Pics of My HHO Setup - Fuelly Forums

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Old 07-10-2008, 08:06 AM   #1
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Pics of My HHO Setup

This is my new setup. I say new because the old one was not efficient and small and kept melting under the hood (s10's have no room under the hood). The 4 cells each have 3 plates gapped about 1/8". The cells are in series/parallel (2 in series). With all 4 cell going, i draw between 15-18 amps. I have not done a displacement test yet, but bubbles from the bubbler through a 5/16" hose is about 3 bubbles a sec. The bubbler feeds into a copper tube that I ran under the truck to another bubbler under the hood. You'll see that pic further down. The idea behind this setup for me was more cells, less heat. A lot of the heat issues some are having can be easily solved, in my opinion, by adding a second or even third cell. I know room is an issue. but for the price of building a second cell i think its worth it.
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This is the bubbler that is under the hood. I have copper coiled up near the exhaust manifold to heat up the hydroxy to hopefully help combustion by raising intake temp. I did't read this anywhere. kind of an idea i had.
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This is where the copper line runs in to the intake and I have the vaccum line "t"-ed drawing from that line. Pay no attention to the pvc on the right. thats an old cell I removed.
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This is where I turn everything off and on. The switch to the left of the meter is for the cells. switch on the right is to let me adjust the map sensor when turned on. when off, the map sensor is in normal operation. The switch on the bottom lets choose what potentiometer for the map adjusting. I use the one on the left for city and the one on the right highway. you could just one and adjust accordingly, but i like just flipping a switch. Of course the scangauge on top of the ammeter. And finally, on the right side of the black box is the EFIE. My offset voltage is set about .235v. Adjusting my map allows me to set a higher offset (found this out when i only had my efie on an not my map. i could not get out of open loop mode until i turned on my map adjustment). I just want to say if you are making sensor adjustments, Scanguage is a must. I'd be lost without it.
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My next mod will be adding a pot in parallel with my intake air sensor and coolant temp sensor. I will be raising the temp reading to the ecu, allowing me to lean out a bit more and retard timing.
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Old 07-10-2008, 08:13 AM   #2
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So how much HHO are you producing per minute at how many amps?
Do you have any data to share on MPG before and after?

How accurate will your Scangauge be if you are using an EFIE and adjusting your MAP?

I'd love to see some gas logs
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Old 07-10-2008, 08:40 AM   #3
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I would be very careful running the line close to extreme heat because of the explosive properties of HHO. I just posted this as a safety prcaution. I would also be interested in mileage results, because I am currently working on a HHO system.
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Old 07-10-2008, 11:18 AM   #4
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Autoignition temp of hydrogen is 1084F... folks who have EGT sensors in their manifolds see temperatures of between 1100 and 1600F, ergo I would tend to think it's a practical certainty that the hydrogen in that line will ignite, given a long enough time for heat soak. Don't know how long that will be, 2 hours on the highway??? 30 mins sitting in traffic???
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Old 07-10-2008, 11:56 AM   #5
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Isn't the stuff burned in the engine pretty soon after it's made? How hot is it going to get on the way there, even with that heat exchanger?

Though I imagine one's effort is better used making a HAI than a fuel/HHO warmer.
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Old 07-10-2008, 02:05 PM   #6
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Well, he's transporting it quite a ways. But I don't think it's much of an issue because it's coiled near the exhaust and not on it.
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Old 07-10-2008, 09:16 PM   #7
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i have the coil going from the outlet of the bubbler under the hood going to the coil above the exhaust then to the intake. do you guys think this is bad????
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Old 07-11-2008, 02:50 AM   #8
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the gasses in the exhaust manifold run between 1100 and 1500 degrees the surface temp rarely exceeds 1000
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Old 07-12-2008, 03:23 PM   #9
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um just to state the obvious. You have a plastic hose connected to a hose of copper which could heat up to close to 1000 degrees? won't this cause the hose to melt? I just noticed because I had one of my cells short out once and it caused the bubbler hose to melt. Other than that it looks freakin awesome! That couldn't have been cheap though, I thought you said you thought it was relatively inexpensive? I know that this works on my car but I don't readily suggest it to anyone else because I've herd it all depends on the car you put it or (or i suppose how much you are willing to mess with the ecu or how much your ecu does to begin with).
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Old 07-12-2008, 03:39 PM   #10
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Quote:
Originally Posted by philip1 View Post
the gasses in the exhaust manifold run between 1100 and 1500 degrees the surface temp rarely exceeds 1000
Depends on the vehicle. I can remember once Rusty was running hot. I raised the hood and the exhaust manifolds were glowing orange! I didn't even want to shut him off it was so hot. I just rolled down the windows, put the heat on high, and let him idle for 20 minutes before I shut him off.
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