I have been toying with the idea of an onroad system for the car. Not necessarily for the improvement of power or combustion, but to remove the stuff that builds up in the CC after driving. The car smokes a bit, or has been, so the cleaning should have done it some good.
Parts: Stone bubbler, aquarium hose, one-way check valve, flow adjustment valve, and 500 ml coke bottle.
There is a vacuum port right behind the TB with a small 1/8 hose fitting. I simpley slid the hose on, with a short run to the check valve, then to the adjustment valve in the cabin, with the bubbler in the coke bottle as a filter. With spiritied driving the car ingested the water in about 15-20 minutes. No noticable smoke, stumbling or abnormalities. After all of the water was gone, I put everything back to normal, and enjoyed my smoother idle. I made sure to drive for another 20-30 minutes to make sure all of the water has been heated out of the oil.
Yeah, in about 20 minutes or so. I had to rotate the bottle when the water got low so that the stone could get to it all. Putting the hose through a straw in the coke bottle kept the stone in place. I think a smaller stone would make getting the last little bit easier, but all but maybe 4 drops were sucked out. When it finished, I close the flow adjuster so it wouldn't suck air.
I do wonder about the best place to get vacuum though. Would pre-TB or post-TB have better vacuum at high rpms?
Also, you could do this with water and a FI cleaner if you wanted to. When I have tried other times, the water would float on bottom, and the cleaner on top. The water would get the easy stuff, and the FI cleaner could get the left over stuff. You may have an rpm problem with the FI cleaner stuff though, since you are adding more fuel. Just pour in some more water after the FI stuff is through, because I don't know how the Aquarium stuff will take to the FI cleaner.
Theoretically, if your intake is restrictive Pre-TB would have higher vacuum at high RPMs. Post-TB vacuum is affected by the fact that the engine is trying to suck more air than the throttle butterflies are letting it get. This is only theoretical of course, Pre-TB vacuum shouldn't be very high at all, unless your intake is extremely restrictive. You're better off feeding it with an adjustable, low-flow pump than with vacuum.
I've played with the flow restricter on a washer fluid pump, and thought about it. I don't know if I want to play with the rear window pump with the valve, but really don't want that. I think that the vacuum will move enough, and will move it slow enough that the temperature can catch back up in the CC, and let the water do it's work. I have thought about just connecting to the rear pump, and letting it suck through the pump, without injecting.
left to it's own devices, vacuum will pull enough water through a 1/8" hose to kill the engine from 3k rpm. not hydrolock it, but displace enough air.
The quantity of water you introduced is about right for a bi-yearly cleaning. I like to use the fittign on the throttle body for the charcoal cansiter. 2 reasons: 1. only sucks water when the throttles open (when I'm there holding it and monitering) 2. the airflow past the throttle valve vaporizes and distributes the water very well. a vacuum fitting on the manifold after the throttle body most likely will not (certainly not in my engine). too far before the throttle body and the water drips in and puddles on the bottom of the hose rather than airflow carrying it into the engine.
washer fluid pumps can be had at farm n fleet for sure and most auto parts stores I'm guessing for $10-$20.
1991 Toyota Pickup 22R-E 2.4 I4/5 speed
1990 Toyota Cressida 7M-GE 3.0 I6/5-speed manual
mechanic, carpenter, stagehand, rigger, and know-it-all smartass
"You don't get to judge me for how I fix what you break"