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Old 06-03-2008, 05:24 PM   #11
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Zugy: yeah, that's the box, unfortunately there seems to be someone who used that very idea allready, so I don't claim it. I'll put a Smack level tube on it, maybe with a T fitting to another tank, possibly a small float valve...I'd like to find something like a miniature toilet valve...and gravity feed from another tank? I worry about G-force, braking and all, but it should work as long as it doesn't stick.
aRWyew...interesting, especially at the price of SS. Smack said the plates would touch at 1mm...but I've cut the bevels off of half the plates and have burnished the edges round with a wire wheel...then re-flattened them with a rubber mallet and a straightedge...made washers from an innertube (1MM!) and put them to the beveled plates on the opposite side. They look fine, no touching, and you can check them for warping with a flashlight any time. I don't know what'll happen when it gets warm tho. No time for the build just yet, but I'm taking pics.
I'm tinkering with some ideas like motorcycle oil coolers and running tubes thru the box from them...a fish pond pump maybe to circulate? Of course for my truck I'll probably need a higher output unit and a VPM to keep it cooler, along with the dual-edge MAP sensor enhancer.
Right now I'm wondering if the little Toyota alternator is gonna handle even a Smack type unit.
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Old 06-04-2008, 03:25 AM   #12
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I got a gain running at only 5-6 amps hot...good idea to start somewhere around that and then move up in amps?

Heres an idea I found "out there" that might work:

"Keeping the water level up in a cell:

I have come up with a very simple method of keeping the water level above the plates in an electrolysis tank.

The basic idea is that you use a water tank placed above the electrolysis tank, and the inlet hose to the electrolysis tank feeds in at the same level as the top of the plates.

The water tank should have a sealed top, and just a single hose outlet at the bottom to feed the electrolysis tank.

When the water level in the electrolysis tank falls below the level of the inlet hose, gas or air bubbles will move up the feed hose and water will drop down until the water level blocks off the feed hose, at which time the flow will stop.

It sounds simple, but i've been using this method for years to water seedlings in a tray when I sprout them for my garden. I use an old water bottle with one hole in the bottom, fill it with water and stand it in the tray with the jiffy pots.

Has anyone tried applying this simple idea to an electrolysis cell yet? It is certainly better than installing pumps and floats.



No, it'd be hydrogen. The top of the water tank would pressurise to the same pressure as the electrolysis tank and balance out the water level.

Only when the pressure in the electrolyzer drops after that, the pressure in the top of the water tank will then push the water down.

In other words, as long as you don't radically go changing the pressure in either tank in short spaces of time, it should still work.

Another possibility to combat the pressurising effect would be to install a 2nd hose at the top of the water tank that goes to the top of the electrolysis tank, and has a one-way valve that only allows airflow from the water tank to the electrolyzer.

Under normal circumstances, The water in the water tank is held up by it's own vacuum.

I would suggest you try this anyway, I think you'll be surprised how well it works."
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Old 06-04-2008, 03:34 AM   #13
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Quote:
Originally Posted by quadancer@bellsouth.net View Post
Smack said the plates would touch at 1mm...but I've cut the bevels off of half the plates and have burnished the edges round with a wire wheel...then re-flattened them with a rubber mallet and a straightedge...made washers from an innertube (1MM!) and put them to the beveled plates on the opposite side. They look fine, no touching, and you can check them for warping with a flashlight any time. I don't know what'll happen when it gets warm tho.
Throw the whole plate assembly deally in a pot of boiling water on the stove, then you'll know if it expands funny.
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Old 06-04-2008, 09:51 PM   #14
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design

You need nylon or plastic spacers between your plates of different polarity (+ or -)....they need to be electrically isolated. The design is okay. I have one similiar except it has an explosion relief valve on the top. It works but it's not the best design to take apart and to seal. Lowes has a water filter that's flat on top with two metal threaded fittings for hoses....you can use one for output and one for explosion relief. It also has a sealed screw on top. Very important because it will take you a while to understand the heat thing....stuff will loosen up in the process and you'll have to take it apart. also easy to clean.

Also, I believe you have 4 plates....correct me if I'm wrong. There's no gain to 4....you're better with 3 or 5. In a 4 plate system, the negative's give off hydrogen and the positives give off oxygen. There's no need for the extra oxygen plate. Just make two negative and one positive for a three plate system.

Be careful with what your doing....find someone who understands electrical stuff before you hook it up....hydrogen is very explosive. Believe me!!! I've seen it go bang. A small amount is like a shotgun blast. You're gonna be hell on fuses the way your hooked up.

I like a bubbler.....it's protection from backfire and it makes it easy to check if your system is working....look for the bubbles. A windshield reserve container or radiator reserve works nicely.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Nightwish View Post
I'm about to build my first HHO gen...

Based on what i saw, I built the inside with 4 SS plates all connected with SS screws. But now someone said that it will short out and never work.

How is the INSIDE plates put together and wired? I have fuses and a switch and a check valve , but am worried about the plates. Should they have rubber spacers?

here it is:





The canister...PVC tubing with caps...

Thanks
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Old 06-11-2008, 06:37 PM   #15
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testing it any day now; I'm busy with work first.
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Old 06-11-2008, 06:39 PM   #16
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Two bucks after searching thrift stores with a magnet. Also found
some SS pots, but as you get closer to the rims, they start showing ferrous material for some reason.
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Old 06-12-2008, 05:42 AM   #17
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Quote:
Originally Posted by ZugyNA View Post
Has anyone tried applying this simple idea to an electrolysis cell yet? It is certainly better than installing pumps and floats.
I've thought about doing it like that... then realised I'd end up with a large container full of stochio mix of HHO.... I didn't like that idea.... so I'm back to looking for small pumps and float valves.
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Old 06-12-2008, 05:22 PM   #18
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wow, no kiddin'! I was liking the idea too, except that there is thermal expansion and contraction to some extent - and I have no idea what would actually happen. Probably overfilling. I found a plastic float valve fairly cheap here:
http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/var...ant%5Fid=23077 -floatvalve$12.56
Now to figure out the height problems under the hood, and what to build my floatvalve tank out of - (pvc, probably) - and what to do about the excess water height needed in my generator (barely larger than the plates)...oh, and other considerations. At least it fits like a glove in the Silverado over the wheel well.
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