Lots of articles regarding Acetone and Acetone Mixtures for Gasoline.
The ONLY Correct Acetone to use as a Fuel Additive is C.P. Acetone,
100% Chemically Pure Acetone.
The stuff you get at Wal-Mart, Hardware Stores etc has an additive to make it "Boom-Proof", it will not work properly as a fuel additive.
Sally Hansen Beauty Supply is an easy supplier at $20/gl + tx.
You WILL be asked what your plans are upon purchase, I predict soon that a license will be required, like when buying R-12.
Some industrial suppliers also offer 100% C.P Acetone but unless you buy in drums, the cost is higher than Sally Hansen.
Hope this helps confusion regarding Acetone, Xylene etc as fuel additives, the guys who used "Kleen-Strip" brand etc did not use the right stuff.
BTW, Xylene or Xylol can be obtained at any hardware store.
Re: The "Correct" Acetone for Automotive Fuel Testing
There is 100% Acetone and then there's C.P. 100% Acetone
The usual stuff has a additive, however small in molecular terms that makes it unusable for making C4 or whatever boom stuff the commies and others make for illegal purposes..
And YES, using it with Ethanol poisoned fuel, does have a minimal effect, using it on Alcohol free gasoline does have some positive effects..
2 of us old wrenches, [over 55] that are technically astute and have tools such as a/f ratio meters for carb'd vehicles,, have noticed some positive effects.
On older GM units, 92 4.3, 96 4.3, 2000 2.2L all exhibited the same effect using alcohol contaminated fuels.
More Power in High Gear w/Torque Converter Locked
Better Hill pulling power at partial throttle
Minimal Economy increase, we were not scientific enough to post, but a little gain.
There was NO obvious Improvement at WOT in any vehicle.
We did No GPS or electronic devices to monitor.
On a old 25hp Mercury Outboard, it started easier, idled with much less shake in the throttle handle..
We NOW have Alcohol Free fuel available locally and plan to do some lengthy testing.
I.E. ONE tank of fuel is not a test. Several tanks "averaged" out is ..
A positive point is the acetone did clean the injectors on each unit also on my Ford 2600 Gasoline Tractor it cleaned the carb so I don't have to run the choke full time anymore.
The Mixtures we used;
a small amount of synthetic 2-cycle oil, enough to "color" the mix
Ditto on the two cycle oil
In a one gallon container, we'd use about 1-tsp of 2-stroke oil.
I believe the Big Oil companies make the fuel just barely good enough to pass
And that some of the additives that were used a few years ago, can be replaced by some of these industrial chemicals.
Getting rid of Ethanol is the 1st step for quality fuel
Growing Ethanol takes FOUR BTU's for each One BTU produced [1 to 4 ratio]
Growing Bio-Diesel Costs One BTU for 4 BTU's produced [4 to 1 ratio]
These cost figures are why Big Oil and the EPA have mandated 2 bad things.
1. Requiring Alcohol added to Gas
2. Requiring Diesel Auto's to have the same particulate count as Gasoline cars
This requires the usage of the DPF on the diesel, some injectors shoot 5 shots per cycle, the last shot goes in with the exhaust valve Open, cleaning the DPF
Using Bio-Diesel stronger than 5 percent, causes a wash-down of fuel into the crankcase, we know whats next, seizure.
VW will void the warranty of any TDI engine that failed using B-10 or higher.
BTW, B-100 does not need a DPF,
per Thom Hartmann at FSTV and on LinkTV and other motor head shows