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Old 10-08-2008, 07:10 PM   #11
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I went through a near-restoration on my VX after I bought it too.

http://honda-tech.com/zerothread?id=1994784&page=1

With many 1/2 wit mods. and 238k miles mine needed a lot of attention too (though it did run well and had new paint).

Even now a year later I manage to keep the engine bay shiny clean (hard to do with it being my daily driver) minus a valve cover which likes to leak due to a cheap gasket on it.

Good luck with your restoration! Something I didn't do was strip and repaint my wheels. Hopefully in the future I will too.
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Old 10-08-2008, 10:13 PM   #12
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Thanks Dan.

More progress. Rear arms and struts are out, but bad news. All the bushings are completely shot and one arm looks just a little different than the other!


Looks like I'll be ordering a new set of rear lca's. Add it to my bill. At least the aluminum arms are lighter than the stockers by a couple pounds.

The color scheme isn't the keenest, but the products are quality. The Tein S springs are designed to work with stock struts, so the Tockico's should be fine.



Next up, front assemblies and rear drums blasted and painted, but that will have to wait until Friday night.
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Old 10-10-2008, 06:06 AM   #13
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I made a tool to take off my lower pulley bolt.

I often use two wrenches to remove stubborn bolts. One on the bolt head and one on the nut. I put a wrench on the bolt head and let it turn until it stops against something solid. Then I turn the other wrench to get the nut off. That's the model.

I had some 1" square tubing laying around, so I drilled two holes in it about as far apart as two of the holes in the lower pulley. I then took two approx 3" bolts and bolted them through the tubing and through the pulley. I turned the socket on the bolt head until the tubing met an immoveable object. Then I really laid into it. Works like a charm. You could use flat stock if you wanted to, but I don't think anything wooden would be strong enough.

Putting the bolt back on and torquing it is the reverse process. The bolts were a LOT the worse for wear, but straightening them with a hammer worked just fine for the re-do.

Hope that helps.
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Old 10-13-2008, 12:12 AM   #14
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damn gotta <3 that crank pulley bolt ..
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Old 10-15-2008, 08:45 PM   #15
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Well, I almost messed up. The transmission I picked up as a replacement was an LX trans, not okay. I've had some experience in going through these transmissions, so I'll go ahead and replace the ISB (input shaft bearing) which was making tons of noise. This probably isn't in the cards for most untrained mechanics. Opening the case I was very pleased to find very little wear and few shavings on the magnet. This car was obviously never driven hard. The synchros and shift forks are in excellent condition.


I've replaced one front strut assembly so far. Pictures will come when both are done. Thank god the lowering springs are so much shorter, as I have not found the correct tool for compressing the tiny springs on these cars. The lower mount isn't particularly willing to be removed from the strut as well. This may take longer than I hoped!
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Old 10-16-2008, 07:39 PM   #16
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If you still need it, I have a spring compressor that works with Honda struts that you can borrow. Just let me know and I'll get it to you. I will be leaving town for Sioux Falls Friday afternoon and return sunday though.
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Old 10-16-2008, 11:30 PM   #17
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Thanks, Tom. I'm just letting the stock spring let loose. The Tein spring is short enough to engage the nut without a compressor. I'd guess the front drop is a bit more than the advertised 1.5"
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Old 10-17-2008, 09:43 AM   #18
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Ok, then if you're doing that....place the strut/spring assembly between two wheels on the ground. Rim/tire (wheel) : Strut : Rim/tire (wheel) and then use the impact to loosen the strut nut as you stand on the wheels. This allows the assembly to come loose without the danger of the spring flying anywhere.
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Old 10-17-2008, 11:33 AM   #19
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Looking good can't wait to see how it turns out!
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Old 03-02-2009, 04:41 PM   #20
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I've actually started and moved the car to the far garage stall after reinstalling the driveline. She's running very nice minus not having an O2 sensor. I'm contemplating converting the assembly over to the much more affordable bosch sensor with the accompanying correct connector. The connector is available through VW. I'll be getting into the body work in short order.
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