Realize the full Performance/Economy Potential of a Honda Civic VX

[imzjustplayin]

Is it possible to use a 4 wire O2 sensor with your current ECU? Also do you know about the differences between the D15B(jdm) and the D15B(D15Z7)? Cause I was looking on craigslist and I found a D15B ECU, but they said it was a P07 OBD-I, I thought this was an OBD-II engine? Is there a difference? I'm asking this because of this thread: http://www.d-series.org/forums/showthread.php?p=1234687

How difficult would it be to have this engine pass Emissions testing? Cause I was thinking that if the JDM ECU wouldn't pass emissions due to different OBD-II wiring hookup, I could swap the ECU with another ECU just for emissions testing every two years.

[suspendedhatch]

You're still not paying attention to the very basic tenets of this thread. I have an AEM EMS. I have an AEM UEGO. I can use whatever O2 sensor I feel like using or none at all.

[tapedshoes]

thread

Im new around here, but the concepts are not. Im running a fully programmable ECU in my '79 volvo (megasquirt), and tuning for max economy.

Would you care to share your AFR tables, or detail them? Although there are differences in our engines, it would be great to have something ballpark to work with, as I'm always looking for what worked well for other folks.

-AJ

[fibonacci618]

would you think any engine importer who knows about the tripple stage vtec (a popular importer over here in NC was Japan Direct, and the owner 2 years ago was unaware it even existed) d15b will also know to call it a d15z7?

if i buy this engine and keep it all stock--no tuning--and swap it into a 96+ then are you sure that it uses the same exact 02 sensor that the VX uses? that'd be nice to know rather than getting an 02 code and be up sh*t's creek.

i concede, near 38 mpg for a high hp all motor sohc with you stepping on it all the time is very good! my 98 DX sedan just got a record 39.5 mpg on my last fillup and that is with hardly any WOT city driving.

i am glad you explained the myths of these gas saving habits b/c i did not know about how the FI's shut down when one gets off the gas pedal, until the rpm's go low enough and then it switches back to idle. i predicted my car would get best gas mileage when it got warmer, so long as i wasn't using a/c, but 39.5 mpg?! perhaps me getting off the throttle completely when i saw i was needing to slow down anyway, as opposed to putting it in neutral like i used to always do, helped all that much more.

as for old cars, i did strip the carpet in the VX and took out all seats, replacing it with a clean EX seat from an EG. i then cleaned it top to bottom, but i predict mold spores were still under the dash and heater box like you pointed out. even if i were willing to strip the dash (i've never done it and don't exactly love doing things i've never done before, especially after all the work i did up to that point), there still will be spores trapped in the air vent from where air recirculates. i reckon even the air ducts and tubing are removable and replaceable, but i do not know how difficult this is. perhaps you can comment.

are jdm d15z1's readily available? i'd maybe like to stick one in my 95 Civic LX sedan and eventually put the d15z7 into my 98 DX sedan.

thx

[monroe74]

Originally Posted by fibonacci618

there still will be spores trapped in the air vent from where air recirculates. i reckon even the air ducts and tubing are removable and replaceable, but i do not know how difficult this is.

I once had a vehicle with a terrible odor problem. After trying various things that didn't help, I found something that did: http://www.topoftheline.com/odbomairvens.html

Cheap, fast, easy, effective.

I know this sounds like a commercial, but I'm really just a happy customer.

[imzjustplayin]

Originally Posted by suspendedhatch

You're still not paying attention to the very basic tenets of this thread. I have an AEM EMS. I have an AEM UEGO. I can use whatever O2 sensor I feel like using or none at all.

yeah, well about about this little gem:

Originally Posted by suspendedhatch

It would be MUCH easier to put a D15Z7 into an OBD2 car than into an OBD1. Running a couple of wires for the VTEC-E solenoid etc is no concern for me. I don't know what is so difficult about wiring that it intimidates people. With the right tools, the right supplies, and a little bit of practice, wiring is the easiest thing you will do in an engine swap. And yes, you absolutely need the P2J ECU. Although a D16Y5 ECU could conceivably work if you didn't mind not using the 3rd VTEC Stage

I was referring to THIS.

[suspendedhatch]

tapedshoes: I'm interpreting your request to mean that you would like to see my O2 Feedback Target AFR Table. My raw pulse-width table is so application-specific that it wouldn't be much use even if you had my same motor.

My O2 Target Table isn't quite perfect; it may never be. I make changes to it all the time. But it's far more advanced than any stock calibration (except maybe the federal P07 map?). It's important to note that the load values will vary from one car to the next, even very similar cars.

For each car, you need to map out the VE table. Fuel and Ignition will follow the VE table.

[suspendedhatch]

imjustplayin: I don't see any connection between your question and the quote. If you use a stock ECU, you HAVE to use the O2 sensor that goes along with that ECU.

"D15B" is stamped on MANY different JDM motors across each of the OBD generations. "JDM D15B" simply isn't specific enough. You will have to look at the engines for their tell-tale signs. If it has EGR, it's probably VTEC-E. The Y5 and it's equivalents look just like a Y8 but with EGR. The 3 stage has the two solenoids. OBD1 engines have the smaller, flatter intake manifold plenum. The OBD2 intake manifolds look like a buff arm.

Asking me if you will pass smog w/out telling me what your state requirements are is like me asking you if my team will win the super bowl w/out telling you what team. In general, if you perform the swap properly and use a stock ECU, run 91 octane (JDM motors have higher compression and thus higher NOx), maintain the motor and set the proper ignition timing, have the injectors cleaned properly (not "fuel system cleaner" which is nothing different than the detergents gas companies already put in the gas), then you'll pass smog. If you're in CA you MIGHT get caught in the visual inspection. I ran a OBD1 VTEC ZC for years when I lived in CA and although it always gave me problems with high NOx, no smog techs ever noticed it was a swap (requiring you go to the ref).

Although I feel like I may have a good idea about similar swaps, I am not comfortable giving advice because I haven't done it myself. You will always run into little hurdles. If you are not comfortable with fabricating a throttle cable bracket, running your own wiring, mixing and matching charcoal canisters, and generally just solving small problems w/out finding someone on the internet to hold your hand or sell you custom made parts on ebay; you should stick to the safe swaps or the stock motor.

[suspendedhatch]

Originally Posted by fibonacci618

would you think any engine importer who knows about the tripple stage vtec (a popular importer over here in NC was Japan Direct, and the owner 2 years ago was unaware it even existed) d15b will also know to call it a d15z7?

On the rare chance that you find one that knows what a 3 Stage VTEC is, then no, they wouldn't call it a D15Z7 unless it came from a country that actually has that stamped on the block.

if i buy this engine and keep it all stock--no tuning--and swap it into a 96+ then are you sure that it uses the same exact 02 sensor that the VX uses?

No, it doesn't use the same O2 sensor as the VX. My motor came with a standard one-wire O2 sensor while the VX federal came with a wideband aka 5-wire and the CA version came with a heated aka 4 wire O2.

Whatever O2 sensor you use is dictated by the ECU.

i am glad you explained the myths of these gas saving habits b/c i did not know about how the FI's shut down when one gets off the gas pedal, until the rpm's go low enough and then it switches back to idle.

I was very disappointed to see that in the FAQ over at Ecomodder.com, DFCO is listed near the bottom for preferred ways to approach a stop for saving gas. They put this below neutral coasting. It goes without saying that I will not be visiting that site again.

*** mold spores

You don't have to remove the dash to clean out the heater box. But you would have to if you wanted to remove the air tubes.

are jdm d15z1's readily available? i'd maybe like to stick one in my 95 Civic LX sedan and eventually put the d15z7 into my 98 DX sedan.

Yes and no. Companies that import performance Honda engines wont have them and wont want to get them ie hmotorsonline. They'll laugh you off the phone. Most importers wont even know what a stock VX motor is. But if you search and you can recognize a Z1 from a picture, you wont have any trouble finding one.

If you have an OBD2, get a Y5. If you have an OBD1 and can get a P07, get the Z1. It's a mistake to believe that the Z1 gets better mileage than the Y5. It doesn't. When you take into account all the increased load of the 96+ chassis, it's plain to see the Y5 gets the same mileage but better power. In fact it should get better city mpg especially; but I don't have any hard numbers to prove it.

Don't get a Z7 unless you have the P2J ECU or a real standalone and someone that can tune it. 99% of the people calling themselves tuners would not be able to set this engine up and running properly, let alone get any real performance from it. And they're only able to get other motors up and running using a base map and some tried-and-true techniques. Nothing about this engine is tried-and-true.

[101mpg]

Getting out the leaves and junk as suggested is a good thing.

Here's something else I found for removing mold - spray Lysol or your favorite mold killer into the air intake for the heater, (NOT THE AIR INTAKE FOR ENGINE!) fixes it up nicely. Had a vehicle that would have taken a week to take apart and put back together with some musty smell - four applications of Lysol and it was good as new!