch: there is no rich or lean spot. there is no need for an accelerator pump, and if you need more fuel for acceleration, just open the throttle, the vacuum inside the manifold will pull more air across the "wick" and thereby get more fuel.

...there is not another "FREEFLOW" carburetor in existance out there on earth yet. this FREEFLOW action happens because as more air is drawn across the top, more fuel is "dried" or "PROPERLY VAPORIZED" and thoroughly mixed with the airstream. simple. now be careful, watch your fuel level!!!!

THIS CARBURETOR IS DANGEROUS!!!! rule of thumb, old carbureted engines: BACKFIRE out of the EXHAUST means TOO MUCH FUEL, however the opposite of both is true too, because BACKFIRE out intake means NOT ENOUGH FUEL!!!! backfire out the intake is extremely dangerous because it will flash back to your freeflow carburetor, and hence the need for the CO2 Fire extinguishers, the other type make a mess and WILL ruin your carburetor. it's that simple. no floats, no jets, no adjustments, no needles, no valves, no venturii, and no bull****.


Quote:

what i call Elephant Diapers are AKA ABSORBENT OIL CLEAN-UP MATS. they are found at industrial stores, NOT HOME DEPOT, NOT LOWE'S NOT WALLY WORLD NOT SAMS CLUB AND NOT SCHUCK'S NOT NAPA, NOT CARQUEST, PEPBOYS, AUTO-ZONE...they are industrial use, and you have to go to an industrial supply/hardware store. the larger the bag (QUANTITY), the cheaper they are.
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Old 12-19-2007, 06:06 PM   #14
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Doesn't fuel already vaprozie with a good, clean fuel injector?
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Old 12-19-2007, 06:16 PM   #15
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Originally Posted by caveatipse View Post
Doesn't fuel already vaprozie with a good, clean fuel injector?
The companies that make fuel injectors have taken over the government. They just want you to THINK this is so.
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Old 12-26-2007, 12:15 PM   #16
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I don't know about that fuel saver 700mpg bs thing but if you have a Fuel Injected car you can take from the high pressure side of you fuel pump (that is the side that spits fuel out to your engine), cut the fuel line close to the engine and then run it through a length of copper or steel tubbing that has been wrapped around your exhaust manifold 1-3 times that should get the fuel to vaporize better when used with injectors.

You must more careful when using this on carburetors do to the fact if you screw up you may get vapor lock or worse.

What happens with a FI system is that gasoline (or any liquid) boils at a high temp under pressure and lower in a vacuum. You have gasoline being heated under pressure and then sprayed in to a lower pressure environment open air or the vacuum of a piston sucking air in.

The problem I see with this is that a piston puts the gasoline back under pressure on the compression stroke but if it's mixed with the air better because it vaporized when the air came it should work.

It did work on my old VW with a carburetor and a 89 ford probe with FI I only had time to make one loop on each car though. The Bug I could see the gasoline boiling or at least simmering in the glass fuel filter. So I know that it does make a difference.
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Old 12-29-2007, 07:35 AM   #17
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Have you given up on the project? Do you think with the right pool of people it could be made safe? What other challenges did you face?

i do have to say that before i got married, the most entertaining project that i built was a carburetor, and it had no floats, no valves, no jets, nothing to meter the gas flow. it did however have 2 fuel pumps, one in and one out. it worked on the "Chromotography" principle of "wicking" the fuel. worked great. in fact took all day to build. right on the kitchen floor. hooked it up to the heaviest Ford truck i owned that by proportion had the smallest V-8 for an F-350, this truck weighed in at 8900 pounds UNLOADED, and had the roughest ride. for power it had a 351 Windsor MPFI (Multi-Port Fuel Injected) and i found that by just tripping the inertia switch (a safety cutoff for accidents to shut off all power to the fuel pumps) that i hooked up the "carburetor" and measured outside temperature, which was -10 F and proceeded to pour in 1 cup of gasoline, close the lid on the carburetor, which was mounted as far from the engine as physically possible, and closed the hood, jumped in, fired it up, and drove like a madman in december, in winter, on ice, in a 25 MPH zone in circles around our subdivision, the "lap" around the subdivision's outer "loop" was aproximately 2.5 miles long. i did 4 laps, and finally pulled it into the driveway, shut the truck off, and removed the carburetor. top achieved speed on the "straight-a-way" (on ice remember dont need to wreck my truck for the hell of it) was 55 mph. i then poured out the entire contents of the carburetor, and then took the "wicking material" and squeezed all the gas out if it, and measured that, all in total my truck had consumed in a 10 mile run about 1/2 of a cup of gasoline at ambient thermal temperatures of -10 F (again that is ten degrees below ZERO F) anyone want to build one of these carburetors is more than welcome to. my wife (date at the time) thought it would never work, it was too simple, and she saw no was something like that would work. she also went to school and took auto-diesel technology courses, and she changes the oil and does the tune up on her own vehicles by herself. she's from a farm, and she's the type that could chew up bolts and spit out the heads. but, then again that could be a bad thing too.


1/2 cup = .031 gallon 1 / .031 X 10 miles = 322.5 mpg?



Quote:

ok carburetor instructions for assembly:

get an old military ammo can. you are going to need a welder to put some ducting on it (piping if you will) and then you are going to need what my construction friends call "Elephant diapers" about 12 of those. it is very important that the ducting be put on opposite ends of the ammo can. having a lid that opens is very important. also invest in 3 CO2 type fire extinguishers, others types will be self explanatory after you try to use it ONE time. my system was not a straight through for the reason that i WANTED turbulence inside the ammo can. i used 2" pipe coming in AND going out. this is important. in the F350 that i ran it on, it has these really long air ducting tubes that go from the throttle assembly to the air cleaner on the fender. i left the throttles intact. i just re-routed ONE tube to the ammo can, and PLUGGED the other. now the guts of the ammo can must be carefully measured for assembly. this is what the elephant diapers are for. where the pipe goes in and comes out of must be at the same height. my pipes were directly opposite, but on caddy corners to the end so the air flow had to make a "S" pattern as it flowed through.

the elephant diapers are cut into rectangular strips and placed in VERTICALLY: as in standing on end like the letter "I" the can lid opens from the top. the length of the Elephant diapers is directly proportional to the height of the CENTER of the inlet and outlets. the tops of the material should end in the center of the air stream of the inlets and be level across the top. (as best you can).

HOW IT WORKS: when the LIQUID gas is in the container, it is READILY absorbed into the Wicking material (Elephant Diapers), as the wicking material soaks up the gas, the gas will "wick" it's way to the top of the material. then as the air flows across the top of the material, it "dries" the gas off, thereby allowing more room for the wick to absorb more gas. here's the hitch: there is no rich or lean spot. there is no need for an accelerator pump, and if you need more fuel for acceleration, just open the throttle, the vacuum inside the manifold will pull more air across the "wick" and thereby get more fuel.

...there is not another "FREEFLOW" carburetor in existance out there on earth yet. this FREEFLOW action happens because as more air is drawn across the top, more fuel is "dried" or "PROPERLY VAPORIZED" and thoroughly mixed with the airstream. simple. now be careful, watch your fuel level!!!!

THIS CARBURETOR IS DANGEROUS!!!! rule of thumb, old carbureted engines: BACKFIRE out of the EXHAUST means TOO MUCH FUEL, however the opposite of both is true too, because BACKFIRE out intake means NOT ENOUGH FUEL!!!! backfire out the intake is extremely dangerous because it will flash back to your freeflow carburetor, and hence the need for the CO2 Fire extinguishers, the other type make a mess and WILL ruin your carburetor. it's that simple. no floats, no jets, no adjustments, no needles, no valves, no venturii, and no bull****.


Quote:

what i call Elephant Diapers are AKA ABSORBENT OIL CLEAN-UP MATS. they are found at industrial stores, NOT HOME DEPOT, NOT LOWE'S NOT WALLY WORLD NOT SAMS CLUB AND NOT SCHUCK'S NOT NAPA, NOT CARQUEST, PEPBOYS, AUTO-ZONE...they are industrial use, and you have to go to an industrial supply/hardware store. the larger the bag (QUANTITY), the cheaper they are.[/QUOTE]
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Old 12-29-2007, 11:23 AM   #18
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You gotta be kidding...
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Old 12-31-2007, 07:27 PM   #19
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Maybe you should build and install a Pouge Carburetor? Makes just as much sense.

Anyways, the EFI system on a car (if it's working right and you keep it clean) has enough pressure and spray to atomize fuel as much as it needs to be. If you want to vaporize it further have a small hole drilled through your exhaust valve and inject fuel down the stem.
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Old 01-02-2008, 04:59 PM   #20
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dkjones96 View Post
Maybe you should build and install a Pouge Carburetor? Makes just as much sense.

Anyways, the EFI system on a car (if it's working right and you keep it clean) has enough pressure and spray to atomize fuel as much as it needs to be. If you want to vaporize it further have a small hole drilled through your exhaust valve and inject fuel down the stem.

You better patent that one.
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