Project code name Cheese Wedge

[benfrogg]

I'd be very tempted to instead update your controller, swap to LiFeP04 batteries (which would reduce the battery weight by 70%!!!) and add a few more banks of the same batts. The reduction in weight and extra packs would probably double your range and acceleration/top speed. You'd need a new charger too, but otherwise, it would be quite straight ahead.

Good luck!
B

[GasSavers_Erik]

Originally Posted by BEEF

I thought also in states that don't do emissions testing that they still check to make sure that the emissions equipment is present. not necessarily functioning but present and accounted for.

there again, I will say that I don't know much about minnesota's rules.

In IL and KY, there is no emissions testing or inspection for those in rural areas.

In KY, the only time that there is any type of inspection is when you buy an out of state vehicle and need to get the title changed to KY. That "inspection" is simply a police employee (not an officer) verifying the odometer and windshield serial number- they never open the hood.

[GasSavers_Erik]

I could see how the longer wheelbase of the craigslist car would greatly improve stability at 60 mph- maybe you could do the same and make yours into a 4 seater

[hondaguy72]

The thought was to stretch the wheelbase for stability as stated and keep the rear for utility. I would have used an s-10, geo tracker, or samurai rear end and swapped in a heavier duty motor either electric or diesel. Electric direct drive would be the simplest as reverse wouldn't require any sort of transmission with the low weight, just reversing contactors.

This citicar I've acquired is cheap and small enough for me to keep it long term. Hopefully battery technology will continue to improve and become cheaper. My ideal electric motor choice would be a netgain transwarp7. From what I've seen and heard from the manufacturer is that they have monster torque for a 7" and they like to spin. With 144v and 500a of power the car would be a real performer, easily doing 60mph, probably more like 75mph within the motor's rated rpm range.

[hondaguy72]

Originally Posted by benfrogg

I'd be very tempted to instead update your controller, swap to LiFeP04 batteries (which would reduce the battery weight by 70%!!!) and add a few more banks of the same batts. The reduction in weight and extra packs would probably double your range and acceleration/top speed. You'd need a new charger too, but otherwise, it would be quite straight ahead.

Good luck!
B

I've thought about just updated the battery and electronics in the car, but the stock Terrell differential and GE 6.7" motor are not up to the task. The weakest point in the car is the motor/brush/brush plate setup. The stock contactor controller would cook the brushes and burn up the brush plate due to no real current limit being placed on the batteries. In addition, the 40mph the car was originally rated for was at the motors peak rpm of 5k. I wouldn't want to spin that golf cart motor any faster than that.

If I were to just restore the car and update the controller, the car would be speed limited to around 40-45mph, which just does nothing for me as I live in a fairly rural area with most roads having a 50-55mph limit. I would be restoring the car to sell it.

My feelings are that a large part of safety is not impeding traffic while driving.

[hondaguy72]

The project will be in my possession tomorrow!

[IndyFetch]

cool beans!

[hondaguy72]

I've been secretly working on the Citicar. The full game plan has changed as my father will be using the car for a very short commute to the dog park, so the car will stay pretty stock for the time being. It will remain electric, so mpge should be closer to 150/200. Hopefully I can provide some of you some motivation to work on your own projects.

The chassis has been away from me at my parents, so I don't have pictures to provide of that at the moment, however I have the body panels and have been diligently working on restoring them. They came to me in pretty poor condition with all sorts of cracks and breaks. Some are even in multiple pieces.

This should be one piece, not three and not missing a chunk:



This one should be the entire front and top of the car. It is only most of the front.

[hondaguy72]

Here's how to repair a plastic panel with plastic:

1.Sand off anything that isn't plastic, like paint or adhesive.
2.Get MEK from the hardware store
3.Buy ABS sheet from your local supplier of plastics (grainger had sheets)
4.Do the following:

Align:


Cut a patch and heat form with a heat gun if necessary:


Use a disposable paint brush and work the surface with MEK until sticky. This happens very quickly. Clamp the surfaces together:


The panels bond fairly well within a few minutes, but take a few days to fully cure. New sections can be easily heat formed and patched in.

Once it's all cured you have a base to work with


To fill cracked sections on the top side mix scraps of ABS with the MEK in a glass jar, like a pickle jar with a lid until you get a paste the consistency of honey. You can just let the chips sit in the solvent for as long as you would like with the jar lid on. Sitting, it takes about 4-6 hours to melt. This paste can be used by drizzling it into the cracks. The paste takes the same 2-3 days to fully cure as the panel bonding method. Once hardened it can be sanded smooth. I'm looking for a very nice finish and the paste is rather porous. I'll be using a special SEM brand flexible body filler to complete the repairs on the panels prior to painting. More to come later!

[VX_Arky]

Chris this is awesome! Please keep updating this thread!!! It's been two weeks! What's the latest????