Unless you really want to "recycle", by making your own ramps, I also 2nd the suggestion of Rhino Ramps. While I don't use them often (mostly because I usually let my mechanic to car work, instead of doing it myself), they have worked great on those few occasions when I've tried them. And they were reasonably cheap to buy (if memory serves, my pair cost me around $40 at Walmart), for a pair of ramps that are made out of really STRONG plastic!
BTW: I got the 12,000lb set, not because I needed that much weight, but because they were wider (and therefore easier to drive up on) than the (slightly cheaper) 8,000lb set.
We have some ruff planed 3x10 ramps sinve I was a kid. They work great beveled the end so they don't move driving up. They feel a lot better on bare hands on a cold day and don't rust or make as much noise when dropped. Then can be raised up more or less with bricks too.
well i did the ramp and its heavy as ****.....lol but my car is like 2 inches off the ground so taht why the ramp was needed, i couldnt even get a jack under it i had to drive the car on the ramp then jack it up.....lol
That's the same reason I built my ramps. My last car was was too low to even get a low profile floor jack properly underneath. I built my ramps out of 2x6s three layers deep. It's not much of a lift, but at least at that point I could get a jack under the car!
Anyway, the middle layer is composed of three seperate blocks of 2x6 with about 8" spaces between them to lighten the ramp and provide carrying handles.
Obviously 6" is a bit narrow, but it has not presented much of a problem in how I have used them.
I did a "quickie" version that worked out well.
Discovered I had 2 - 2x10's on hand.
Cut two pieces 19" long, the other two about 36" long.
Two of the cuts I did at an angle so there's a bevelled surface for the tire to go up.
Just lay them down on top of each other and that's all.
When I get time I'll cut another pair for more height.
Lower "steps" can be 11-12 inches long, no problem.
(that is, 11" plus the part that's below the layer above it)
Top step should be longer (that's my 19 inchers) so you don't roll off the end when going up.
Leaving it as separate boards makes them easy to carry. Make some marks so it's easier to line them up when you stack them.
Currently getting +/- 50 mpg in fall weather. EPA is 31/39 so not too shabby. WAI, fuel cutoff switch, full belly pan, smooth wheel covers.
hmmm, leaving them separate could let one of them shoot out from under your tire if you accidently hit the gas or brake too hard. It's bad when my whole metal ramp shoots out from under the tire on slick concrete.
Back to your question, brucepick. As long as I can remember, my dad always had a pair of ramps/stands made from ~14" pieces of 2x4 assembled log-cabin style - about the size of a milk crate. The top pair of 2x's was set perpendicular to the tires so the tires nestled between the 2x's and didn't roll. I don't recall his ramp configuration, but it was removable (say, that sounds handy).
Boy, we used those blocks to support all kinds of stuff besides cars, we stood on them, etc. I may need to reinvent a set of those