I'm all for the trash to energy. You can use trash to create ethanol, a fuel for vehicles. Then take the remains and burn them for electric power generation, then take whats left over and I don't know... Can you make fertilizer out of it? I seem to remember my father sprinkling ashes from the wood stove on the ground before tilling the garden in the spring. I don't remember what that was supposed to do though. Anyway its taking stuff that would have been thrown away in a landfill and repurposing it 3 times, completely consuming the waste. Should be very economical and "green" too.
I'm all for the trash to energy. You can use trash to create ethanol, a fuel for vehicles. Then take the remains and burn them for electric power generation
then take whats left over and I don't know... Can you make fertilizer out of it? I seem to remember my father sprinkling ashes from the wood stove on the ground before tilling the garden in the spring. I don't remember what that was supposed to do though.
There has been considerable talk lately of recycling yard prunings and clippings as mulches and composts. Another source of recyclable materials is the ash from the fireplace or barbecue. At one time wood ashes were a chief source of potassium and much used in farming and horticulture. While not an important fertilizer anymore, gardeners with a supply of ashes often want to know if they would be useful as a fertilizer or soil amendment.
The answer is yes, if used appropriately. The benefits derived from ashes depend on your soil and the rate at which the ashes are applied. Generally, ashes contain potassium, a major plant nutrient plus a number of minor nutrients. Wood ashes contain all the mineral elements that were in the wood, except for nitrogen and sulfur which are lost through the burning process. Potassium, calcium and magnesium carbonate or oxide are present in comparatively large amounts giving the ashes a strongly alkaline reaction which can neutralize acid soils. However in soils that are already alkaline, high application rates can be harmful. A further compounding problem is that about 80 to 90 percent of the minerals in wood ashes are water-soluble, so that high application rates can cause salts to build up in soils, resulting in plant injury.
As a plant food, ashes contain 5 to 7 percent potassium and 11/2 to 2 percent phosphorous. They also have 25 to 50 percent calcium compounds. Hardwood (e.g. oak) ashes contain more potassium than those from softwoods (e.g. pine). If left out in the rain, because these nutrients are water-soluble, the ashes will lose their nutritive value. The less soluble carbonates which cause alkalinity will remain longer.
So how to use ashes? An average application is 5 to 10 pounds per 100 square feet, scattered on a freshly tilled soil and raked in. For a pre-plant treatment, it is best to apply ashes 3 or 4 weeks in advance of planting. They also can be sidedressed around growing plants or used as a mulch. A ring of ashes around a plant may ward off snails and slugs because the ashes are irritating to them.
In order to avoid problems of excess salinity or alkalinity, the applications should be limited to once per year. Avoid contact between freshly spread ashes and germinating seeds or new plant roots by spreading ashes a few inches away from plants. Ashes that settle on foliage can cause burning. Prevent this by thoroughly rinsing plants after applying ashes. Because they are alkaline, avoid using ashes around azaleas, camellias and other acid-loving plants.
Remember that ashes contain very little nitrogen, so your plant's need for this element must be met by other sources in a regular fertilizer schedule.
I've been dumping my fireplace ashes in a spot in the forest behind my house...I should check and see if anything is growing there. I haven't visited the spot in at least a year.
Anyway its taking stuff that would have been thrown away in a landfill and repurposing it 3 times, completely consuming the waste. Should be very economical and "green" too.
"Are you an extremely bored engineer who is ignorant of the law that says the accurate ethanol content must be posted on the pump?"
Maybe you should stick to trading options cause if you were as smart/intelligent as you think you are you would'nt have made that comment/post above, have'nt you heard the saying "No one knows your an idiot/ignorant if you keep your mouth closed, its when you open it and say something that proves it. Ding Ding you opened it, now the word is out!!!!!
Spend some time looking things up on the computer before commenting, or in other words look before you leap. I would hope that beiing an Options Trader you would know how to look into things before spending/speaking.
The law is state to state, every state stipulates it a little different, as in up to 10%, there is no exact published figure in my state. Also if your so nieve to think that specific gas vendors would follow the rules exactly to the T then who's the fool. Do a search and see that specific states /cities are selling gas with more than 10% ethanol, go figure.
Stick to Trading, your brain probably works better doing that, then trying to figure out what a person with a brain and the ability to use it, functions. Oh but the real ignorant people always think they are as smart or smarter then the intelligent people. Don't think about this to much it will mess up your day or well with the stock market tanking your days have all ready been messed up.
[QUOTE=theholycow;120468]This is contrary to every report I've read. Everybody says that E reduced their FE significantly.
Sorry, I skipped an explaination.
There are several reports that 20-30% E has the least FE hit. In my vehicles the 5-10% E that is available gives the WORST FE hit. I lose 10%+ FE. My Ranger GAINED 5-10% with 25% "E". 1991/2.9/man/2wd. That is a big differance.
E10 or less=23mpg max
87 reg= 27 max
Now the good and bad.
Sam's Club 87oct is 1% E today. Pump states "less than 10% E"--It is less.
Nampa Sinclair E85 is 99% E yesterday evening. The pump states "min. 70% E". Your gettin your E's worth today by golly.
Today is an easy fill, 5 & 15. It's not the same, EVER.
IMHO, if you don't test, you don't know jack. I mean it is frustrating, there is no logic to it. It's buyer beware, and good e'fin luck to ya. It is impossible to get consistant mpg/performance when the fuel QUALITY is never the same. Even new cars can't "learn" or adjust enough.
People should get together, test, make public this BS